I tried on dresses in a virtual fitting room as Leeds University and Yorkshire design duo explore fashion's future

There are landfill sites packed with clothes and bags and shoes, some of which might never have been worn, for heaven’s sake. It simply cannot be allowed to continue.

We know this. But, but, but … what about the desire, the need, for change, for newness? What about the joy, the self-esteem and the confidence to be gained from seeing and buying and wearing new clothes and accessories? How can this be satisfied?

Cue digital trying on. Could this be a solution, finding a dress or a top or a skirt you like on a website, clicking on it as you view yourself in a full-length mirror, then seeing it magically transposed onto your form, so that you can judge how it suits you, admire it, maybe share it on your social media?

I have experienced something like this, last year at a John Lewis press show, exploring digital trying-on as part of its fashion rental service.

It was fun, and gave a reasonably good idea of how a real version of, say, a maxi dress might look worn in the flesh. The dress moved as I moved - although, of course, I couldn’t touch the fabric, or feel the swish.

But could this replace the feeling of buying and wearing new clothes in reality?

“Digital try-on is an enjoyable experience in its own right, yet does not replace the desire for new clothes,” says John Sanderson of designer duo Cunnington & Sanderson, the fashion brand he runs with Matthew Cunnington from their studio in a converted jacquard mill in Silsden, West Yorkshire.

Cunnington & Sanderson have long been sustainable fashion pioneers, not least through their own zero waste designs, and their teaching of their draping techniques and creative pattern cutting at masterclass workshops at universities around the world (see @no_wasted_jam).

They have been working with SEAMM, a digital wardrobe and marketplace, to create an app featuring their designs, which can be tried on, and bought, in the digital world.

It’s suggested that this could be a way of finding newness and expressing personal style without adding to the clothes’ mountain. It can also play a role in the gaming world, where customers can buy a digital asset, such as a piece of clothing, for avatars, and trade them.

“The app allows people to be creative and works alongside the want and feeling of owning and wearing something new in real life,” says John.

Cunnington & Sanderson have co-curated an exhibition in Leeds currently running at the School of Design at the University of Leeds.

Called Wearing Sustainability - Untold Stories from Historical, Contemporary & Digital Fashion, fellow co-curators are Dr Anja Connor-Crabb, programme leader for BA Fashion Design Innovation at the University of Leeds, and Elaine Evans, programme leader for BA Fashion Design.

This is an immersive exhibition that challenges visitors to question their wardrobe choices, understand sustainable processes, cherish clothes, and be innovative and environmentally friendly.

It features treasures from the Yorkshire Fashion Archive alongside sustainable designs by Cunnington & Sanderson, and some visionary student work.

Visitors can explore fashion through Augmented Reality (AR), with SEAMM, trying on garments digitally, and discovering the journey of each piece with its Digital Product Passport (DPPs), accessed electronically to give a detailed overview of a product's lifecycle, including materials, production, supply chain, and environmental impact - heralding, perhaps, a more transparent fashion future.

Two pieces from the Yorkshire Fashion Archive have been digitally rendered to try on - a multi coloured, fair isle, hand-knitted pullover from 1948, and a Jean Muir gold leather jacket.

Cunnington & Sanderson also have digital garments to try on, as well as their real-life designs including, their Gown of Care, created from disposed PPE medical gowns, their denim dress made from pre-loved jeans, and their emotive story-telling pillow dress.

“There are many beneficial factors to wearing digital try-ons,” says John.

“The ability to try on the garment anywhere in the world at your own convenience, your desired time and environment, through your own mobile phone.

“The ability to see if the garment suits your style when worn, the ability to style and accessorise and colour coordinate with your own clothing.

“The ability to customise the digital wearable to your personal choice of colours and patterns.

“Garments can be worn and tried on before purchasing; this alleviates impulsive buying and encourages more considered choices, and helps to prevent unnecessary purchases which can save the brand or supplier time, wasted stock and postage costs.”

Meanwhile, the International Circular Fashion Week Conference is taking place on May 21-22 at The Knowledge Exchange at Leeds Beckett University, bringing together industry professionals, thought leaders and emerging designers to explore innovative approaches to circularity in fashion.

It has been organised by Andrea Benahmed Djilali, an award-winning slow fashion designer and founder of Circular Fashion Incubator CIC.

"The global fashion industry is at a turning point,” she says. “As the devastating impact of fast fashion becomes increasingly evident, designers, activists, and educators are stepping forward to create solutions that prioritise sustainability and circularity."

There will be speakers and panellists including global leaders in sustainable fashion, circular economy specialists, and forward-thinking designers who are shaping the future of the industry.

Interactive workshops will give practical insight into textile recycling, zero-waste design and ethical production through hands-on sessions with experienced professionals.

Textile art exhibitions will allow attendees to experience the work of talented textile artists who transform waste into beauty, plus there are films and documentaries, and a fashion show and VIP party.

Visit circularfashionincubator.co.uk.

Wearing Sustainability - Untold Stories from Historical, Contemporary & Digital Fashion is at Space@Design Gallery, Clothworkers Central, School of Design, University of Leeds. It runs 9am to 4pm until May 28 and entry is free.