Coopers of Helmsley: 'I live close to three Michelin-starred restaurants, but this local gem has the best sea bass I've ever tasted'

The Howardian Hills are truly stunning, and I am forever grateful I live here. Not that our house isn't without a few 'niggles’.

I remember the first rabbit I saw in my garden, and I thought it was cute; lately, I feel much less amenable when I see another recently planted bed that has quietly disappeared overnight.

Or, the estate agent who somehow forgot to mention the howling winds that fly through the valley; we have quickly learned that if Look North's Paul Hudson mentions the word breezy, for us, that means battening down the garden furniture. Despite these little foibles, we love it dearly.

I thought I knew this area before I came to live here, yet I now realise I had barely scratched the surface.

What I did know, of course, was the incredible food scene; though it wasn't my reason for moving here, it certainly was on my wish list.

In 2024, The Good Food Guide awarded the area the title of the Most Exciting Food Destination in the UK, and it was easy to see why.

I have three notable one-star Michelin restaurants in striking distance: The Star at Harome, Myse in Hovingham, and The Black Swan in Oldstead.

There's Pignut in Helmsley storming up the fame ladder with a Michelin Green Star and a clutch of other accolades and soon to become Pignut at the Hare; they are moving to Paul and Liz Jackson’s adored Hare in at Scawton, which we shall miss.

There's the Banks's Abbey Inn at Byland Abbey and the Plough at Wombleton and The Pheasant Inn.

However, my review today sets aside the stars and accolades.

There are restaurants, cafes, bistros, pubs, and hotels here in heaps, also contributing to making this corner of Yorkshire so loved. I have written about many of them in recent years, and here's another one I think you might like.

Coopers of Helmsley took over the lovely building on Bridge Street in the autumn of 2024, which, during my restaurant days, was home to the much-loved Gepetto's Italian for 18 years and, latterly, the acclaimed Bantam.

It is an enviable spot, just steps from the marketplace, with the once front entrance now on the pretty, pedestrianised street at the back.

Coopers is a family-run restaurant owned and operated by Tracy Cooper, who also serves as the head chef.

Tracy is no stranger to the area either; she lives in Helmsley and has worked extensively at a whole raft of renowned restaurants, including The Fairfax Arms in Gilling, Byland Abbey, Provenance Inns, and was the owner of the Hambleton Inn for close to 11 years, so she knows her stuff for sure.

Before I even set foot in the restaurant, I loved the menu at Coopers. It is carefully considered, quietly impressive, and not overpowering, with some cracking classic dishes jumping out at me.

I wasn't the only one impressed; when we arrived at Coopers, it was humming with activity. Along one long wall, several tables are pushed together for a big family party.

There are couples and groups of friends, and the only empty table is for two, tucked into the corner, and it's reserved for us.

They are on their toes at the bar and out front, for sure; we have the food and drinks menu, as well as the special board pointed out to us within a few minutes.

Just as quickly, the drinks arrive. If that sounds hurried, it wasn't; it was efficient, pleasant and helpful, which makes me think there's some serious training at play here.

As this is Sunday, there is the ubiquitous roast of beef, chicken or pork from renowned butchers R & J, and as they swish by to other tables, we are tempted.

But I’m already intent on a roasted vine tomato soup and bread from my local bakery in Hovingham (£6.95).

With the promised sea bass on the menu coming from the superb Hodgsons in Hartlepool alongside new potatoes and a caper and samphire butter (£23), that was me sorted.

Across the table, a duck and port pâté with focaccia (£9) and – surprisingly - a chestnut mushroom risotto (£16.95) seemed to make him as happy as me and check out those prices which I feel are astonishingly reasonable

My soup did not disappoint; it was smooth, packed with flavour, and had a perfect balance of acidity and sweetness.

The pâté was a textbook example, with its hint of port and the gamey, mineral edge of the duck excellent.

The onion compote added sweetness, and the focaccia had somehow morphed into sourdough, but we didn't care.

Only one teeny comment, though, was the messy pâté splattered ramekin, which spoiled an otherwise perfect dish.

Another well-executed dish, and one I have seen messed up more than any other, except perhaps a crème brûlée, was the risotto.

The mushrooms were plentiful and meaty, the risotto creamy and intensely flavoured, but the rice was just discernibly on the grainy side, but I am being very picky.

But the star of the meal is the sublimely fresh sea bass, with faultless cooking, fabulous flavours, perfectly cooked potatoes, and an exacting amount of capers to savour but not overwhelm. It's one of the best I have tasted.

Even the Coopers banoffee mess for dessert, though good, was eclipsed by it.

And, I have to say, every savoury dish we had was exactingly seasoned; it needed nothing added or taken away.

What a lunch we had with great food, service and a warm atmosphere; truly, what more did we need?

The stars may not be raining down on Coopers, but if today was anything to go by, do they need them?

It seems they have a great thing going without, and I, for one, am so happy they are on my doorstep.

Welcome 5/5

Food 5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 5/5

Coopers, 8 Bridge Street, Helmsley, YO62 5BG, Tel: 01439 770479