Albariño, Assyrtiko and Viognier: Here are some new refreshing summer wines to try according to our expert

While Sauvignon Blanc has become the go-to wine for an instant cold-shower for the tastebuds, there are times when the gooseberry and lime notes of some Sauvignons become almost too predictable, and the palate yearns for new flavours.

That is where grape varieties such as Albariño, Assyrtiko and Viognier can add a new range of aromas and flavours to your regular drinking, bringing the scent of summer to the table.

Here are a few suggestions.

Albariño

Albariño comes from Galicia in north west Spain, which is the region known as ‘green Spain’ on account of the weather.

Unlike most parts of Spain you may know from holidays, this area gets regular rain, the hills are green, and winter can be particularly blustery.

Albariño does particularly well in Rías Baixas, where it reaches its finest expression of flavours with fresh citrus with white peach, lemongrass and herbs.

Refreshing on its own, it settles around food remarkably well, the acidity is poised and fresh but doesn’t dominate.

Codorníu Albariño 2023, Costers del Segre, Spain, Co-op £9: This comes from Catalonia, made by Codorníu who make terrific sparkling wine as well as still wines. The style is bigger and rounder than many other Albariños, but it has bags of peach and nectarine flavours, with a clear fresh finish.

Finest Viñas del Rey Albariño 2023, Tesco £11: This wine has been consistently good since Tesco started to list it several years ago. It has floral aromas with peach and nectarine flavours backed by crisp acidity. Perfect with a summer salad.

Esk Valley Artisanal Albariño 2022, New Zealand, Hic! down from £15 to £12.75: Albariño doesn’t only do well in Spain, it likes to travel too, and has settled into New Zealand, California and South Africa with ease. This New Zealand version from Hawkes Bay is particularly good for its tropical fruit aromas, peach and apple flavours with a rounded, elegant finish.

Mar de Frades Albariño Atlántico 2023, Rías Baixas, Spain, Tesco, £17: Why pay so much more for the same grape? Because this one has crunch, salinity and vivacity, all wrapped up in peachy lemon flavours. If there are oysters on your plate, you need this in your glass.

Assyrtiko

This grape probably originated on the island of Santorini, but now it is grown across Greece and has even travelled as far as Australia. Rapidly gaining popularity in the UK, it is loved for its fresh, crisp flavours that have a touch of sea-salt and a minerally crunch.

The Best Assyrtiko 2022, Greece, Morrisons down from £10 to £8.50 until 3 September: Remarkable value for money in this characterful wine with floral aromas, followed by fresh citrus and white peach flavours and a hint of spice amongst the crunchy finish.

Athlon Assyrtiko 2023, Greece, Aldi £8.99: There is a splash of Chardonnay in this wine, adding weight and fullness of flavour to the fresh, citrussy Assyrtiko. It comes from Macedonia in Northern Greece.

Lyrarakis Vóila Assyrtiko 2022, Crete, Field and Fawcett £13.95: From the Vóila plain in eastern Crete this is complex with citrus aromas, white peach and aromatic pear flavours finishing with a crunchy minerally character.

Jim Barry ‘The Aegean’ Assyrtiko 2023, Majestic £14.99 on a mix six deal: About a decade ago I walked through the Jim Barry vineyards and admired a few Assyrtiko vines struggling to survive. Well, they did survive and now there are lots of them, growing on volcanic soil in the Clare Valley. The wine is superb, zesty, minerally, lean yet balanced and persistent.

Viognier

Just 50 years ago there were only 11 hectares – that is an area of around 20 football pitches - of Viognier vines in the whole world. Those last vines were in Condrieu but were hardly sustainable and this historic grape was about to die out.

Now, after a concerted effort to propagate those vines, it is grown all around the world. Viognier is a grape with honeysuckle and floral notes, a rounded palate, nectarine and apricot fruit.

It has enough freshness to lift the palate while happily settling alongside a wide variety of foods, from a simple salad to a light curry sauce. It is a splendid grape for a summer evening.

Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier 2023, Chile, Sainsbury, down from £7.75 to £6.75 until 27 August: A great value Viognier with apricot and peach flavours and a freshness of flavour that goes well with light spicy dishes and with chicken salads, especially when there is fruit on the plate. ‘Bicicleta’ on the label refers to the vineyard workers who always cycle around the estate, in keeping with the eco-credentials of the company.

Laurent Miquel Nocturnes Viognier 2023, Pays d’Oc, France, Waitrose £9.99: This wine comes from a family enterprise that has worked the same land for eight generations. Made from old vines growing in the South of France, the grapes for this wine are picked at night to keep the natural freshness and flavour in the berries. This wine has elegance and flavour above its price point, with peach and apricot notes backed by lively freshness.

Chapoutier Alchemy La Combe Pilate Viognier 2022, IGP Collines Rhodaniennes, Roberts and Speight £16.99: When a bottle of Condrieu would break the budget, try this Viognier, made by the famous producer, Chapoutier, from vineyards close to the hallowed Condrieu area. It has a delicious balance of floral peachy aromas, with a palate that shines out with the taste of perfectly ripe nectarines, and a finish that is long, and deliciously fresh. Organic too.

Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier, 2022, South Australia, Latitude Wines £18.99: From the original site where the first parcel of Viognier cuttings was planted in Australia, this wine shows the freshness of the site and the age of the vines. It has depth of flavour, with complex layers of fruit, backed by a streak of citrus and a firm finish which make it a real joy to team with food.