Yolk Farm and Minskip Farm Shop, Boroughbridge: Why farming has to reconnect people with the land and transform food culture
The farm retailing industry must shift from focusing on agricultural policy to helping transform food culture and reconnecting people with the land, the leader of a network of farm shops, farmers markets and pick-your own businesses has told a conference.
Weeks after hundres of members of the farming community protested in Thirsk, York, London and elsewhere to highlight financial pressures facing the industry, including concerns about farmers receiving a fair price for their produce, the Transforming UK Food Systems Conference at the University of York heard about the “huge challenges” facing agricultural ventures in remaining sustainable.
Chair of the Farm Retail Association Emma Mosey, who runs the award-winning Yolk Farm and Minskip Farm Shop, near Boroughbridge, with her husband Ben, said after buying the farm shop with 6,000 hens and selling eggs to supermarkets, it soon became clear the model was not sustainable.
The pressures have led to them opening a restaurant, a place where people could truly experience the farm-to-fork philosophy and adding a dog walking field, a play barn, some commercial lets and this year will see a children’s nursery added to the farm.
The conference heard the diversification had not only improved the Mosey’s financial resilience, but also created a thriving hub for the local community, a place where people can come to relax, learn, and connect with nature. Emma said: “We live in a world where 85 per cent of our shopping is done in supermarkets. Our urban population has exploded – 85 per cent of people now live in cities– while our rural population has shrunk dramatically. This disconnect has profound implications for how we view farming.
“Farming is incredibly challenging. Supplying supermarkets often means low prices, squeezing margins. We face the constant pressures of inflation, unpredictable weather, and incredibly low returns - the average farm operates on a profit margin of just 0.5 per cent. We have diversified away from traditional farming for this reason. After the Budget of October 2024, farming is about to get a lot harder too, with the cost increases on businesses and the inheritance tax reforms.
“We spend more on leisure and culture than we do on food. In order to truly transform our food system, we need to understand what motivates people. We need to tap into their desire for connection, for experiences, for a deeper understanding of the food they consume. Sixty per cent of our diets are ultra-processed. This is a national health crisis. We need to make healthy choices accessible and appealing. We, as an industry, need to shift our focus. TUKFS should be about more than just agricultural policy. It needs to be about food culture, about reconnecting people with the land, about making healthy, sustainable choices the easy choices. Simply producing food is no longer enough. We need to understand what consumers truly value – transparency, sustainability, connection. By embracing innovation and adapting to the changing needs of our customers, farmers can not only ensure their own success but also contribute to a more sustainable and resilient food system.”