Exploring South Africa's top wines

As our own restrictions start to lift, I am keeping a close eye on the situation in South Africa. It might be a bit late for a winter flit, but Cape Town is in high summer right now and autumn there is long and deliciously warm, so that could be an option in a couple of months time.

Meanwhile I have been exploring some of the great-tasting wines that South Africa produces. The varied climates across the stunningly beautiful winelands means that there are the right soils and locations for many different grape varieties to be made into world-class wines.

South Africa is generally known for its good value wines, generally under £10, providing excellent everyday drinking. But skilled Cape winemakers make the most of their climate, soils and expertise to challenge the best wines in the world. Here are some of my favourites.

Old vine projects

South Africa has some of the oldest vines in the world. Why is that important? After all, yields fall as the vine gets older and it is much easier to rip out old vines and replant with new. But old vines could have special properties. Viticulturist Rosa Kruger, who has become the Indiana Jones of old vines in the Cape, believes that they represent a sustainable face of viticulture. “Their roots have gone down deeper, and spread out across the land, to make the most of whatever moisture is available in their particular location.”

These old vines produce just a few small bunches of grapes, but they are packed with unique and delicious flavours.

South Africa has the edge over other regions of the world which boast about their old vines. All Cape vine plantings have been recorded since 1918 and Rosa has taken on the task of finding these plots, encouraging farmers to bring them back into production and finding winemakers to make them into top wines.

There is a special heritage neck label which identifies wines made from old vines. Some winemakers use old vine grapes in blends to lift the character of the final wine. This means that they cannot use the heritage label, but the taste of the wine is more complex and deeper.

Kaapzicht Estate Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2020, Stellenbosch, Waitrose, £13.99: Made from 35-year-old vines, this has ripe melon and peach flavours, backed by crunchy apple, and just enough oak to round out the smooth finish. Perfect with pork.

The FMC, Chenin Blanc 2019, Stellenbosch, Roberts & Speight, Beverley, £29.99: From vines that are over 40 years old, made by Ken Forrester, who is generally regarded as the king of Chenin Blanc, this is a top-class wine, with baked apples, warm pineapple, honey, and a rounded, full texture.

Naudé Family Wines Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2015, South Africa, Handford Wines, £34.95 (0207 5896113): Not yet sold in Yorkshire, the Naudé range of wines come from Ian Naudé who is firmly committed to preserving and using old vines. The vines are 35 to 50 years old and the wine has been aged very gently in oak. It tastes extraordinary, with honeysuckle, warm, yellow apples, a hint of apricot and a cream texture on the palate.

Tesselaarsdal

In the 25 years I have been visiting South Africa and its vineyards I have noticed a distinct change in attitudes. There is diversity in all areas and while barriers take a long time to disappear completely, the story behind Tesselaarsdal shows just what can be achieved. At a tasting in the glorious Hemel-en-Aarde, I met Berene Sauls who was pouring a rather good Pinot Noir. Very quickly she told me this was her wine, and indeed it is. There is a long story about starting to work in a lowly job, then she was mentored and given opportunities at wine estate Hamilton Russell, and now Berene owns a vineyard, and makes wine. I have met her since on Zoom calls and her knowledge, confidence and ability to succeed is on a par with winemakers around the world.

She named her wine after the farming hamlet where she was born, a direct descendant of freed slaves who were bequeathed the land of the Tesselaarsdal valley by the widow of a Dutch soldier in 1832. Berene’s wine is becoming a cult “must have” in the restaurants of Cape Town and is in short supply. It has not yet reached Yorkshire, but it should do. It is so good, with supple, elegant flavours that it will shine on any dinner table.

Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir 2019, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, Handford Wines, £43.

Other Pinot Noirs

Newton Johnson Walker Bay Pinot Noir 2020, Hemel-en-Aarde, Harrogate Wines, £21.99: I don’t just like Newton Johnson wines because the family has a Yorkshire heritage, I like them because they are terrific. Full of black cherry fruit with hints of strawberries, a dusting of spice and earthy notes.

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2019, Hemel-en-Aarde, House of Townend, £39.99: Back in 1976 Tim Hamilton Russell was the pioneer of Pinot Noir in the Walker Bay area. Now Antony HR is in charge and the estate has expanded, but the key to this wine has always been its silkiness on the palate. It has all the right fruit flavours, balanced and precise, with a texture that will cradle grilled duck to perfection.

Other estates to look for

Vergelegen: Possibly in response to closed restaurants and a fragile economy, the entry level wines of this top-notch estate have become exceedingly affordable, but it is worth stepping up to the higher ranks for deep, more complex flavours.

Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2018, Stellenbosch, South Africa, Tesco, £10: This is the great-value end of the range. Smooth, silky cassis and blackberry fruit, edged with oak and ending with a long, meat-friendly finish.

Step up to the deep, concentrated Cabernet Franc/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend in Vergelegen DNA 2015, Roberts & Speight, £18.99.

Mullineux

Chris and Andrea Mullineux produce excellent wines, mainly from Swartland, but now in a partnership at Leeu Passant in Franschhoek. Start at the affordable end of their range with the Southern Rhone-style Kloof Street Swartland Rouge 2018, Bon Coeur, £15.40.