Pellizco: A restaurant ‘inspired by Mexico’ with 'remarkable execution'
Sheffield’s Sharrow Vale has a special place in my heart. The teenage me travelled the twelve miles on the bus from Bamford over the moors to Hunters Bar, by which time my heart was beating like a drum, and anticipation off the scale. For just along the way down Sharrow Lane was the shop that sold the coolest clothes and it’s where I bought my South Sea Bubble Company loons. If that’s triggered a Proustian rush, then we’re probably the same age.
Even back in the ‘70s it was a famously popular road, and where my lifelong love of Joni Mitchell began, hearing Blue for the first time being played in the record shop. I can’t tell you the thrill of it all - I was very much a country girl and this all seemed unspeakably exotic.
There were great places to eat too - and the same applies today, and everyone’s catered for: Native and the Mediterranean for fabulous fish, La Parilla for tapas, Six and a Half for fine dining – and any number of good cafes – and one of the best chippies in town, Two Steps, which began serving in 1895. I think I first went around then.
But tonight we’re headed for Pellizco, a restaurant ‘inspired by Mexico’.
It’s been on my radar for a while – Sheffield chums have been raving about it - so here we are.
As we turn up to Dyson place (where my fave Sheff bistro, Tonco used to be - sadly It’s no more, but they do still have a fab bakery/café over the road) we’re met with the rising hum of folk chatting, drinking and eating. Other than a cork coming out of a bottle, it’s my favourite sound.
Diners are sat outside on tables that wrap round the building, and we join them in the courtyard at the back.
It’s a balmy night – this summer just keeps on giving – and a couple of potent Mezcalitas come to the table in a flash. And oh my, here’s another menu that I could happily work my way through.
Antojitos (‘little cravings’) turn up in no particular order; we’ve ordered a number of tacos, and a soy and sesame cauliflower is first to arrive, and if it’s any indication of what’s ahead, it’s going to be a good night.
The tacos are clearly recently made and have quite a strong tell-tale corn taste and these are beautifully soft, and stuffed with feather-light tempura cauli, and a zingy bright green avocado salsa for dipping – so simple, and delicious.
Next up, a fish taco with the best finely-battered fish fingers – it’s light, the fish flaking nicely and lovely with a squeeze of lime.
The halloumi goes down well on the other side of the table – this side, not so much (I hardly noticed it to be honest) because arriving at the same time is THE HENDERSONS QUESADILLAS – yep, Hendos, my condiment of choice and applied liberally on almost every dinner in this house.
It’s outrageously good, hot as hell (thanks to guajillo, a chilli pepper fundamental to Mexican cooking) and a silky sauce not unlike guacamole, all on a corn tortilla, with Queso Oaxaca, a Mexican cheese.
There’s a beef Quesabirria, the beef shin and brisket cooked for an age and shredded into a tortilla that’s been dipped in the rich fat from the stewing process, and then quickly fried – so a crispy pancake but nothing like the Findus one your mum gave you for tea. With it is a dish of white onion and beef consommé – it’s un-instagrammable but absolutely stunning.
More brown food comes in the form of hispi cabbage and it’s star of the show, an absolute slam dunker, with extraordinary depth of flavour (aren’t you always amazed that such a humble veg can be transformed in the right hands?) and a silky, sweet pea mole to sit on, and a swirl of almond macha bringing the whole thing together.
We’re about done but it’s hard to resist a dish of Oaxacan beans; more beige food but man that flavour is immense. There’s often chocolate in Oaxacan food – it’s perfectly possible it’s in this dish too, but it’s hard to tell, there’s so much going on.
Pellizco was born in 2020 as a street food operation from a trailer, and they’ve gone on to pop-ups all across the UK before winning ‘Best Newcomer’ at the British Street Food Awards 2020 and then ‘Northern Champions & Best Vegetarian dish’ at the same awards in 2021.
The restaurant opened in December 2022 after an 18 month residency at The Cutlery Works. In May 2023 another gong came their way, winning ‘Best New Restaurant’ at the much-respected Exposed Magazine Awards.
The force behind it all is Danny Pinch, who in lockdown sold tacos from his dad’s drive before starting Pinch N Pull in the trailer.
“Our aim is to provide a combination of some classic Mexican flavours, using specialist ingredients that are not so readily available in this country. We combine that with our own twist on things, using cooking techniques learned from years in the professional kitchen, locally sourced ingredients and worldwide flavours.” You can add impressive skill level and remarkable execution too, Danny.
Talking of which I’ve got to mention our lovely server, Sahara, who guided us through the best combinations, said stop when we were in danger of over-ordering, and leave room for the amazing ice cream. She wasn’t wrong. There’s salted caramel and peanut, and gingernut and lemon. They’re the last word in velvety creamy silky salty gorgeousness. We had churros and Bullion dark chocolate (made down the road in Neepsend) with cinnamon sugar too, of course. It’s the law.
Pellizco, 8 Dyson Pl, Sharrow, Sheffield S11 8XX t: 07483 125160 www.pellizco.co.uk
Meal for two with cocktails and wine: £107