What Michelin has to say about Yorkshire's ten starred restaurants
Black Swan, Oldstead – Tommy Banks: Michelin says: “All the hallmarks of a characterful country pub can be found here: exposed beams, flagged floors and even an open fire. The cooking is driven by produce from their farm, such as superb Herdwick lamb presented in two servings. The chefs work in total harmony with the gardeners, and an array of preservation techniques are used to ensure their ingredients last. The resulting dishes boast bold yet harmonious contrasts and plenty of depth. The entire team has wholeheartedly bought into the restaurant’s vision and their enthusiasm is infectious. The antique-furnished bedrooms have private patios.”
Forge, Middleton Tyas – Jake Jones: Michelin says: “The sprawling Middleton Lodge Estate stretches out over 200 acres and today includes this creative restaurant which sits inside the forge that once served the estate. The tasting menu – which also comes in both vegetarian and vegan forms – features seasonal produce, including some grown on the Estate, where they even harvest their own honey and birch sap. The cooking demonstrates a strong grasp of balance and flavour, with dishes that allow these local ingredients to shine like the picture-perfect Reuben blackberry and pineapple weed tart.”
JORO, Oughtibridge (new) – Luke French: Michelin says: “Joro’s relocation to this 300-year-old former mill on the edge of Sheffield has certainly been a labour of love. The building has been smartly converted, with bedrooms available upstairs and an open kitchen in the dining room. The cooking is pure and occasaionlly playful , with the quality ingredients treated with respect and understanding. Just take the Vale of Mowbray hogget, for example, enhanced by a mint-tinged lamb jus, a bright tomato and chipotle cream and a vibrant caponets. The excellent service is a real team effort, with every person brimming with enthusiasm.”
mýse, Hovingham – Josh Overington: Michelin says: “In a pretty little village on the edge of the North York Moors lies this former pub with stripped-back décor – expect flagstone floors, whitewashed beams and exposed stone walls. The tasting menu features prime produce enhanced by a range of techniques, both traditional and modern, as with the subtle, well-judged use of pickling and preserving. A top wine list and non-alcoholic pairings ensure the food isn’t the only highlight, while cosy, simply decorated bedrooms complete the picture.”
Pipe and Glass, South Dalton – James Mackenzie: Michelin says: “Look for the church spire to help you navigate through the maze of country lanes that lead to this charming 15th century pub, which was originally the gatehouse of Dalton Park. The Yorkshire larder is well represented on the menus, with numerous daily specials reflecting what’s best in season. Unfussy, instantly recognisable dishes like dressed crab, elevated thanks to the exceptional ingredients and the kitchen’s keen sense of balance. The charming team ensure everyone is looked after with a smile and smart bedrooms add a luxurious edge.
FIFTY TWO, Rudding Park, Harrogate – Adam Degg: Michelin says: “The open kitchen acts as a stage at this theatrical restaurant set in the grounds of Rudding Park hotel. All the semi-communal table face the chefs as they craft their creative surprise tasting menu, which is filled with assured, technically skilled dishes informed by their home-grown produce (from the 52 raised beds) and the preserved ingredients that line the shelves. In a playful touch, ‘Dessert Island Discs’ allows guests to choose a track to play while the puddings are served. Said desserts are a highlight, such as the exquisitely executed honey custard tart crafted from their own honey.”
Roots, York – Tommy Banks: Michelin says: “Set in a quiet area of the city, this attractive Arts and Crafts building is little sister to the Black Swan in Oldstead and shares its ethos of seasonality and sustainability. Tasting menus evolve naturally according to the availability of produce – which originates from their kitchen garden, small regional suppliers and chef-owner Tommy Banks’ parents’ farm. Creative, modern dishes are carefully prepared and deceptively simple to look at, yet offer great refinement and depth of flavour. There’s plenty of choice on the well-chosen wine list, with everything available by the glass.”
Shaun Rankin at Grantley Hall, Ripon – Shaun Rankin: Michelin says: “This beautifully decorated, formal restaurant occupies what was once the music room of this sumptuous and luxurious 17C country house. Shaun Rankin’s creative, modern cooking is a perfect fit for these surroundings and is inspired by his childhood memories and an insider’s knowledge of the area. There is a bounteous larder in Yorkshire and the tasting menu, which flows in a skilled way, focuses on its very best produce. Adding to the experience is a well-organised and professional service team.”
Star Inn at Harome – Andrew Pern: Michelin says: “Andrew Pern’s 14C thatched inn oozes charm and character, with its low ceilings, Robert ‘Mouseman’ features and some charred beams left in situ in a nod to its life story. Head Chef Steve Smith’s cooking has a classical base with modern overtones, and Yorkshire leads the way in rich, gutsy, flavour-driven dishes, with fish coming from Whitby, game from the Moors and vegetables plucked from the kitchen garden. Relax on the terrace, then stay over in one of the individually styled bedrooms; one boasts a snooker table, another, a piano.”
The Angel, Hetton – Michael Wignall: Michelin says: “Deep within the Yorkshire Dales sits The Angel, a stunning stone-built inn with 15C origins, which now has a modern Nordic style courtesy of polished concrete floors and light wood furnishings. Classic combinations are to the fore but are subtly modernised and refined, with dishes demonstrating a simplicity that allows every ingredient to shine. The exuberant service team enhance the experience, and the bedrooms – which are spread around the village – mix the classic and the contemporary.”
Green stars
Yorkshire also has three Michelin green stars to recognise “culinary excellence with outstanding eco-friendly commitments”. It awards those who hold themselves accountable when it comes to their environmental impact, and who make choices based on how green they are: The Black Swan Oldstead; The Forge, Middleton Lodge; Homestead Kitchen, Goathland.