Rohit Ghai: 'This is how you can add a dash of fine-dining quality to your home-cooked curries'

Rohit Ghai is considered to have been a big part of the transformation of the Indian fine dining scene but he says to make the best dishes you have to be patient.

Mangalore fish curry

Mangalorean fish curry is known as ‘Meen Gassi’ and is traditionally made with sweet coconut and tamarind, as well as hot chilli.

Ingredients

Rohit Ghai's fish curry. Picture credit: Agata Noweta/Byter Digital /PARohit Ghai's fish curry. Picture credit: Agata Noweta/Byter Digital /PA
Rohit Ghai's fish curry. Picture credit: Agata Noweta/Byter Digital /PA

(Serves 2-3)

500g stone bass fish

200g onion, very finely chopped

4 green chillies, slit

Rohit Ghai's hispi cabbage. Picture credit: Agata Noweta/Byter Digital/PARohit Ghai's hispi cabbage. Picture credit: Agata Noweta/Byter Digital/PA
Rohit Ghai's hispi cabbage. Picture credit: Agata Noweta/Byter Digital/PA

70g coconut milk

Oil, as required

2tbsp coriander powder

1tbsp red chilli powder

25g tamarind, soaked in warm water

1tbsp turmeric powder

10-15 curry leaves

Salt, to taste

Method

1. Marinate the fish: coat the fish with salt and turmeric, then set aside.

2. Extract juice from the soaked tamarind and keep aside.

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3. To prepare the sauce, heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Sauté onions and chillies until golden brown. Stir in red chilli powder, coriander powder, and turmeric powder. Cook for 1 minute. Add tamarind juice and ¾ cup water (or fish stock for more flavour). Boil for 4-5 minutes.

4. To cook the fish: Gently add the marinated fish pieces to the simmering curry in a single layer. Do not stir immediately to prevent breaking the fish. Let it cook undisturbed for 3–4 minutes on medium-low heat. Then, carefully turn the pieces using a spoon or by gently shaking the pan. Allow the fish to cook for another 3–5 minutes, depending on the thickness, until it turns opaque and flakes easily. Avoid overcooking, as the fish should remain tender.

If opting for the pan-seared method, heat a little oil in a separate pan over medium heat. Sear the marinated fish for 2–3 minutes per side until golden brown. Once done, gently place the seared fish into the prepared sauce and let it sit for a minute to absorb the flavours before serving.

5. Reduce the heat and stir in coconut milk and curry leaves. Simmer for 1 minute, then remove from heat.

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6. Serve hot with plain rice or tawa roti, garnished with fried curry leaves and whole red chillies.

Hispi cabbage with sesame-spiced yoghurt

Give restaurant-classic hispi cabbage an Indian twist with spices. Chef Rohit Ghai serves this dish up in his new restaurant Vatavaran in London.

Ingredients

(Serves 2-3 as a side dish)

1 x hispi cabbage

For the glaze:

100g fresh coriander, roughly chopped

15g mint leaves

10 garlic cloves

2tbsp lime juice

1tbsp coarse black pepper

4 green chillies (adjust to taste)

1tbsp balsamic vinegar

100ml olive oil

Salt, to taste

For the sesame-spiced yoghurt:

8-10 fried garlic cloves, finely chopped or mashed

1tsp dried mint

2tbsp sesame paste

50g yoghurt

1tsp garam masala

Salt, to taste

Method

1. Make the sesame-spiced yoghurt: mix all ingredients in a bowl, adjust seasoning to personal preference, and refrigerate until needed.

2. Make the glaze: blend all ingredients into a fine, thick paste. Adjust spice level by increasing or reducing green chillies.

3. Preheat the oven to 180°C or heat a barbecue.

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4. Bring a pot of water to a boil, add salt, and blanch the Hispi cabbage for 30 seconds.

5. Transfer to ice-cold water to stop cooking, then drain on a kitchen towel and cut into four wedges, keeping the core intact

6. Cook the cabbage: If using a frying pan (rather than grill), heat it until hot but not smoking. Sear the cabbage wedges cut-side down for 6-8 minutes until golden and charred. Flip and cook for another 6-8 minutes.

7. Apply the glaze and transfer to a baking tray, cut-side up. Roast in the oven for 6-8 minutes until the stalks are tender

8. Serve hot with sesame-spiced yoghurt.

Butter chicken

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One of Britain’s most beloved Indian dishes, butter chicken originated in Delhi in the 1950s. Also known as Murgh Makhani, it’s all about the unctuous, buttery tomato-base sauce.

Ingredients

(Serves 2-3)

For the chicken marinade:

8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs (cut in two)

100g yoghurt

15g Kashmiri red chilli powder

1tbsp ginger-garlic paste

1tbsp mustard oil

1tsp dried kasoori methi

1tbsp lime juice

½tsp garam masala

Salt, to taste

For the sauce:

2kg fresh or canned chopped tomatoes

2tsp Kashmiri chilli powder

2tsp table salt

2 bay leaves

4-5 green cardamom pods

4 peppercorns

1tbsp cumin seeds

2 blades mace

3tbsp rapeseed or vegetable oil

50g roughly chopped ginger

8-10 garlic cloves

3-4 whole green chillies

2tbsp dried fenugreek leaves

1tsp garam masala

50ml honey (if needed)

50ml double cream

50g unsalted butter

Julienned ginger and chopped fresh coriander, for garnish

Method

1. Marinate chicken with ginger-garlic paste, salt, and lime juice. Then, apply a second marinade of yoghurt, Kashmiri chilli powder, garam masala, kasoori methi, mustard oil, and salt. Refrigerate for at least 3-4 hours.

2. Grill the marinated chicken in a tandoor or preheated oven at 200°C for 15-20 minutes until cooked through.

3. To prepare the sauce, heat oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add cumin seeds and whole spices, allowing them to crackle for a minute. Add garlic, ginger, and green chillies. Cook briefly before adding the tomatoes.

4. Simmer for 45 minutes with a loosely covered lid.

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5. Stir in Kashmiri chilli powder and salt. Let cool slightly before blending into a smooth sauce.

6. Combine and serve: Reheat the sauce and add the cooked chicken.

7. Check seasoning. If too sour, add honey to balance the flavours.

8. Finish with cream, butter, garam masala, and fenugreek leaves. Garnish with julienned ginger and fresh coriander. Serve with naan, roti, or paratha.

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