Corner of Yorkshire: The arduous 199 steps to Whitby Abbey are worth it for the views

It is said that people find it easier to climb the steep flight of stone steps ascending from the south bank of the River Esk to the famous ruin of Whitby Abbey by counting each and every one of them until they reach 199, thereby taking their minds off the strenuous exercise.
By Roger Ratcliffe
Published 22nd Jul 2024, 06:00 BST

The steps have long been a challenge to the town’s visitors, but the rewards for arriving at the top include a magnificent view across the river and harbour, an inspection of “Dracula’s graveyard” in front of St. Mary’s Church and, of course, a chance to look round the remains of the 12th century Benedictine monastery on the East Cliff.

Officially the steps date from 1340, but local historians believe they go back even further. Originally constructed from timber, in 1774 they were replaced with stone quarried at nearby Sneaton. There has been some debate about whether there are 199 steps or 200, and the preacher John Wesley counted 191 back in 1761.

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One explanation for the steps’ construction is that climbing them was meant to be a test of Christian faith. A similar test awaits Christians visiting the church of Cité Religieuse above the French village of Rocamadour, where there are 216 steps. Henry II of England once proved his devotion by crawling up what has become known as the Grand Escalier (the pilgrim’s staircase) on his hands and knees.

Whitby Abbey Steps.Whitby Abbey Steps.
Whitby Abbey Steps.

Several benches are placed at intervals on Whitby’s steps and they are gratefully used by many, but these were not originally intended to give weary visitors the chance of a rest. Until the churchyard was closed to burials in 1865, coffins were often carried up the steps, followed by mourners. Wooden planks were provided as places for the pall-bearers to rest coffins while they steeled themselves for the remainder of the climb.

Related topics:Whitby AbbeyYorkshire