Atlas at Rockliffe by James and Maria Close review: Pursuit of the best at restaurant in Darlington

So, when the invite dropped into my inbox to return and see what they have done recently, I was hardly going to refuse; Rockliffe and I have form. What they have been doing is immense: a multimillion-pound transformation, they claim, has turned it into a gastronomy-led, five-star luxury resort in the North East of England. But it was “gastronomy-led” that got me. I hear a lot in the restaurant world, and I had been nursing this little nugget for some time, but now it was finally real: James and Maria Close were ready to open Atlas at Rockliffe, and bookings were going live online.

If you aren’t jumping up and down at this news, I apologise. James and Maria were previously chef-owners of the acclaimed two Michelin star Raby Hunt in County Durham, the first in the North East to earn such an accolade. To everyone’s astonishment, they closed the Raby to become Culinary Directors of Rockliffe, creating six new dining and drinking experiences, including their new 36-cover fine-dining restaurant concept, Atlas, in a purpose-built building in the grounds.

Atlas is a 584sqm contemporary grey pavilion, sitting quietly in the landscape close to the Old Hall. Stepping through the large plain door, we entered another world. Staff were at the ready in the elegant bar and offered us a glass of Henri Giraud Esprit Brut in the tallest champagne glasses I have ever seen. Here, we chatted with Manuel Ghezzi, Head of Wine and Executive Head Sommelier, about our wine as we began our journey through the 14 plates ahead.

James and Maria’s menu is inspired by their global travels, by the countries and cuisines they love. We start here with Pintxo of a warm croissant filled with Ibérico ham and salty anchovy. We dawdle, enjoying the Champagne until we are gently nudged to eat it immediately, in one bite, while it's at its best. Art and food wait for no man, it seems.

Then into the restaurant we went. It takes a lot to silence me, but the restaurant itself is beautiful and spacious, and the evening light pouring in through its vast windows is lovely. But it is the kitchen that gets to me: not one, but three incredible Molteni stoves, I am told, custom-made to James and Maria’s specifications. At each stove, chefs work quietly and calmly all evening under James’s watchful eye. The former chef in me was enthralled by it all, right down to the pans they were using.

We enjoyed seven more small plates depicting James and Maria’s travels in this section of the menu, and though we are not hurried along, we often feel it best not to linger. Amongst these seven exquisite plates, our favourites were Gunkan from Japan: eel wrapped in nori, topped with foie gras. Peru’s offering was ceviche tucked into a half lime and topped with the lightest coconut foam. A Lomo a lo Pobre - quietly called poor man’s steak and chips - was so cute on the plate and utterly delicious, with wagyu steak, a tiny fried quail’s egg and the tiniest potato chips you will ever see on top.

Seriously, all the plates were superb, and choosing was hard as we ate our way through the freshest tuna, Cornish mackerel, a tiny tostada, tempura filled with red bream and mooli, and the silkiest ajo blanco. James is ferocious in finding the best ingredients, no matter what or where they come from. And it shows right here on each plate.

The second part of the menu was presented to us through beautiful black-and-white photos, with no menu. The first was La Rochelle, which I also love, represented in a bowl of soft potato, oyster and a handsome serving of caviar. Marseille was a distant nod to bouillabaisse, with sweet lobster, brill and a deep, red, flavourful aioli. Jura brought soft, tender quail with vin jaune and Parmesan. Then, from Japan and the Miyazaki Highlands, came unbelievably tender A5 wagyu cooked over binchotan coals, served with satay and Roellinger spices. Possibly the dish of the night.

The end came swiftly with a citrus palate cleanser featuring intense Japanese sudachi lime, before we reached Normandy: an elegant dessert with the flakiest pastry, caramel, vanilla ice cream and a generous swish of Calvados. And one last treat: the chocolate trolley, including Maria’s famous hand-painted chocolate skulls. I sat back and declared this was a tasting menu on another level, and believe me, I have eaten a lot of them in my time. I must not forget the exceptional flight of wines we also enjoyed, chosen with care by Manuel Ghezzi, with my favourite of the night being a Weissburgunder 2023 from Gump Hof M. Prackweiser, Südtirol.

The pursuit of the best is also clear in the team around James, most of whom came with him from the Raby, both in the kitchen and front of house. Plus, I must give a shout-out to the walled garden, with super-legend Ken Holland and his team growing the most gorgeous fruits, vegetables, herbs, etc., for the chefs. I had a look around, and it is enchanting.

Atlas marks a departure from what has come before at Rockliffe. Fine dining has always been in the Orangery here, and I think this move to a standalone restaurant is exciting and long overdue. Thanks to James, Maria, and the whole team throughout Rockliffe, not just Atlas, this will help move Rockliffe into the culinary league they've long wanted to be in. I think their time is coming. Watch this space.

Ratings:

Welcome – 5/5

Food – 5/5

Atmosphere – 5/5

Prices – 5/5

Tasting menu from £190 p/p, wine flights from £145.

Atlas at Rockliffe Hurworth on Tees, Darlington, County Durham, DL2 2DU