Mannion and Co, York: 'I ate at a Yorkshire lunchtime favourite - the plates made us gasp with delight'

I mention them only because I am so proud of Yorkshire and the hospitality industry we have here.

Ten Michelin stars is a remarkable achievement, but it’s only part of the story.

It’s the depth of talent across the county — from restaurants, producers, and front-of-house teams — that makes the food scene in Yorkshire feel so vibrant and full of energy, while never losing sight of where it comes from.

One thing that astounds me just as much is the longevity of so many of these businesses.

No matter the economy, pandemics, or even roadworks (more on that in a minute), they keep going, quietly battling their way through with resilience and determination.

They can also often be forgotten in the flurry of new stars and the like, which is why I was heading to York to look at the recently revamped Mannion and Co on Blake Street.

I was taken aback when I realised the last time I reviewed Mannion’s in York was back in 2013, when Andy and Lucy Burton had just set up in what had been Lucy’s parents’ renowned greengrocery business for 25 years.

I visited their second café in Helmsley in 2016, still going strong, and their third, OPH by Mannion and Co in Easingwold, in 2023.

Last year, Andy and Lucy decided to close OPH in May to focus their efforts on York and Helmsley.

2024 had been a particularly tough year for the York café, thanks to ongoing roadworks by York City Council that shut down Blake Street for extended periods.

Mannion’s had to close for long stretches, putting enormous strain on them — yet, through it all, they carried on with the same commitment and care that has always defined their approach.

As Andy summed it up at the time of the closure of Easingwold quoting Meatloaf: “Two out of three ain’t bad.”

So, on a gloomy, rainy Saturday, my sister and I joined the queue. Yes, 13 years on, there’s still a queue, I’m pleased to say, and no, you can’t book.

We arrived at a good time — just before 12 — and were seated in less than 10 minutes in the cosy dining room at the back, which remains busy but a little quieter than sitting near the open kitchen.

I still adore Andy’s approach, with its distinctive ‘York meets the continent’ atmosphere — part deli, part bakery, part eatery.

The tables are snuggly arranged, customers squeeze past each other to allow others to pass, and there’s a general sense of bonhomie that only adds to the welcoming, lively vibe.

The menus are on large boards, and those sitting in front of them are so obliging when I take a quick snap to ponder over at our table.

I’m delighted to see that the (now) famous deli boards are still going strong, and I love that, 13 years on, they can proudly call the regular menu Mannion Classics— from a full English and rarebits to soup and many more — and I know instantly that I’ll be heading straight for the Turkish eggs.

While there are frequent menu changes here, some dishes are simply too good to remove.

What’s better than starting with a bowl of soup on this ridiculously cold, rainy day? The Thai-spiced sweet potato comes with prawn crackers and a peanut crumb and is perfect for the day.

The spice hits the back of the throat with a punch but is immediately softened by the silkiness of the deep-flavoured soup.

I’ve never been a fan of prawn crackers and would have preferred a chunk of their homemade bread, and I’m sure I could have asked for some.

This is my sister’s first time here, and she takes her time choosing her main course, further hindered by plates going past us, laden with food, making her decision even more difficult.

I must agree — it’s hard to decide, as even the way they write the menu with every detail is delicious-sounding, such as fried hen’s egg on toast, vegan nduja and roasted pineapple relish with toasted pine nuts and piquillo peppers.

Call me old-fashioned, but I much prefer seeing it written down like this than the current fashion for one-word menu descriptions.

Finally, she opts for the sticky Asian beef brisket with bao buns, kimchi slaw salad, toasted sesame, peanuts, and a Sriracha dressing. Good choice.

I’d forgotten just how generous the portions are here, and we both gasp when the plates arrive — they look incredible and taste even better.

The bao buns are textbook light and soft, filled with generous, dark, rich, finger-licking sticky meat, a heavy sprinkling of sesame, and a contrasting crunch and hit of the kimchi salad.

My Turkish eggs arrive poached with rose harissa yoghurt, a chickpea salad, and toasted pitta, and have a similarly carefully constructed mixture of texture and taste.

The eggs are perfectly cooked, he at comes from the harissa, and the crunchiness is courtesy of the delicious chickpea salad.

We finish with tea from Japanese Tetsubin teapots and are too full for Mannion’s famous cakes and pastries, so we take them home with us.

I came to see the refurb, and it’s impressive — I suspect Lucy had a big hand in this. It’s bright, fresh, and the addition of seating at the front counter is genius. I even recognise some pieces from the Easingwold café, especially the beautiful counter lights.

But I also came because it had been far too long since my last visit. I so enjoyed reconnecting with the wonderful food that Andy and his team create, the front-of-house service is spot on as always, and the atmosphere is brilliant.

I know you’ve had tough times, so thank you for keeping going and doing such a fantastic job for York — and for being part of what makes Yorkshire’s food scene so special.

Welcome 5/5

Food 5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 5/5

Lunch for two including tea £66.50.

Mannion and Co, 1 Blake St, York YO1 8QJ. Open Sun – Fri; 9.30 to 4 pm, Sat 9am to 4.30pm. Not open evenings