Travel feature: Matfen Hall in Northumberland - a welcoming haven of luxury and tranquility

The clientele on my visit was pleasingly diverse. There were couples, young, old, middle-aged, as well as families, some with young children, and locals popping in to enjoy afternoon tea served in the drawing room, just off the Great Hall. An excellent afternoon tea it is too – reasonably priced, generously portioned yet not overwhelming, and for someone like me who doesn’t have a sweet tooth, the emphasis on savoury delights is very welcome. Personal highlights were the free-range egg mayonnaise with chives finger sandwich and an Isle of Mull Cheddar cheese scone served with whipped chilli butter. I had the vegetarian version of the afternoon tea (delicious) but the meat eaters around me were very complimentary in particular about the pork, wholegrain mustard and black pudding sausage roll and the honey roast ham.

The hall has a fascinating history. Built over four years from 1832-36, it was owned by the Blackett family and it remained a family home until 1961 when it was leased to the Leonard Cheshire Foundation as a residential nursing home, caring for many residents over three decades. Then in 1999 former owner Sir Hugh Blackettt, the great-great-grandson of the man who built the Hall and who had inherited the property and estate in 1968, spearheaded a project to open the building as a 31-bedroom hotel. The number of bedrooms was increased to 54 in 2004 and then in 2020 the hall was purchased by Walwick Estate Group, launching a multi-million-pound investment and refurbishment programme. Reopened in April 2023, the Grade-II listed building now boasts 63 bedrooms and an enhanced visitor experience.

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The beautiful Great Hall has now become the main entrance to the building – which certainly works well in terms of creating a stunning first impression. The high-vaulted ceilings, huge gothic cathedral-style stained glass window, stone-flagged floor and walls hung with tapestries present a celebratory grandeur. Not surprisingly, it is a popular wedding venue. Perhaps one of the most impressive parts of the Hall’s restoration was the creation of The Cloisters Restaurant and bar. What was previously an outdoor courtyard has now become an indoor dining area with a stunning glass ceiling, bringing the outside inside. You can literally watch the sunset and the night draw in while you sit at your dinner table. The cuisine, overseen by award-winning head chef Ernst Van Zyl, is mouth-wateringly good. There are five dining areas in total offering everything from a la carte to light bites and sandwiches.

If golf is your bag, there is also a 27-hole Championship course - with a new clubhouse currently under construction – which my room looked out over. The rooms do feel extremely luxurious. Spacious, airy and very comfortable, they are a haven of peace and timeless elegance. Great attention to detail has obviously been paid in the refurbishment and interior design. The bathrooms feature deep roll-top baths and/or walk-in showers with top-quality toiletries by Penhaligon’s of London and the obligatory fluffy white towels and robes. You may never want to leave the tranquility of your room, but I would recommend visiting the spa, known as The Retreat, which is a relaxing place to really unwind. Matfen Hall was recently named as one of the top 10 UK wellness retreats and in The Retreat there are five treatment rooms, an eight-bed relaxation room, an aromatherapy suite, sauna and an impressive 15m pavilion pool with jacuzzi and steam room. There is an array of treatments on offer – I enjoyed a soothing 45-minute neck, shoulder and back massage.

If you fancy an activity – aside from golf – the hotel offers a range of them including a fun evening’s cocktail making (and drinking) workshop, a bespoke wine tasting experience and an estate tour. The weekend I was there the weather was sunny and spring-like, so I took a stroll around the charming village of Matfen and its lovely Holy Trinity church. You can venture further afield and take a look at the standing stones which are a short walk from the village. Visits to Hadrian’s Wall, only a few miles away, can also be arranged by speaking to the concierge who will be happy to organize chauffeur-driven transport.

There is plenty to explore within the Hall – lots of interesting nooks and crannies, including quiet places to curl up with a good book or play a board game - while the grounds include some enchanting gardens. You can walk around them yourself or book a guided tour from the head gardener. Northumberland has picturesque coastline and countryside aplenty, offering a peaceful getaway but if you are craving some big city excitement and entertainment, it’s only a half hour journey to the heart of Newcastle. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at Matfen Hall. Everything about the experience was first-class – the surroundings, the welcome, the service, the food and drink. It really is the perfect place to treat yourself to a bit of luxurious tranquility.

Matfen Hall, Country Hotel, Spa and Golf Estate, Matfen Village, Northumberland

To book telephone 01661 886500 or visit matfenhall.com