Wine expert Christine Austin tries a dozen bottles of rosé - this is her verdict
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Is rosé just a quaffing wine, or is there a serious side to the pale pink wine that is poured at most summer gatherings?
It is possible to pick up a half-decent bottle of pink for £6 or so, but with prices climbing beyond £20, are the more expensive wines any better and will anyone be impressed if you pour them?
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Hide AdI lined up a dozen bottles of rosé wine, some bargains and some rather expensive options and tasted them blind, trying to pick out the best flavours. Then the great reveal showed whether it is actually worth paying over the odds for your rosé.
The great divide for rosé is whether you go down the path to Provence or try wines from other parts of France and the rest of the world.
Until a decade or so ago, Provence rosé was essentially made for people on holiday in the region and those who moored their yachts along this fabulous coastline. Then the boom in rosé came and Provence hit the mark. Now 90 per cent of all wine from this region is pink.
Côtes de Provence is the heartland, producing wine in dramatically beautiful vineyards that hug the slopes behind the coastal strip stretching from Marseille, almost to Cannes.
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Hide AdCoteaux d’Aix-en-Provence is further west, with the ancient city of Aix-en-Provence on the eastern edge of the area. Here the landscape is less dramatic, but also produces excellent wines.
Scattered through the region are small appellations, such as St. Victoire, Fréjus, and Pierrefeu which link to the highly prized name of Côtes de Provence but with slightly different nuances in their wines.
Because of the varied landscape across the region there is a huge range of soils and microclimates, not to mention the mistral wind which blows for days on end at frequent intervals during the year.
It is this natural, drying wind and the low rainfall makes this region so suitable for sustainable and organic cultivation. The grapes grown are a mixed bag of varieties including Grenache Noir, Cinsault, Carignan, Syrah, Cabernet and a local variety Tibouren which is used in the blend to add aroma and texture.
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Hide AdWine production in the region has stepped up, and so have prices, so many producers in surrounding areas have realised that they can make wines using the same grapes and techniques as in the Provence appellation at less cost. Places like the Rhône and the Languedoc are now making seriously good wines at more affordable prices.
Here are the results of my taste-off, arranged in order of best flavour for money.
Provence Pinks
M de Minuty Rosé 2023, Côtes de Provence, Waitrose £17.99 down to £13.49 on the 25% off a mix six deal until Tuesday 27 August: Get your skates on and stock up with this wine while it is on offer. It has a balanced purity of style, with summer fruit flavours, pink grapefruit and a crisp, sip-able finish.
Mirabeau Classic 2023, Côtes de Provence, Waitrose down from £13.99 to £10.49 on the 25% off a mix six deal until Tuesday 27 August: This has clear red berry fruit, a gentle balance of acidity and a long, refreshing finish. At the offer price it beats a lot of other wines, so stock up for the rest of the summer.
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Hide AdNude Pink by Mirabeau 2023, IGP Mediterranée, Co-op £10: Made by the Cronk family of Mirabeau who are based in Provence but also make wine from grapes sourced outside their hallowed Provence vineyards. This is a delightful, light rosé with soft strawberry fruit backed by pink grapefruit and watermelon freshness.
Terres Georges 2023, Vin de France, Anne-Marie and Roland Coustal, Hoults of Huddersfield £14: Rob Hoult constantly enthuses about this wine, and I thought he was exaggerating, but he isn’t, it is terrific. From a small family-owned property, the fruit, balance and texture are delicious.
Sainte Victoire Côtes de Provence 2023, France, Aldi £9.99: Remarkable flavours for the price. This starts off with just a hint of pink bubblegum, which clears to show ripe, strawberry and citrus fruit, with enough flavour to stand up to a plate of grilled fish and salad.
Rock Angel 2022, Côtes de Provence, Waitrose Cellar £26.99 down to £20.24 on the mix six deal until Tuesday 27 August: A step up from Whispering Angel, from the same property, this has more body, and flavour, still with minerality and freshness. For special occasions only, when there is lobster on your plate.
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Hide AdCh. Sainte Roseline Cru Classé Lampe de Meduse 2023, Côtes de Provence, Ocado £27: This comes from top vineyards of the region, awarded Cru Classé status in 1955, and the wine comes in an odd-shaped bottle, so people know you have spent serious money. Is it worth it? With much more flavour than many others it has weight and texture, making it definitely a foodie wine. There are red fruits, citrus, and a long, savoury, elegant finish. Expensive, impressive but maybe slightly over the top on price.
Notre Dames Des Anges 2023, Côtes de Provence, Asda £13, currently £10 on offer: Good fruit from its Grenache and Cinsault mix with just a shade of sweetness on the finish. Good value while on offer.
Pinks from further afield
Cono Sur Sauvignon Blush 2023, Chile, Asda and Morrisons around £7: This is a wine that isn’t trying to be anything other than fresh and delicious. If the barbecue is lit and your friends have arrived, this is a terrific value wine. Crisp, citrus and summer fruit flavours.
Côtes du Rhône Rosé 2022 Guigal, Campbells of Leyburn, £14: Guigal make terrific wines and this blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah is packed with crunchy, vibrant, crushed raspberry fruit. It is pale enough to be fashionable, but it has power too.
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Hide AdBaron de Ley Rosado de Lágrima 2022, Rioja, Asda £9.75 currently down to £8: 100% Garnacha grapes give this wine body and bags of strawberry fruit. There’s a touch of pepper, but thankfully, no oak.
The Best Vinho Verde Rosé 2023, Portugal, Morrisons £8 down to £7 until 3 September: With cranberry and raspberry fruit and a hint of spice. this has enough body to cope with an ice-cube or two as well as a decent lunch.
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