Roots, York: 'I tried out at a Michelin-starred Sunday roast dinner - and I wasn't disappointed'

I love cooking a Sunday lunch, but let’s be honest, it’s a bit of a to-do and takes oodles of time, intention, organisation and washing-up. So it is no surprise that up and down the land, every decent pub serving one will be packed – even those not as good don’t do too badly.

In recent weeks, though, I found myself out not once but twice. My first lunch was an invite from friends to the White Horse at Ampleforth and another invite, this time from Michelin-starred Roots in York, Tommy Banks' second starred restaurant.

I leapt at the first in a traditional pub, log fire, a cracking chef and my best friends. But I dithered at the second.

Not because I do not like Tommy's food, because I do; it's terrific, but I worried my roast dinner in Michelin land might be faffed around with, even though I do know a few starred chefs who can knock one out.

You know what I mean, Yorkshire puds served on a rock with a drizzle of jus, my cauliflower cheese deconstructed, or my roasties Hasslebacked. I want it straightforward and traditional, not to have to interpret it.

I was, however, intrigued by Tommy's ethos on The Sunday Feast Menu at Roots; it is a celebration of the produce grown, reared and foraged from his family's farm and kitchen garden, which also services his Michelin starred Black Swan at Oldstead and The Abbey Inn at Byland Abbey.

The Abbey has just earned Banks the title of Best Sunday Lunch in the UK for the Good Food Guide. I went once and haven't been back, but it has nothing to do with the food quality. Enough said.

His menu at Roots is captivating. We had no direction for what to expect until we read the menu and discovered five starters - or so we thought.

Oldstead charcuterie, smoked salmon with whipped buttermilk, duck liver parfait and fermented damson, Killeen and Coppa croquette, and sourdough with wild garlic honey butter, were hard to choose from.

We pondered it as we sat back and supped on a delicious glass of Charles Palmer, Black Swan Edition 2017 sparkling from Sussex. But the food arrived before we could decide, and to our surprise, all five starters were served, albeit only on small plates

Biting into the excellent sharp crusted sourdough, that I had slathered with wild garlic honey butter, which then oozed into the soft open crumb, I knew I was in trouble; this was deliciously moreish. As was the home-cured sliver of salmon; thank goodness there was only one each.

The silken duck liver parfait had just the hint of bitterness that I like, which was mellowed out with the damson jam, and the textbook porkiness of the Oldstead charcuterie rounded out from the shards of lightly pickled veg too were winners.

The only one I wasn't keen on was the croquette, which was very salty. Irish Killeen is a cheese I like very much for its sweet, almost nutty flavour, so I think the Coppa was the villain here – or a heavy hand in the salt pot?

Then, the show's stars arrived with a salt-aged roast loin of pork on one plate and a salt-aged rib of beef on the other.

The supporting cast was Yorkshire puddings, roast potatoes, Tunworth and mustard cauliflower cheese, carrots glazed in spruce and tarragon, red cabbage glazed in blackcurrant and for the pork, a dripping gravy, bone marrow gravy for the beef.

Both meats were superb. The hefty slice of beef was cooked precisely as I love it, meltingly soft with a deep flavour that can only come from well-reared and cared-for beasts and a proper understanding of the ageing process.

The horseradish did bring a tear to my eye, but perversely, it is how I love it. The pork was also much lauded for its flavour and texture, and I need to know what they did to make such scrumptious crackling. The vegetables all worked well, and no complaints at all.

But, the Yorkshire puddings were a little too crisp and dark for me, and seemingly, also across the table, who got 10/10 for saying mine are better.

The dessert of Comice Pear with sheep’s yoghurt ice cream, hazelnut, and honey showed the same level of skill in the kitchen.

This delightfully light dessert worked so well after the roast. We had shared the flight of wines through the lunch, all beautifully and expertly matched - I assume - by Tommy's brother James, who looks after the wines across all three restaurants.

The atmosphere in Roots on my visit was so great, busy but not loudly so, just the sound of people happily having a great, relaxed Sunday lunch with, hopefully, no thoughts of work next day.

Every table was full; I loved watching the open kitchen in full flow with chefs, head down, working as a tight team, cooking, plating, and serving to staff who whizzed back and forth between tables and kitchen. They were excellent, never missing a beat.

I have known Tommy and the Banks family since they first opened the Black Swan long before any stars or accolades came their way, and I certainly remember a young Tommy in his very early days in the kitchen.

I even remember the Focaccia he made the night I first reviewed there; he showed promise even then, so it is no surprise where he, with his family, is today.

Any reluctance I may have had about putting my beloved Sunday roast into Michelin hands is long gone. I would not hesitate to go back the next time I need a break from my kitchen.

Three-course Sunday lunch £55, plus 12.5% service charge. Supplement for beef rib, £15

Welcome 5/5

Food 5/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 5/5

Roots, 68 Marygate, York YO30 7BH, www.rootsyork.com