Aldwark: The Yorkshire village with a historic bridge that still takes its toll

It has a vast flat hinterland of arable and pig farms, separated by oak trees and hedgerows, and while there are well-stocked community-focused stores in Tollerton to the east and Great Ouseburn to the west which are popular with Aldwark residents, those wanting a supermarket or other shops face a significant round trip.

The lack of public-oriented buildings ensures the village a tranquil setting. The pastoral nature of the area spreads along Main Street, with pantile roofed properties boasting large front gardens, some with mature trees.

Modern detached executive-style properties overlook the village's eastern entrance and neatly presented 20th century homes dominate either side of the lane leading through the L-shaped village.

Exceptions include the late 18th century Beechcroft Farmhouse to the east, fashioned from pinkish-brown local bricks, an industry that continues nearby at Alne.

To the north-west of the main thoroughfare stands Woodholme Farmhouse, which could be the oldest house in the village, dating to the early 18th century and the western end of the built up village features a working farm.

Opposite the farm there's St Stephen's Church, framed by walls banded red brick and sand-coloured cobbles and gateposts with stepped pyramidal caps.

The Victorian church features alternating courses of red brick in herringbone pattern. Perhaps its most distinctive feature is its small scale two-stage tower with a low spire which rises up north of the nave rather than from the centre of the building.

The heart of the village appears is centred around the well-used play area and the Aldwark Arms, which was put up for sale earlier this year, with the owners citing the ten-month closure of nearby Aldwark Bridge in 2023/24 as the most significant factor in their decision.

When the bridge is closed the only ways of getting from the Aldwark to the Great Ouseburn side of the river is a 22-mile diversion via the York Outer Ring Road Ouse Bridge or a 20-mile journey through Boroughbridge using its ancient River Ure bridge.

However, those travelling via Boroughbridge also have to cross the River Swale at Thornton Bridge, near Brafferton, which in recent years has become impassable due to flooding.

For children living in Aldwark, the nearest primary school is about a mile away in Great Ouseburn, but when the bridge is closed they face a 40-mile round trip to and from classes.

Separated by a narrow hedge-lined lane from the village, Aldwark Bridge is better known than the village it is named after due to it being among only eight privately-owned bridges in England.

It is thought to have been used as the first crossing of the Ure north of York since ancient times, at the junction of roads leading from Easingwold and York, some of which can become deluged when the river rises above 2.50m. In September 2019, the river at Aldwark reached a record 5.17m.

Forming a pivot for the transportation of lead, lime and coal and farm produce, the river and landing continued to be used commercially well into the 20th century.

Until the mid-18th century the only way to cross the River Ouse at Aldwark was by ferry.

However, in 1768 John Thompson of Kirby Hall gained Parliament’s consent to construct a bridge, in exchange for collecting tolls, for which he would pay no tax.

Although to this day no taxes are collected on the tolls paid on the iron-framed bridge with timber decking that rattles as vehicles pass over it, August saw the Transport Secretary approve increasing the toll for cars from 40p to £1.

The approval followed a two-day public inquiry which heard more than £700,000 had been spent on repairs before last year's reopening and its annual maintenance and wages bill was £92,000.

The former Aldwark Mill building beside the toll bridge and two large fields alongside the river are a hive of activity through the summer months, having been transformed into the Scouts' Aldwark Water Activity Centre almost 60 years ago.

The base accommodates up 60 people in dormitories and 300 campers and providing activities such as kayaking.

Much of the land between the village and the bridge comprises Aldwark Manor, a huge, but elegant country house commissioned in 1865 by Lord Walsingham as a wedding present to his eldest daughter. Extensive craftsmanship through the building meant it took five years to complete.

According to the Yorkshire Gardens Trust most of the original parkland remains in tact on the site, the north part of which was the site of a moated medieval manor. It was used later used as a sporting estate.

The property was requisitioned during the Second World War for the Canadian airmen, based at nearby RAF Linton, where Prince William stayed while undergoing flight training.

It has been reported Wing Commander Guy Gibson planned the Dam Busters raid while staying at Aldwark Manor.

The building later served as a school for young offenders before it was transformed into a country house hotel and golf course featuring some 63 types of tree.

Aldwark Manor was bought six years ago by a local family business which has overseen a £15m transformation of the golf course, opened a Winston Churchill-inspired fine dining restaurant and recently relaunched its spa after a £12m makeover.

The grounds also feature a large boulder known as the Conjuring Stone near a noticeable dip in the lane to the bridge called Hollow's Hole, which over the centuries has been linked to witches and a troubled ghost, whose spirit is said to have been exorcised and trapped under the rock.