By Charlie Fenton

Published 20th Mar 2025, 05:00 GMT

One of the UK’s last traditional smokehouses whose fish are enjoyed by Princess Anne celebrates 150 years of success.

Barry Brown, 68, partner of Fortunes Kippers alongside his brother Derek, is the fifth generation to run the shop in the coastal town of Whitby, Yorkshire.

The smokehouse was founded in 1872 by William Fortune, but it was Barry’s uncle Bill who passed it onto him in and his brother in 1995 over 120 years later.

Barry Brown, partner of his family run Fortunes Kippers in Whitby, lights a fire to start to 20 hours smoking process of smoking kippers.

Famous faces including Mary Berry, The Hairy Bikers, and even Princess Anne have enjoyed their fish over the years.

Barry said: “We have been open now 150 years, we must be doing something right. It’s great to still be open and to be part of and to be able to continue Fortune’s legacy.”

The tiny 12 ft by 14 ft shop on Henrietta Street is nestled below the iconic St Mary’s Church.

Next door is the smoke house, where over 300 herring are produced everyday. Barry said the smoke house has a “sweet” smell and the tar stuck on the walls is “up to 100 years old”.

Barry Brown, partner of his family run Fortunes Kippers in Whitby, stands outside Fortunes Kippers.

The fish which were once locally sourced are now bought from Norway due to a ban herring fishing in the North Sea by the Common Fisheries Policy in the 1970s. Once defrosted the fish are sliced in half, cleaned, and then put in a brine of salt and water.

They are then smoked for over 20 hours using three separate fires which burn Beech and Oak wood and hardwood saw dust.

Barry said: “The first fire which burns for around 3 hours is the to dry them off as they are wet having just been defrosted. The second is to get some smoke into them to bring out their flavour.

"Then the final fire to the finish them off leaving them with a golden brown finish.”

Celebrities chefs including Rick Stein, Two Fat Ladies, James Martin, Mary Berry and The Hairy Bikers have all tired the smoked treat.

David said even Princess Anne enjoys the herring.

He said: “The princess has tried our herring on a couple of occasions. A member of staff usually comes and picks them up for her. It is brilliant these famous faces enjoy our fish.”

The most recent edition to the smokehouse is Barry’s daughter Beth, 35, who runs Fortune’s online shop which posts kippers all across the UK.

Beth says she is “really proud” of the business and looks to eventually take over with her sister Lacy and cousins Mathew and Daniel.

Fortunes Kippers, Whitby: The Yorkshire foodie institution loved by The Hairy Bikers, Princess Anne and James Martin

Comment Guidelines