Zachary's, Pudsey

It could be argued that "hidden gems" should remain so, enjoyed by the lucky few who know their whereabouts; but some jewels shine too brightly not to be shared. The thing about this little family-run restaurant is that even when you know where it is, you'll get lost trying to find it.

Fulneck is a Moravian community, perched prettily on the edge of Pudsey, on the outskirts of Leeds, overlooking the rolling lushness of the Tong Valley. Religious settlers from Czechoslovakia landed in 1744 and built houses, schools and a chapel – now Grade 1 listed and one of the most significant buildings in Leeds. The private school retains its cachet. These days it's co-educational; formerly the sexes were separate, with Prime Minister Herbert Asquith and Avenger Diana Rigg attending. Not at the same time, obviously.

Fast forward a few centuries, and new settlers have landed. Zachary Addie, his wife Diane and mother Jenny can be found five nights a week at the eponymous restaurant in the heart of Fulneck, tucked away along a quiet, quaint cobbled street. This listed building has at different times been a shop, post office and caf, but now it's not just a family home (Zach and Diane and their three boys live "under the shop") but the setting for a remarkable venture.

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There's a classy informality in the dining room, with a pleasing mix of old and new; iron pillars holding up oak beams remain, while the funky upholstery shouts 21st century. The music is too loud (and too Celine Dion) but then I'm a grumpy old woman and can't abide background sound amped up any higher than 2.

Zachary's cheffing credentials are gold plated; he honed his considerable skills at the Devonshire Arms at Bolton Abbey, and they're very much in evidence here. They've used an interesting concept for the menu – one I've never seen before. A "dual" menu (14.95 for two courses, 19.95 for three) lets you choose from a dozen options either as a starter or main course, plus an la carte alternative.

Both are full of surprises and delights with an astute handling of ingredients. Local and seasonal are the watchwords here, with rabbit, Eshelby beef and pork making an appearance. Smoked haddock fishcake, poached hen's egg with wholegrain mustard dressing was my friend's first course; the cake bursting with flavour and a fat chunk of fish in every mouthful. It's another first time experience for me to eat braised beef risotto, broad beans and horseradish cream, and what a baptism! Divinely tender meat, perfectly cooked rice and a fluffy cloud of creamed horseradish – to use my mother's expression "light as angel's wings".

It's an unusual marriage of ingredients, and Zach pulls it off masterfully. Service is cheerful and unobtrusive; am I alone in relishing not being asked "is everything all right?" every 10 minutes?

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A glass of chilled Sauvignon is a fitting accompaniment; my friend drinks red and couldn't find the wine she wanted by the glass. No problem – a bottle of Tempranillo was opened without any fuss (as it happens she drank most of it anyway but that's another story). Our main course brings Eshelby sausage with bubble and squeak and onion sauce – a winter warmer on a plate.

I know it's spring, but the temperature outside had plummeted, so it absolutely hit the spot. Braised belly pork with cauliflower pure and sage sauce likewise; the meat succulent and gutsy, laced through with sage, and the only cheffy flourish of the evening – a slick of puree – but forgiven for its depth of flavour; again, perfectly judged. A bowl of veg arrives, with baby carrots, green beans, asparagus and new potatoes – crisp where they should be and tender where they shouldn't.

Puddings tend towards the school canteen, but with a twist; homemade vanilla rice pudding with butterscotch sauce is dense and heavenly, and

will make you forget the slop you will doubtless have been served up as a child, while white chocolate and raspberry brule, raspberry sorbet

and brandy snap makes you glad you're walking home.

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Talking of which; the red wine had clearly kicked in, because we got lost.

Remind me, I said. How long have you lived in Pudsey? Is it 25 years or 30? Whatever, as the young people say. I'll be finding my way back to Zachary's, one way or another.

Zachary's at Fulneck, 54 Fulneck, Pudsey, Leeds, LS28 8NT. 0113 256 4069. www.zacharys.co.uk

Open Tuesday to Thursday 6pm-9pm, Friday and Saturday 6pm-finish, Sunday 10am-3pm. Open for brunch the first Sunday of the month noon-4pm.

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Dual Menu: Two courses 14.95, three courses 19.95, side orders 3.

A la carte: starters from 6.50, mains from 17.50. Wine by the glass starts at 2.95, bottles start at 14.50. Sunday roast 12.50.

YP MAG 29/5/10

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