Curry in favour

There is the nationally renowned Aagrah chain, to the equally revered but basic Karachi Social Club, to recall its original name, in Bradford. The crumbling city also has what vegetarians say is the best of them all, Prashad.

There are lots more. Let me be invidious and name drop a few: vegetarian Hansa in Leeds. Then there is Akbar’s, which has spread its cheery cooking from Bradford to Leeds, York, Sheffield, Middlesbrough, Birmingham and Manchester, though I can only vouch for the Bradford restaurant.

This is rambling like an Oscar thank-you speech, so for those I have overlooked in my praise, my apologies.

How is it, then, that of all these, none gets listed in the traditional handbook of good eating, the Michelin Red Guide? Or, to put it another way, how is it that a demure “Indian” almost lost in a short parade of shops in Shipley, is the only Indian restaurant in Yorkshire to have a listing in Michelin? (It also lists Orchid, in Harrogate, which is pan-Asian).

These Michelin listings are the real deal, not a pay-to-enter operation as with some other guides. Like any “best of” list, there are curious omissions. Some of those listed above may wonder. Outside the county, too, there is a paucity of listings for Indian cooking. I will name but one gem, Gurkha’s in Balham – not listed, or, French and unlisted, the Bellevue Rendezvous in Wandsworth – one of the best meals I have had in years.

And Zaara’s? Who said the proof of the pudding is in the eating?

Off we went, a Saturday evening, table booked in advance, which was a good idea because it quickly filled with diners on first namers with Harry Khinda, the founder-proprietor and meeter and greeter.

Well, this was one of the lowest-key arrivals on my personal record. It was almost brusque in its business-like march to the table, lacking a smile or the courtesy of inquiring whether the table was satisfactory.

The room is ultra-smart and modern, with the street side all glass. Very nice, in fact. Three waitresses asked us in turn if we’d ordered drinks, so a bit of co-ordination amiss, and one of them was a trifle clumsy. Another had to go and ask what a particular recipe was – which suggests a lack of training. The £25 bottle of Côte du Rhône was poured without a tasting.

A basic entry in the Michelin Guide denotes good food at a reasonable price. Zaara’s kitchen turned out the food to support its accolade. Nothing we had was disappointing.

The menu is clearly laid out and easy to read and understand, and not overwhelmed with pages of options. Two tall pages cover the food and a third lists the drinks.

The first tastes were assuring. The popadoms were crisp and pleasant and the “chutneys” were lovely: mango, raita, onion, chili.

The mission statement at the top of the menu refers to “sourcing the best ingredients to ensure we cook the finest Punjabi food. We produce our own pannier, cook saga to a traditional recipe and we create our own sauces and chutneys”.

Zaara’s, like its Asian kin, makes to mention on the menu of where the food is grown or reared, and this is out of step with the locational information given in so many “English” restaurants in recent years. Where does the chicken peck, or the lamb graze? Does it matter?

I inquired afterwards by email and got this assurance: “We are proud to say that we support Yorkshire businesses as much as possible. Our lamb and chicken are bred in Yorkshire, at the Novia Farm in Yeadon. Milk which we use to make pannier and rasmali, comes from a local farm in Allerton, Bradford.

 “We purchase vegetables from Bradford’s Fruit and Veg Market. The market sells produce from all over the world but we specify, where possible, that we wish to buy produce that has been grown locally. Coriander, potatoes, carrots, cherries, apples, onions and tomatoes are examples”.

Masala fish (species undeclared) made a sizzling hot starter with onions and grand spicing. Pala papri chaat was, arguably, too cool – nice though. It looks like a plate of left-overs, with lentil dumplings, potatoes and chick peas and wafers smothered with yogurt, chilli and tamarind chutneys and masala seasoning.

Chaat tends to look a mess but, like this one, is usually a riot of textures and flavours. It makes a handy roadside snack in Asia, with stacks of nutrition from the mixture. In a restaurant it is a good appetiser. This one was too fresh from the chiller cabinet for my palate.

By now the room was full and a lull in the arrival of freshly cooked food was to be expected. Time to check the other diners – no signs of anything other than happy eaters. Dress code was smart casual.

Time to try the vegetable biryani, from a Hyderabad recipe with basmati rice, and enough garlic, ginger and chilli to give it a kick. At Zaara’s, it is served, unusually, with yoghurt and cucumber raita in place of a “curry” sauce.

The vegetables (or meats) and rice are presented as a pyramid – which looks smarter than the customary bowl. Wow, terrific and munchy, and, for me, just the right level of spicing (“hot”). The raita was soothing and refreshing but I missed the traditional sauce. Help was across the table, in the delicious lamb karahi, so there was a swapping of raita for curry sauce. The lamb was tasty, tender and well trimmed and delicious.

Indian puddings tend to be milky or syrupy. Zaara’s has developed a new take on samosas, serving them as a dessert with fruit fillings. The idea works, though the samosa pastry was not as light as expected. I would not have it again.

Prices are reasonable indeed. Starters from £2.95, mains around £6 and £7, rice from £2, 70p for a chapati, £1.20 for a roti, puddings from £2.95. Wine from £10.95 for white, red or pink. Glass: £2.95 for 175ml. Fizzy bottles from £16.95. Lassi £2.50. A nice touch is a children’s menu of Indian and Western favourites, all at £5.95.

Zaara’s, 34-38 Bradford Road, Shipley, Bradford, West Yorkshire BD18 3NT. Tel 01274 588114 and [email protected]

Open: Sunday-Thursday 5pm-11pm and until 12pm Friday and Saturday. Early Bird Monday to Thursday: two courses with half-a-bottle of wine £12.95 per person.