Our fashion editor's key autumn/winter 2025 trends from capes and pencil skirts to THAT M&S cow print jacket

The shadow of lockdown and its aftermath have been dominating what we wear, with those early, home-to-garden easy outfits gradually morphing into classic, understated, multi-purpose investment dressing. It all got a bit boring, frankly.

So it is a relief to see that fashion has had a word with itself and is endeavouring to inject a bit more provocation and fun, not least with collections that challenge so-called algorithm dressing, that is, choosing outfits based on social media algorithms, selected to resonate with your social network, resulting in an all-pervasive sameness of look.

A great example is the “crazy frumpy lady” aesthetic. Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu brought out dowdy skirt suits and quirky knitwear, while Simone Rocha’s collection was described by Vogue as “headteacher-meets-Barbarella”.

To get the look right in real life will no doubt prove difficult, but hey, it's full of character and quirkiness, so what’s not to love? Start by seeking out school shoes, and work from the ground up.

Other AW25 trends, it has to be said, are re-runs or evolutions of what has gone before. Fashion always does this, of course, but the trick is to remake with thought and intent, so that updates have meaning.

Look out for Quiet Luxury antidotes in the form of faux fur, leopard print, naked dressing and the return of the logo tee.

It’s not all fun and frolics out there, so worry not, ye who prefer your classic elegance and your basics and your neutrals and your capsule wardrobes, because there is a lot of that on offer too, starting with new tailoring - or Tailoring 2.0, as it is being called - with updated cuts, lengths and details, plus the return of the pencil skirt and the pencil skirt suit.

Plus there is an ultra-feminine take to throw into the mix with new lace options )and, on the High Street and online, the printed dress is far from over).

There is also lots and lots of brown, especially chocolate tones, another trend that has been evolving over recent seasons and shows no sign of fading soon.

Here is what to look out for to get into the groove for autumn/winter 2025 fashion:

Chocolate Brown … is the new black: Or the new dark wardrobe basic neutral, providing a grounding base colour, or taking centre stage and going head to toe. Brown is everywhere for autumn, from evening wear to outerwear to wardrobe basics - a brown shirt or polo is a piece to buy now. On the catwalks, Stella McCartney showed a brown strapless ballgown, and there was brown leather at Victoria Beckham and brown faux fur at Gucci.

Punk 2025: A nostalgic take on Seventies and Eighties rebellion, with far less rebellion but with tartans and plaids (check out Burberry), military and leather jackets, snake print, ruffled blouses and a smattering of bondage buckles. Mix in vintage pieces if you want a more authentic look.

Leopard print: It never really dies out, due to its flattering, striking and easy-to-style tones of black, brown and golden but it is everywhere for autumn/winter 2025, on knits, dresses, accessories and suits. Fendi showed a leopard skirt suit teamed with leopard boots and a leopard bag, but feel free simply to add a touch, if you don’t want to overdo it - leopard-print belts, shoes and bags will lift many a look. Throw on an argyle knit for fun.

Faux fur: Again, this has been climbing up the charts for many seasons, but this time it’s hit the trend jackpot as a key look for 2025, with most designers on the international runways including it in their collections, from floor-sweeping coats to bags and wraps. Simone Rocha has a natty faux-fur co-ord, so look out for the faux stuff cropping up in all sorts of surprising ways.

OR, the playfully chic M&S Cow Print Faux Fur Trucker Jacket, £69, is flying out the doors so take a look, before it’s gone.

Capes: Capes and cape shapes were all over the catwalks and are a fashion trend that filters easily on to the High Street, perfect for those who like to keep their style voluminous with a strong and striking silhouette. Look out also for scarf coats and scarf jackets, and other designs with attached scarves (the ideal is surely a coat that has a detachable scarf).

Pencil skirts: A diversion from the new tailoring looks we are seeing on the AW25 catwalks, the pencil skirt - and especially, on the international runways, the pencil skirt suit - brought a fresh elegance and feminine to autumn fashion, with calf-length, fitted skirts also teamed with knits and blouses. This can tie in well with the fabulously frumpy lady vibe, especially if you pair with school-marmish brogues - think Miss Marple meets Helena Bonham Carter.

There is also a Nineties-inspired minimalist take with striped and grey tailored skirt suits teamed with pumps and glossy handbags. A simple way to wear is to first pick your skirt (I am favouring check and tweedy looks) and pair it with a white shirt. Footwear to be decided.

Tailoring 2.0: New silhouettes have emerged, especially elegantly structured looks, for example, Sarah Burton for Givenchy’s jackets with nipped-in waistlines. John Lewis has a range of silhouettes from fitted to boxy, with statement detailing, Channel the heritage trend in a check suit and wear with suede trainers. Look out for cord suiting too.

Slouchy bags and school shoes: Squishy bags are the carrying accessory of the season, especially in suede, slung over the shoulder (check out Joe Browns for a gorgeous burgundy option). Meanwhile, sensible brogues and loafers offer practical on-trend footwear options.

NEXT WEEK: See more of the brilliant new M&S AW25 womenswear collection.