Whitelock's Ale House, Leeds: The pub which is a local institution and 'the very heart of Leeds'
As well as being something of a local institution, Whitelock’s is one of those pubs you don’t go to for ages and then when you do, you find yourself saying ‘I must come here more often.’
This was the case a few Saturdays back when me and a friend came for a few post-gig drinks.
I’ve been to Whitelock’s many times over the years, and it was gratifying to see such a varied clientele – young and old, men and women, students and rosy-cheeked regulars.
Gratifying because places like this, it’s billed as the oldest public house in Leeds, can very easily become naff ye olde worlde pubs full of tourists and, God forbid, social media ‘influencers’.
Whitelock’s Ale House, to give it its Sunday name, first opened in 1715 as the Turk’s Head named after the yard in which it sits.
In the 1880s the Whitelock family purchased the pub, and it was the Whitelocks who (as well as changing the name) went on a renovation spree, establishing the ornate decor still in place today, including the long copper topped bar, tiled front, etched brewery mirrors and cast-iron fireplace.
It was a popular rendezvous for stage stars appearing at the nearby City Varieties and Leeds Grand and has long been a popular haunt with writers and journalists.
The late, great Keith Waterhouse imbibed here as did the poet John Betjeman who gushingly proclaimed it “the very heart of Leeds.”
Today, after a bit of a wobble in the noughties, it’s back where it belongs as one of the best pubs in the city centre.
As you would hope, there’s an impressive array of beers from Yorkshire breweries.
I stuck to Theakston’s Old Peculier, but there are plenty of enticing ales from the likes of Northern Monk, North Brew Co, Kirkstall, Ilkley and Timothy Taylor’s.
They also have some decent speciality ciders and an impressive wine list.
If you’ve been to Whitelock’s before then it’s well worth revisiting and if you haven’t then I’d heartily recommend you do, because they really don’t make them like this anymore.
Welcome 4/5
Atmosphere 5/5
Drinks choice 5/5
Prices 4/5
Whitelock’s Ale House, Turks Head Yard, Leeds. LS16HB. Tel 0113 245 3950.