The White Horse, Ampleforth: The young couple serving up success in their second Yorkshire village pub

I know from my close association with many of these businesses that they do not take the decision lightly; they often have no choice. So, every time I hear of a new opening, I am staggered by those brave enough to take on this inordinately challenging career.

Well, two courageous young people, Ali Moran and his partner Lydia, have done just that by taking over The White Horse in Ampleforth, a much-loved village pub which closed some time ago.

They are not new to the business, having already proven their worth with The Blacksmiths Arms in Lastingham, which they continue to run way up on the edge of the North York Moors.

I visited them early in 2023 and loved it. It was crazy busy when I visited, so I assumed that would be enough to handle, but clearly not.

The White Horse is but five minutes from where I live, and curiosity got the better of me when they first opened; I popped in, had a drink, quietly left and returned several times over the coming months. Each time, I saw how carefully and considerately they refurbished the pub.

They have done much sprucing up, including new seating, yet cleverly have kept the cosy, welcoming pub atmosphere.

Our table was booked for 6.30 pm and I was astonished to find the pub already bustling. The fire was roaring, the bar was busy with drinkers, and the dining rooms were filling up nicely.

When I am dining in a pub, no matter how lovely the dining room is, the bar is where I like to eat, though many pubs don't want that. Here, it was no problem at all.

Ali has carried his ethos from the Blacksmiths to The White Horse, using what is around him: shoots, local meat, and the like. The Special board boasts pheasant in three guises: pan-fried venison, beef as a Bourguignon, lobster tails as a main and pan-fried scallops as a starter.

Nowhere on the menu does it say where any of these are from, which would be good to point out. If you are wondering where the classics are, no fear; they are abundant, from steak and ale pie to fish and chips or fish pie.

There's scampi, burgers, steak and a cashew nut roast. So, comfort food is a-plenty.

Be warned, the portion sizes here are generous. A gentle-sounding smoked salmon pâté, cod goujon and Bloody Mary prawn cocktail was, thankfully, being eaten across the table. Delicious as it was, the creamy hunk of pâté came with dill and lemon on a thick slice of chewy sourdough; the fist-sized crispy goujon would have looked just at home alongside mushy peas and chips.

And finally, the, albeit small, glass of fat prawns bathed in the spicy sauce with everything else would have filled me up right from the get-go.

Thankfully, my plump beetroot and goat's cheese samosa served with a salad and a swish of balsamic was more manageable, though I couldn't have eaten two.

I was holding back for the promised pan-fried lobster tails with lemon and garlic butter, sautéed baby potatoes, Tenderstem and Thermidor sauce.

The hearty plate piled high did not disappoint, except the promised baby potatoes seemed to have mysteriously become grown-up slices but were forgiven as they nicely soaked up the creamy sauce.

The tails were sweet, but the texture was a little tight, making them a touch chewy.

The pheasant and thyme ballotine, with a mini pheasant, chorizo, and thyme casserole, Parmesan scone herbed mash and creamed cabbage, took the prize on the night for size and flavour.

The chef had cooked the cylindrical chunk of bacon-wrapped pheasant ballotine beautifully, though it was more plonked than perched on the creamy mash alongside the cabbage.

The casserole was tucked into a small one-portion copper pan and covered by the stout cheesy scone. What a delicious plate of food, no matter its arrangement. Give me flavour and good cooking over prissy plating any day.

No way, I thought, where would he put that when my other half ordered the odd-sounding Banoffee Pint of Groovy?

Our waitress suggested we might want two spoons, which usually causes a minor protest across the way, but not this time, which is just as well.

The pint glass was teeming with salted caramel from Groovy Moo in Malton, thick banana slices, caramel sauce, Lotus biscuits and fresh cream.

What an exceptionally rich, showy dessert this was, of which I only managed a few spoonfuls and, though rare, even defeated him, though I think he considered taking it home.

While we were enjoying our dinner, I watched the number of people coming through the door, and when we left, we peeped into the three small dining rooms, which were full. Yet, despite being so busy, they managed everything smoothly and efficiently; if they didn't, I hadn't noticed.

Lydia and her team out front never stopped. How surprised we were when, coincidentally, we were back at the White Horse three days later, this time by invitation from friends to meet for Sunday lunch, which was equally as good as our evening dinner.

All six of us thoroughly enjoyed the traditional lunch with cracking beef or pork, excellent Yorkshire puddings, gravy, or a tasty steak pie.

This young couple never seems to stop; if they aren't at the White Horse, they are at the Blacksmiths. Too much, you might say, but they have passion and drive and deserve to be supported.

The only way these lovely, traditional pubs, restaurants, et al. will survive is with our support, whether it's popping in for a pint, a Sunday lunch, a family dinner, or whatever.

If we don't, there's no point moaning when these traditional businesses are gone. And this hard-working young couple most certainly deserve to succeed. Dinner with wine £87.50

Welcome 5/5

Food 4/5

Atmosphere 5/5

Prices 5/5

White Horse Inn, West End, Ampleforth, York YO62 4DX, Tel: 01439 78837