Two inspiring walks taking in Yorkshire castles feature in a new book

Clifford’s Tower is all that remains of the larger of the two, perched high on its motte between the rivers Foss and Ouse. Uniquely shaped like a four-leaf clover, it may be lucky for some, but certainly not everyone.

York was not the only strategically important place in the country, so William the Conqueror and his descendants had a lot of castles to build – for which they needed funds. William invited Jews to England to lend him money for his castle-building, as Christians were not permitted to lend money at the time, and Jews were not permitted to do much else.

Towards the end of the 12th century, a wave of anti-Semitism swept through the country and the Jews in York took refuge in the castle. The castle was besieged for so long that they realised they would not survive.

Tragically, some took their own lives, and the others – having been promised protection – were massacred as they left. It is thought that 150 people lost their lives. Thankfully, York is a friendlier place today, welcoming visitors of all backgrounds.

A walk around York will help to put the castle in context.

From the train station, turn left to follow the river for a while before turning away towards Clifton Green and then to the right along quiet back roads and footpaths to the Museum Gardens.

Here, you will pass the ruins of an abbey, which was built by the Normans and fell into disuse and eventually disrepair as a result of Henry VIII’s Reformation several centuries later. To the right, the half-timbered Hospitium was the abbey’s guesthouse. The 92-year-old observatory at the exit of the gardens is far younger but still the oldest functioning observatory in Yorkshire.

Turn left out of the park, and you will soon arrive at York Minster. The first minster was burnt during the unrest following the Norman Invasion and rebuilt by the Normans shortly afterwards. What we see today is hundreds of years of building work after that, as well as the restoration work completed after no less than four major fires.

Next, follow Minster Gates, Stonegate, Coppergate and Castlegate to Clifford’s Tower.

After visiting the tower, cross the river and climb the motte of the second castle to follow the city walls back to the station. From here, there are fabulous views of the minster. Alternatively, add a riverside walk to the Millennium Bridge and back, with a view of the city’s flood gates as you cross the River Foss.

In contrast to the land-locked castle in York, Scarborough Castle commands attention from a lofty clifftop perch.

The original Norman keep is in poor condition, having been targeted during a British Civil Wars siege, but the castle walls are in good condition on the south side, creating a striking silhouette.

During the Napoleonic Wars, there was a large barracks in the castle. It is thought that is why German warships targeted Scarborough and the castle early in WWI. In an attack that only lasted a few minutes, 500 shells landed on the castle and town, causing more damage and multiple deaths.

The castle is larger inside than it looks from the bay, as it splays from a narrow entrance. Much of this area is now covered in wildflower meadow, but during the 19th century, it was used as a cricket pitch. In 1868, an Aboriginal Australian team played cricket here and demonstrated Aboriginal sporting skills.

The local paper reported that 4,000 people attended one of their shows – and that during one performance, a spectator was killed when the part of the cliff he was standing on collapsed due to coastal erosion.

A walk around the bays on both sides of the castle, with a visit to the castle on the way past, makes for a superb day out.

From the train station, head southeast to cross Valley Bridge and on to South Cliff, following the promenade high above the beach. To the south, you can see a break in the trees and a semicircular intrusion of land into the bay. This is the result of the landslide that destroyed the Holbeck Hall Hotel in 1993. The 60m high cliff is now 70m further inland.

From Holbeck Clock Tower, either work your way back through the gardens that adorn the cliffs, slowly reaching the seashore, or take a more direct route down for the opportunity to walk along the sand. Either way, you will be treated to stunning views of the castle.

From the harbour, head steeply uphill to the castle entrance. Once you have visited the castle and maybe had a cup of tea from its kiosk, take the path along the top of North Bay. Continue ahead until the path turns inland towards Peasholm Park.

Here, there is plenty to explore, and during the summer, the lake is home to Naval Warfare, a battle using model ships, replete with sound effects, smoke and aeroplanes. Follow the stream uphill away from the ponds to the end of the park, then head downhill and turn right to return to the station.

Whether you’re drawn to the dramatic clifftops of Scarborough or the ancient streets of York, walking these routes is a journey through time that excites the senses as well as exercising the legs.

Full instructions and maps for these walks and introductions to each castle can be found in The Walkers Guide to the Castles of Britain: 60 Inspiring Walks through Time by Julia Goodfellow-Smith, is published by Bloomsbury £20.