Fish and Forest, York: Elaine Lemm heads to the fourth incarnation of York restaurant - and isn't disappointed

I first met Stephen in the days of his pop-up Fish and Forest at Spark, the shipping container centre in York.

Then, at the second one, sometime in early 2021, at the Gillygate pub just outside the city walls, where, with just a few tables, he honed his craft and impressed the customers, so much so that he rapidly needed more space.

Then off he went and opened what soon became one of the highly respected restaurants on York's independent scene with version three of Fish and Forest.

Now, just four years later, he has embarked on number four, found at the distinguished address 13 Grape Lane in the heart of York, which his parents formerly owned.

Before I get to that, I will add that Stephen has kept his premises on Micklegate and turned it into Notes, a rather impressive wine bar he calls a sister brand to the restaurant. He serves the best wines, including some from Yorkshire, snazzy cocktails, draft and bottled beers.

A dear friend and I had lunch there recently, and I highly recommend the lunch plates of open-faced Danish smørrebrød (sandwiches).

Stephen has built his reputation in the city and out to national prominence, not just for his cooking but the ethos behind his work.

Sustainability is at the heart of his food, and where some may pay lip service to this, not Stephen, this is his passion, and he is serious about it. And I love it, especially his no-waste approach.

Fish are seasonal and sustainable and are mainly from UK waters. Likewise, meat and game are as local and wild as possible; understandably, his menu changes frequently with these ingredients.

Slipping quietly past the kitchen and imposing bar – so that Stephen didn't see me – on a busy Friday evening, I instantly liked this new incarnation; it's more grown up and less brutalist than before and has its own identity.

The walls are dark in a lovely indigo-ish blue. The walls teem with art, which we discuss at length over dinner; I particularly love the enormous painting of a mackerel by artist Dan Cimmerman.

The tables are neat and spaced well around the large dining room; the chairs are comfy.

I face into the room; my other half has a street view, which, as it had been a race day in York, keeps him amused watching the antics, the comings and goings and a few staggering around outside.

I'm not one for advocating cutting down trees needlessly, but I will say I like a menu to hold and ponder over and take my time in choosing, but here, they have decided a blackboard will suffice.

The menu is small, with five starters and four mains, so there's not too much to contemplate, and the blackboard is neatly written, at least, so I let that one go.

Veggie alert: there are two dishes, one called simply, Tomato, Tomato, Tomato, and a Panko Aubergine and Courgette main.

Otherwise, starter choices are between Stonebass – which I am told is very lightly cooked past raw - a venison tartare, Monktail with Sweetcorn, and Whitby crab, fennel and sourdough. Mains - Venison, Coley with Cauliflower and Scottish Plaice.

As this is summer and August, and on the promise of heritage tomatoes, I plumped for the thrice-named dish. What's not to like when they will be at their best at this time of year?

What's not to like is tomatoes straight from the fridge, which should never be allowed. Please let them at least gently come to room temperature if they must be in a refrigerator. Otherwise, forget heritage tomatoes; they're pointless as the flavour is dead.

What redeemed this dish for me, though, was the exquisite basil sorbet and chilli, caper and onion sauce with tomato juices, all squidgy and lovely in the bottom of the bowl.

There were no complaints across the way with the spanking fresh Whitby crab, sitting on a hefty chunk of bread topped with finely sliced fresh fennel. I felt jealous that I hadn't ordered it, too.

There was also a massive appreciation for a beautiful, cooked-to-perfect, generously proportioned haunch of venison served with roasted and crispy carrots and a sumptuous, deep-flavoured sauce. Here was Stephen's cooking at its best.

I will say it was excellent but was eclipsed, for me, by my seriously good Scottish Plaice served in a rich, classic Grenobloise sauce of brown butter, capers, chive oil, a little lemon and topped with finely chopped red onion, fresh grapes and samphire and is one of those dishes I will remember for a long time.

With three ways for pudding, it's another bang-on-season ingredient. However, this was a little chaotic, with baked cream, roasted plums in Amaretto, sorbet, a finger-licking sauce, and almond crackle.

We ate it and agreed we liked it, but it was less memorable than what had come before.

There is so much to love at Fish and Forest - despite a couple of small niggly bits – and most of that is in the detail.

I already mentioned the artwork, and I love the crockery made by Rock Garden outside of York, especially for Stephen.

The wine list is fantastic. I seldom mention wines unless they have particularly impressed me, but the glass of Alsace Contemplation from Domaine Marcel Deiss was truly delicious.

And hats off to the staff; their enthusiasm is infectious, and they handled my endless questioning with the same zeal, heading back to the kitchen if they did not know the answer.

Plus, with every version of Fish and Forest, Yohan Barthelemy has been involved, and here he is again, in the kitchen with Stephen.

Well done. It's another excellent place for York in these capable hands. I am so impressed with everything Stephen has done already, and I know there is even more to come. I can't wait.

Welcome 5/5

Food 4.5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 4/5

Fish and Forest, 13 Grape Lane, York YO1 7HU, Tel: 01904 661135 Open: Wed – Saturday 10 am - 11 pm. DInner for two came to £105 excluding wine