Restaurant review: Elaine Lemm visits the General Tarleton Inn to see how it is faring after her first review. Pictures by Mike Cowling.

Several years ago, one of the first restaurants I reviewed was the General Tarleton at Ferrensby. Back then, chef-owner John Topham was a fledgling restaurateur having just left the cosy nest and protection of Denis Watkins at the renowned Angel at Hetton. John and his wife Clare had a tough challenge to establish themselves, because of and despite their pedigree. They did it, and they did it very well.

Fast forward several years and it is time for my revisit. Early doors on a blustery winter’s night is never going to be the best time to visit any restaurant but is a good test. There was something a little out of kilter – nothing drastic, just not quite the tight ship I remembered. With a little questioning, I discover restaurant manager Enzo is in Sicily on holiday and John Topham is away on business. Mmm?

Essentially, the Tarleton is still the same cosy dining pub I remember but frequent updating means it has cleaner, fresher, modern lines that have not disturbed the general feel of the place. There is a restaurant for fine dining or more relaxed eating in the brasserie – the pub part. A glamorous outdoor terrace (not for tonight) I imagine in summer is glorious. And the best bit, you are just as welcome in the bar if you only want a pint.

A similar approach of keeping up with the times yet not throwing out what works has been taken with the menu. It is lively, vibrant and leaps quite ably from pub classic to restaurant contemporary. A specialty is seafood yet it does not detract from the meats, game and other locally sourced produce on the menu. Provenance has always been a keynote of the Tarleton, which one look at the exhaustive list of local suppliers quickly confirms. The wines flaunt the same level of attention and are clearly chosen with care. They do not take the mickey with price, margins seem sensible enough for customers to be able to enjoy more interesting wines without breaking the bank. And, hurrah, hurrah there is a choice of more than 20 by the glass.

Our first starter is an old friend. Little Moneybags are a legendary dish here. The crisp, pastry parcels heaving with seafood in a lobster sauce are as good today as I remember. The brush of modernism sweeps over our other starter of black pudding, foie gras and rhubarb, a dramatic combination of taste and texture. The seasoning of the pudding is light enough to support the delicacy of the duck liver and all are lightly tickled with a moreish rhubarb relish. Choosing a wine for this combination is difficult but even I knew the recommendation of a Sauternes offered by our waiter was way off the mark – a dry Gewurztraminer or a top end Alsace Riesling perhaps?

Despite rabbit, rare breed pork, steak and ale pie and many more for mains there was something calling me to “Skipper Stormy Steve’s fantastic Fleetwood landed fresh langoustines coated in Black Sheep beer batter and breadcrumbs, hand-cut real chips and tartare sauce”. Phew, quite a description. The batter and crumb was as light as a cobweb and delicately wrapped a chunk of tender langoustine and together with the triple cooked chips had me begging for more. This was a pub classic taken to another level. Across the table, a succulent slab of 28-day matured Angus beef rib eye from the Yorkshire Dales Company at Patrick Brompton was devoured in near silence. The Béarnaise sauce served in a charming tiny copper pot was on the edge of splitting but a quick whisk with a fork brought it safely back to smother the steak with its lusciousness.

Puds are robust and alluring. The time of year offered a trio of rhubarb which presents as a compote with ice cream and a delicate slip of rhubarb, a velvety crème brulée, and what turned out to be the major disappointment of the evening a gluey, soggy crumbleless crumble. Not a great note to end dinner on, but I only have to think about the chips and all is restored.

Hats off to the staff who were left holding the fort. I will forgive them letting the fire go out and the odd slip here and there because overall it was reassuring to see the Tarleton continues to hold up all that is great. Three-courses for two with wine and service slips in at just above £80. There are early supper specials, Sunday lunch and events on offer throughout the year.

* Open daily at lunchtime from noon, last orders at 2.00pm and in the evening from 6.00pm, last orders at 9.15pm (8.30pm on Sunday). The General Tarleton Inn, Boroughbridge Road, Ferrensby, Knaresborough, HG5 0PZ Tel: 01423 340284.