Black Swan Inn, Pickering: The historic Yorkshire pub which hosted Charles Dickens, Rex Whistler and a court house

Pickering, ‘Gateway to the Moors’, as the saying goes is full of surprises.

It’s a handsome, historic market town with more independent shops than chains and good cafes, but there are aspects of it that I keep discovering.

Despite time spent in the town down the years, it’s only recently I found the stunning medieval wall frescoes in St Peter & St Paul’s Church.

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I urge you to take a look next time you’re there - they’re one of the most complete set of paintings in Britain, created in the 1450s.

The Black Swan Inn in PickeringThe Black Swan Inn in Pickering
The Black Swan Inn in Pickering

They’re absolutely astounding – my jaw literally dropped when I saw them. Cancel your trip to Florence – it’s all here, on your doorstep.

After a pleasant dinner at the White Swan we wandered round town soaking in the racket from the lively bar next door and found peace in the Grade ll listed Black Swan just across the way.

It’s got an interesting past - it opened for business in 1740 primarily as a coaching inn, and horses and carriages could be rented by the day with stabling for passing trade.

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Notable guests included Charles Dickens and Rex Whistler, whose paintings can still be seen on the plaster work of some of the rooms.

Many significant events took place in the building; the current dining room once hosted Pickering Court House – today it’s a pleasant dining room with dressed stone walls and a big wood burning stove.

The beamed main bar is large, but cosy too, with corners to get lost in.

There’s a terrific line up of cask ales: Half Moon Old Forge Bitter and Dark Masquerade Mild, Coal Porter Porter and Pathfinder IPA from their own brewery, Breworks, Tim Taylor Landlord (absolutely on song) and North Riding Citra Pale. The wine offer is decent too.

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Food-wise, expect good pub grub which includes steak & ale pie, pan fried sea bass, homemade burgers and fish & chips of course.

There’s live music at weekends, nine rather glamorous bedrooms and children and dogs are welcome.

Welcome 5/5

Atmosphere 4/5

Drinks choice 5/5

Prices 5/5

The Black Swan, Birdgate, Pickering, North Yorkshire, YO18 7AL

www.blackswan-pickering.co.uk

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