Tappinos, Cleckheaton: The Italian bistro in Yorkshire which is the very essence of a neighbourhood restaurant

Perhaps a quiet bolthole to enjoy dinner a deux, where you have the same table each time you go and are miffed when you find someone else sitting at it?

Never mind spending what feels like days trying to secure a table at the latest fancy hot spot; a neighbourhood bar is all about authenticity.

It’s slightly wonky and homespun – just a comfortable room with friendly faces and a relaxed atmosphere.

We all have our own definition; on my list is respect in the community, a warm welcome and a casual vibe. I’d add a varied clientele; young couples, older couples, groups of friends and single diners.

A former editor of the Good Food Guide defined his favourite neighbourhood restaurant as 'the one where they know you'. ‘Hello, how are you? Awful weather. Did you have trouble parking? Let me take your coats.’

You might not eat the greatest food of your life here, but your affection for the place overrides any blips in the cooking.

As Jimi Famurewa, the food critic at the London Evening Standard wrote recently: ‘Your local restaurant needs you. And also, whether you realise it or not, I’d wager that you really, really need them too.’

Cleckheaton isn’t my neighbourhood but if it was you’d have to hose me out of Tappinos on a regular basis.

Cleck, as it’s colloquially known, once an industrious textile town has all the trappings of former wealth in the shape of monumental buildings associated with king cotton (including the 19th century Grade II-listed Town Hall, currently closed and looking for someone to save it) and like so many West Yorkshire towns feels a bit down at heel.

But round the corner from the town hall and opposite the Royal Mail Delivery Depot, beauty spa, bespoke alterations shop and a lymph drainage therapist, is this authentically Italian bistro.

It’s buzzing at 6pm on a Wednesday. Bottles are being opened, a couple of chefs are busy in the semi-open kitchen, the music’s on and the maître d’ welcomes us like regulars.

It’s an eclectic jumble of a space, with hardly a surface left unbothered – a bit like that quirky little family-run trattoria you found in an Umbrian back street last summer.

The only thing missing is a telly in the corner blaring out football and the dog winding between your legs under the table. I mean all this in a good way – it’s charming, and the menu reads like that Umbrian gem.

There’s nothing here to scare the horses, so expect the likes of Croquettes Di Patate, Parmigiana Di Melanzane, and Patatas Bravas to start and classic pizzas to follow. There are of course meatballs, gambas and Insalata Di Fagioli, plus burgers and chicken skewers for the kids.

There’s bruschetta made the Altamura way and panzerottino, those gorgeous deep fried dough balls stuffed with mozzarella and tomato, and guaranteed to fill you up before you’ve had a chance to neck whatever else you’ve ordered.

When I say you, I mean me. Will I ever learn?

We kick off with a couple of things on the ‘Guestapas’ menu, crab and crayfish ravioli and Fiori di Zucca, deep fried courgette flowers with garlic mayo dip – both full of flavour, the courgettes the better dish, with feather-light tempura batter resulting in a satisfying shatter on the teeth.

Other choices included pan-fried scallops and black charcoal pizza with goat cheese, parma ham, figs and balsamic vinegar reduction.

Next up, an excellent Arancini, stuffed with spinach, mushroom and Scamorza (a cow’s milk cheese from southern Italy, a close relative of mozzarella) swiftly followed by an excellent Pizza Vomero topped with Italian sausage, friarielli (turnip top) and stracciatella cheese.

Dishes arrive as and when they’re ready, so not the traditional three courses – in fact they called themselves an Italian tappas wine bar (the clue is in the name).

I’ve a weakness for Italian sausage – it’s the fennel thing – so it’s ordered and arrives with polenta chips like Jenga – and doesn’t disappoint.

Fritto Misto brings up the rear and is slightly disappointing, but not enough to cast a shadow over the meal.

Desserts include Tiramisu, Rum Baba with pistachio ice cream (I came within a knat’s whisker of this) and cannolis. There’s a deep fried pizza ball with Nutella, and here’s an interesting bit of history.

After the Second World War, cocoa was extremely scarce. In the hungry months, a young confectioner in Alba in the Piedmont district, Pietro Ferrero had a vision of an affordable luxury made of a small amount of cocoa and lots of hazelnuts, and he created Nutella – or at least the genesis of it.

Now I know why Italians are nuts about it – there are cafes dedicated to it.

Owner Pino Bianco is from Puglia, hence the southern Italy influence, and throughout the evening patrols his territory, chatting and charming, teasing and smiling.

Bianco ran Aldos, a much-loved restaurant in Cleck for 30 years before he moved to Westgate. Can you imagine how much passion and perseverance it takes to still be turning up every night dispensing good food and good spirits?

He’s aided and abetted by is his number one, Alessandro, who darts around the place administering beer and cheer.

We ask for a second Moretti Mare and he straight-faced says ‘sorry, only one allowed per table’ followed by a massive wink. Tappinos: the very essence of a neighbourhood restaurant.

These small, family-run businesses depend on our custom so please support them if you can. I’m with Jimi: we need them as much as they need us. If you’re lucky enough to have one, don’t take it for granted.

Eat there tonight, if not next week.

Welcome 5/5

Food 4/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 4/5

Tappinos 8-10 Westgate, Cleckheaton BD19 5ET t: 01274 864111 www.tappinos.co.uk