Pignut at the Hare, Scawton: 'This unqiue Yorkshire restaurant uses an astonishing array of local suppliers - and I loved it'
Having made their mark in Helmsley, Tom and Laurissa Heywood have moved to a new venture on the fringes of the North York Moors. Elaine Lemm visit Pignut at the Hare. Pictures by Tony Johnson.
Back in 2023, I had the pleasure of reviewing the newest restaurant to grace the busy streets of Helmsley in North Yorkshire.
The tiny Pignut restaurant was a first solo venture for the talented duo Tom and Laurissa Heywood, formerly of the Rattle Owl in York.
I was supremely impressed — giddy, almost — at witnessing what felt like a game-changing moment with their approach, though not entirely new — foraging, sourcing locally, and so on — but when that comes coupled with their enthusiasm and care not just for the food but for the planet, it was infectious.
I envied their ambition, and I basked in their energy.
So, just when I think all is hunky dory, this summer, I saw them upping sticks and heading to a new venture at another of my favourites, the Hare at Scawton, just a few miles down the road.
They have taken over from two other supremos, Paul and Liz Jackson, who are true hospitality royalty in the county.
What that pair managed out there on the fringes of the North Yorkshire Moors is incredulous, given that they totally renovated, extended, and ran the Hare just the two of them for years; the bedrooms there are gorgeous.
I will admit to a tiny amount of worry at Tom and Larrissa jumping from that lovely, small, intimate restaurant to one larger and with rooms. On my visit, though, everything seemed neatly put together.
They had worked hard through the summer, putting their mark on the Hare without taking from all that the Jacksons had done so exquisitely.
On a dark November night, it was shining brightly outside and in; it was all warm, cosy and inviting.
They had managed to keep the ambience the Hare is known for, while defining this new beginning for the centuries-old inn with their own style.
They also, thankfully, brought their ethos too. There's a tasting menu of 13 to 14 plates (£110 p/p), or a more modest half menu with nine offerings (£65). Both offer wine pairings, too, and are (£90) and (£55) respectively.
And, while we are on wines, they still have their fabulous selection of organic, bio, and natural wines. I tasted my first ever wine from Georgia here and loved it.
What intrigued me at my first visit to Pignut was the ‘wastage course’, based on the principle that, where possible, nothing is wasted in the kitchen.
It is also here, but this time with three little morsels, beautifully presented in a wooden box, made with leftover ingredients, including milk, spent coffee grounds, and even tiny pieces of Hare.
I should mention, these are kitchen leftovers from prep, not food returned to the kitchen from someone's plate, in case you were wondering.
Usually at this point, I would normally steel myself for the ride ahead, but we have chosen the half menu, so I feel less daunted, and knowing Tom's ability to surprise, I am quietly quite excited.
With no time to waste, so to speak, we start with beetroot from Newfields Organic Farm and Yorkshire Blue, punctuated with tiny, salty crackers.
A Monk's Pottage with Hare and Rosedale Goats' Cheese arrives, a nod to the history of the Hare (the inn, not the animal) and the Monks who allegedly stored beer here many centuries back. ago
Beautiful chunks of honey- and Nduja-marinated Castle Howard pork belly follow quickly, plus an added extra we wanted to try: what looks almost the same but is Lion's Mane mushrooms from Moorside Mushrooms, with tasty Acorn Dairy Brown butter and a delectable wild garlic sauce.
A slight pause is enlivened with the arrival of Jersey Milk Bread with cultured butter, a goat's cheese custard and charcuterie from free-roaming Mangalitza and woodland-pork pigs near Wass.
There are mussels from Hodgson in Hartlepool, then we head to what is ostensibly the main event of Castle Howard Wild Duck (fillet and breast), pear, black pudding and red cabbage puree, all of which were superb.
Though not on the half menu, we are persuaded to try a foraged Penny Bun (cèpe or porcini to those who don't know they are common here in the UK).
The Penny Bun and Lion's Mane mushrooms are made into luscious ice cream, a first for me, but not a last.
It comes with a coffee crumb, a mushroom biscuit, and a hogweed crumble and is an inspired piece of cooking from Tom and the team and is my chosen dish of the night
On the last lap, there are two more desserts, both so good, especially the Coney Hill Jersey Milk ice cream, Hill Top Cottage Honey, and there's Nan's Cake tin, an ale cake made with Jacky Boy from Helmsley Brewery.
When I read this review back, I am astounded at the mentions throughout of local producers, breweries, farms, butchers and so on.
There is also Oli of Fulford Forge and the gorgeous handmade knives we ate with, and the lovely ceramics from Iona Ceramics and who, ironically, now runs pottery classes from what was the original Pignut in Helmsley.
The staff they now have seem as passionate about the food as they are; I told you their ethos is infectious.
Since that first visit to Pignut, I've watched them grow, earning acclaim both locally and nationally.
I've visited many other restaurants that have attempted a similar approach but haven't achieved the same success as Pignut at the Hare.
For me, it's the combination of the pair that makes it unique — a synergy that is truly difficult to replicate.
Plus, they have surrounded themselves with an astonishing array of local suppliers, and those further away, such as the wines chosen by Laurissa for their ethics and care.
It is also this that gives Pignut at the Hare its success, accolades and happy guests. I wish them a long and happy journey in what they do; this hardworking couple deserves it.
Welcome 5/5
Food 5/5
Atmosphere 5/5
Prices 5/5
Pignut at the Hare, Hare Inn, Scawton, York YO7 2HG Tel: 01845 597769