'For 100 years M&S fashion has been part of everyday life': Marks & Spencer’s London Fashion Week debut and Leeds M&S Archive celebrations

Taking place on Friday at 12 noon, this is not just an LFW runway, this is an M&S runway, live-streamed directly to customers watching on M&S.com and social media channels, using “Live Shopping" software, so viewers can click and buy the clothes and accessories worn by models directly off the digital screen in real time, and straight after it finishes, in M&S stores and online.

“This is a special moment,” says M&S chief executive Stuart Machin. “For 100 years M&S fashion has been part of everyday life and now we will showcase our designs on fashion’s global stage.”

Marks & Spencer was famously born in Leeds in 1884 when Michael Marks opened his Penny Bazaar stall at Leeds Kirkgate Market, selling haberdashery. In 1894, in partnership with Tom Spencer, the first proper store opened in Manchester, and in 1904 the first permanent shop opened in Leeds.

When M&S became a public limited company in 1926, it transformed its penny bazaars into high street stores, introducing the Drapery and Womenswear departments and its very first brassiere.

To coincide with London Fashion Week, the M&S Archive will host Fashion on Film on Wednesday (September 16, 2026), as part of the UK-wide Heritage Open Days. This is a free, drop-in movie showcase from 10:30am to 3:30pm, with a compilation of M&S fashion historical clips, adverts and internal archive films – and there is no need to book.

Back to the future, and earlier this month, I went to the London press launch of the M&S autumn/winter 2026 collections for womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, home, beauty and Christmas.

Womenswear, featuring Autograph, Per Una, Goodmove, Jaeger and M&S Collection, was at the heart of this rather gorgeous showcase, with a circular display of mannequins wearing key looks for autumn, most destined for front-line display the next day day in M&S stores up and down the country.

There was a taupe-ish relaxed yet impressive double-breasted suit with chisel-toe flats; a sporty navy satin blouson jacket and miniskirt co-ord; a Claudia-esque ensemble of charcoal knee-length pleated skirt with white shirt and fluffy fitted grey jumper and black knee-high boots; and a chocolate satin cowl-neck dress under a matching toned long tailored coat.

A little further into the room, I fell head over heels for a Jaeger silk dress in a red, white, black and gold print. A matching silk scarf tied in a jaunty cowl about the neck, it hollered Vivienne Westwood to me, and I knew I had to have it.

This season of fashion is all about layers of rich texture - leathers, satins, silks, refined knits, faux furs, wools - and languidly smart tailoring, plus power outerwear.

It’s elevated but practical, with hybrid working wardrobes to adapt for office and home. Brown trousers are outselling black in some styles, and browns, greys and navy are key grounding neutrals.

Barrel jeans and trousers are still everywhere (sigh), as are blouson and Harrington jackets that work with everything.

The LFW outing follows the first M&S Summer show from Ibiza in May, and July’s world-first F1 pit lane catwalk at the Silverstone British Grand Prix.

Not so very long ago, M&S was the object of criticism from many quarters for its womenswear fashion offer - too fuddy-duddy, too avant garde, it could not win. Those days are gone, thankfully (because it was sooo boring when M&S bashing was a popular national sport).

Credited with much of the undoubtedly impressive renaissance of M&S fashion is Maddy Evans, who joined Marks & Spencer (from Topshop) as womenswear head of buying in 2019, became womenswear director in 2022, and is now Director of M&S Woman, a role created last year to include lingerie. M&S is still Britain’s most trusted underwear retailer with a 40 per cent share (and much credit here to head of lingerie design Soozie Jenkinson).

You might have noticed the AW26 “Love That” TV campaign, fronted by an impeccably dressed, if slightly scary, Gillian Anderson as Chief Compliments Officer. She wears the aubergine Satin Shirt, £28 ... because nobody wears a silk shirt quite like Gillian Anderson.

Price consciousness is of prime importance. More than 50 per cent of the autumn collection is priced under £30, while 74 per cent of its outerwear pieces cost £70 and under, including trend-driving light padded jackets from £40.

More hero designs for AW26 include a Faux Fur Jacket (£70); Pinstripe Suit (blazer £85, trousers £46), and touches including accessories including from brooches (£14 - pin right through the lapel) to £30 bags and £28 ballet flats.

Denim and knitwear and key strands, with heritage checks and contemporary stripes, statement collars (love the detachable faux fur cardi), and seasonal colours burgundy, chocolate brown, camel, cream and vibrant reds.

British Fashion Council CEO Laura Weir says: “As one of the great icons of the British high street, and a valued patron of the British Fashion Council, M&S has played an important role in the nation’s retail and cultural story for generations.

“Its debut shoppable collection at London Fashion Week is a significant moment, demonstrating how heritage, innovation and accessibility can come together to connect exceptional British design with consumers in new and relevant ways. It is a powerful example of how fashion can inspire, engage and reach audiences far beyond the runway.”

M&S describes autumn as “the single biggest style moment of the year” - and I for one agree. As for that Jaeger dress, a few days later I headed to my Harrogate store and bought it, also ordering the scarf to go with. I keep bringing it out of the wardrobe just to look at it. This is a piece that, hopefully, I will be wearing for years to come, although I am determined not to keep it only for best.

Rewearing, after all, is always on-trend these days.

M&S will make its debut at London Fashion Week on Friday, September 18, 2026, at midday. Full streams and instant behind-the-scenes clips will be broadcast across the official M&S Instagram @marksandspencer and YouTube channels.

London Fashion Week runs from Thursday, September 17 to Monday, September 21,

The M&S Archive in the Michael Marks Building at the University of Leeds is hosting a series of events, displays and exhibitions throughout 2026 to celebrate this century of style.

The Archive Edit: M&S Fashion since 1926 runs from Monday to Friday (10am-4pm) plus the second Saturday of every month until December 12, 2026. Admission free.

100 Never-Before-Seen Items showcases pieces pulled from the deep vaults.

The Interactive Dress-Up Station is where visitors can try on replica and original archive garments, from 1960s shift dresses and 1970s ponchos to vibrant 1980s shell suits. Historical Artifacts is a space featuring rare vintage customer magazines, original clothing sketches, design mockups, and historic corporate photography charting the high street brand's evolution.

To coincide with London Fashion Week, the M&S Archive will host Fashion on Film on Wednesday, September 16, 2026, part of the UK-wide Heritage Open Days, a free, drop-in movie showcase from 10:30am to 3:30pm, with a compilation of fashion-focused historical clips, vintage advertisements and internal design films from their archive reels (complete with free popcorn and refreshments). No need to book.

https://archive.marksandspencer.com/events/fashiononfilm/

100 Years of Bra History Lecture (Friday, October 16, 2026): A lecture led by fashion researcher Lorraine Topper exploring the engineering and cultural evolution of lingerie, charting how M&S grew from introducing its very first brassiere in 1926 to offering dozens of structural styles by 1939.