See Mr Darcy's wet shirt and dresses from Bridgerton and Downton Abbey at Bankfield Museum in Halifax

Costumes from Pride and Prejudice, Emma, Downton Abbey and Bridgerton are centrepieces of Bankfield Museum’s new exhibition which, as curator Gemma Esvelt tells Yorkshire Post Fashion Editor Stephanie Smith, will appeal to lovers of history, drama and fashion alike.

Mr Darcy emerging damp and dripping after a cool lake swim on a hot summer’s day was a scene that turned Colin Firth into a sex symbol, but that “wet shirt moment” was not scripted, according to Dinah Collin, costume designer for the 1995 BBC series of Pride and Prejudice.

Male nudity was not permitted before the watershed. “Our way round this was for Colin Firth to be filmed three-quarter length wearing just the Irish linen shirt (copied from an antique original). which clung to the body,” she explained in the lot details for the shirt, which was auctioned last year as part of a sale by film and TV costume suppliers Cosprop.

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“The scene caused something of a sensation at the time and transformed Colin Firth from a respected classical actor to something of a sex symbol overnight.”

Saffron-yellow pelisse with feather hat. From Emma, (film, 2020) worn by Anya Taylor-Joy. Calderdale Museums collection; Mr Knightley. Grey denim overcoat, check waistcoat, linen shirt, linen stock, caramel breeches, worn by Johnny Flynn. On loan from Cosprop. Mr Darcy white linen shirt and camel breeches, over arm  - tailcoat, stock, waistcoat and riding crop From Pride and Prejudice BBC TV series, 1995, worn by Colin Firth. Calderdale Museums collection; Elizabeth Bennet cream silk dress with woven windowpane check pattern, curry-coloured spencer and brown silk bonnet, worn by Jennifer Ehle. On loan from Cosprop. Pictured with Gemma Esvelt, curator for Calderdale Museums. Picture: James HardistySaffron-yellow pelisse with feather hat. From Emma, (film, 2020) worn by Anya Taylor-Joy. Calderdale Museums collection; Mr Knightley. Grey denim overcoat, check waistcoat, linen shirt, linen stock, caramel breeches, worn by Johnny Flynn. On loan from Cosprop. Mr Darcy white linen shirt and camel breeches, over arm  - tailcoat, stock, waistcoat and riding crop From Pride and Prejudice BBC TV series, 1995, worn by Colin Firth. Calderdale Museums collection; Elizabeth Bennet cream silk dress with woven windowpane check pattern, curry-coloured spencer and brown silk bonnet, worn by Jennifer Ehle. On loan from Cosprop. Pictured with Gemma Esvelt, curator for Calderdale Museums. Picture: James Hardisty
Saffron-yellow pelisse with feather hat. From Emma, (film, 2020) worn by Anya Taylor-Joy. Calderdale Museums collection; Mr Knightley. Grey denim overcoat, check waistcoat, linen shirt, linen stock, caramel breeches, worn by Johnny Flynn. On loan from Cosprop. Mr Darcy white linen shirt and camel breeches, over arm - tailcoat, stock, waistcoat and riding crop From Pride and Prejudice BBC TV series, 1995, worn by Colin Firth. Calderdale Museums collection; Elizabeth Bennet cream silk dress with woven windowpane check pattern, curry-coloured spencer and brown silk bonnet, worn by Jennifer Ehle. On loan from Cosprop. Pictured with Gemma Esvelt, curator for Calderdale Museums. Picture: James Hardisty

The Cosprop Darcy Wet Shirt Costume sold for £26,000 and was one of several outfits bought by Bankfield Museum in Halifax, using money from financial donations.

Now the shirt and the accompanying breeches and waistcoat form the centre piece for a new exhibition at Bankfield called Costume Drama. In celebration of the 250th anniversary of the birth of Jane Austen (and the 30th anniversary of the BBC’s Pride and Prejudice), Darcy and Elizabeth Bennet have been reunited, with the museum borrowing Jennifer Ehle’s outfit of a curry-coloured Spencer, silk bonnet and a Regency-style dress.

“These are the stars of the exhibition,” says Calderdale Museums curator Gemma Esvelt, adding that the dress is a lightweight silk with a window-pane check. “It was quite special to put on,” she says.

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At the Cosprop auction, Bankfield also bought a yellow pelisse worn by Anya Taylor-Joy in the 2020 film, Emma, directed by Autumn de Wilde, with costumes by Alexandra Byrne, and this is displayed with Mr Knightley’s costume, as worn by Johnny Flynn.

Gemma Esvelt with items from the film The King's Speech, the Duke of York suit and light brown overcoat with bowler hat, worn by Colin Firth. Designer: Jenny Beavan. Calderdale Museums collection; Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon Wedgewood blue dress and jacket with fur and matching hat, worn by Helena Bonham Carter. Princess Elizabeth gold dress with blue sash, on loan from Cosprop. Picture: James HardistyGemma Esvelt with items from the film The King's Speech, the Duke of York suit and light brown overcoat with bowler hat, worn by Colin Firth. Designer: Jenny Beavan. Calderdale Museums collection; Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon Wedgewood blue dress and jacket with fur and matching hat, worn by Helena Bonham Carter. Princess Elizabeth gold dress with blue sash, on loan from Cosprop. Picture: James Hardisty
Gemma Esvelt with items from the film The King's Speech, the Duke of York suit and light brown overcoat with bowler hat, worn by Colin Firth. Designer: Jenny Beavan. Calderdale Museums collection; Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon Wedgewood blue dress and jacket with fur and matching hat, worn by Helena Bonham Carter. Princess Elizabeth gold dress with blue sash, on loan from Cosprop. Picture: James Hardisty

Plus, it bought two outfits from Downton Abbey, including a tweed suit worn by Lord Grantham (Hugh Bonneville), now on display surrounded by appropriate period outfits selected by Gemma from the museum’s extensive stored fashion and textiles collection.

Gemma says: “I wanted to really create the atmosphere of the period of time that Downton Abbey was set in, and the series covers such a broad range of history, from the sinking of the Titanic up to the 1930s.

Bankfield also bought two outfits from The King's Speech 2020 film, with a fawn coat worn by Colin Firth as Bertie, Duke of York, later George VI, and a blue dress worn by Helena Bonham Carter as Elizabeth, Duchess of York, later the Queen Mother. “We've loaned in the two little princess dresses because you can't have mum and dad without the two princesses,” says Gemma.

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The auction buys sparked the idea of Costume Drama as an exhibition examining how film and TV uses history to create the outfits we see on screen. All the costumes and exhibits on display allow visitors to see the art of the costume designer and maker up close - a rare glimpse into their research, thought processes, insight and skills.

Gemma Esvelt, Curator for Calderdale Museums, with Lady Sybil Crawley's blue evening gown from Downton Abbey (season 1 and 2, 2010-2011). Worn by Jessica Brown Findlay. Designer, Susannah Buxton. Calderdale Museums collection. Surrounding ‘evening-wear’ costumes from 1912 to 1928. Calderdale Museums collection. Picture: James HardistyGemma Esvelt, Curator for Calderdale Museums, with Lady Sybil Crawley's blue evening gown from Downton Abbey (season 1 and 2, 2010-2011). Worn by Jessica Brown Findlay. Designer, Susannah Buxton. Calderdale Museums collection. Surrounding ‘evening-wear’ costumes from 1912 to 1928. Calderdale Museums collection. Picture: James Hardisty
Gemma Esvelt, Curator for Calderdale Museums, with Lady Sybil Crawley's blue evening gown from Downton Abbey (season 1 and 2, 2010-2011). Worn by Jessica Brown Findlay. Designer, Susannah Buxton. Calderdale Museums collection. Surrounding ‘evening-wear’ costumes from 1912 to 1928. Calderdale Museums collection. Picture: James Hardisty

One particularly beautiful dress is from the ITV 2016-2019 series Victoria, worn by Jenna Coleman. “It's two different types of fabric that have been sewn together in panels, and it's copied from an original that Queen Victoria wore for the opening of the Great Exhibition at Crystal Palace in 1851,” Gemma says.

There are two regal gowns celebrating screen iterations of Elizabeth I, a glorious red dress worn by Alicia von Rittberg in the Starz 2022 TV series Becoming Elizabeth, directed by Udayan Prasad, with the costume on loan from the designer himself, Bartholomew Cariss. Alongside is a gown worn by Glenda Jackson in the 1971 BBC drama Elizabeth R, for which costume designer Elizabeth Waller won an Emmy.

“The fabulous thing about this exhibition is that we have got something from only a couple years ago and then the 1970s,” Gemma says. “It is equally shunning, considering it would have been watched on a black and white tiny screen, in comparison to how we watch TV now. The material has been printed, and then the little orange pieces of lace have actually been glued on, so there were some really interesting little tricks that they did back then.”

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Gentleman Jack was filmed at nearby Shibden Hall and fans will find a selection of outfits worn by Suranne Jones and Sophie Rundall, designed by the brilliant Tom Pye.

At Bankfield Museum's Costume Drama exhibition, Gemma Esvelt with Lord Grantham's green tweed Norfolk suit, from Downton Abbey (ITV season 1, 2010), worn by Hugh Bonneville. Designer, Susannah Buxton, Calderdale Museums collection. Picture: James HardistyAt Bankfield Museum's Costume Drama exhibition, Gemma Esvelt with Lord Grantham's green tweed Norfolk suit, from Downton Abbey (ITV season 1, 2010), worn by Hugh Bonneville. Designer, Susannah Buxton, Calderdale Museums collection. Picture: James Hardisty
At Bankfield Museum's Costume Drama exhibition, Gemma Esvelt with Lord Grantham's green tweed Norfolk suit, from Downton Abbey (ITV season 1, 2010), worn by Hugh Bonneville. Designer, Susannah Buxton, Calderdale Museums collection. Picture: James Hardisty

There are also costumes from The Borgias and Bridgerton, which are some of Gemma’s favourites, although she also loves the yellow pelisse from Emma. “It gives this flavour of colour and brightness, and we're very lucky that we found a fashion plate that has the dress almost identical to the pelisse. It's a stunning bright saffron yellow and it's just so eye-catching.”

Gemma came to the UK from Perth, Australia five years ago to study Heritage Management at Queen Mary University, then worked at a museum in Wales before moving to Halifax five months ago. “I’ve always had a love for fashion history,” she says. “I enjoy making and wearing historical costumes (especially Victorian) and now I get the chance to look after a phenomenal collection of around 17,000 pieces of fashion and textiles at Bankfield Museum.

“This fashion gallery in particular is putting Calderdale on the map as a local and international cultural destination. We have lots of events planned.

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“My favourite item on display in this exhibition - at the moment as it does change regularly - is a bold pink gown from Gentleman Jack worn by Ann Walker. It’s a fabulous pink silk with those characteristic 1830s ‘leg o mutton’ sleeves, which I love.”

Costume Drama is a free exhibition running at Bankfield Museum, Halifax, until December 20, 2025, 10am-4pm Tuesday to Saturday and Bank Holiday Mondays. Alongside the exhibition there will be lectures, costume study sessions and behind the scenes talks. See https://museums.calderdale.gov.uk/visit/bankfield-museum and @bankfieldmuseum

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