'We were inspired by David Hockney and Salts Mill to create luxury unisex cashmere'
Salts Cashmere is a new unisex clothing label inspired by the legacy of Salts Mill and the spirit of David Hockney, as founders Martin Parker and Austen Pickles tell Yorkshire Post Fashion Editor Stephanie Smith.
There is a new Yorkshire cashmere brand on the block - and it intends to change the way we feel about the luxury yarn – as well as the way we wear it. “Cashmere can feel quite precious and traditional,” says Salts Cashmere co-founder Martin Parker.
“I wanted to create something democratic – elevated but easy, expressive but wearable. Pieces that reflect real life and real style, not gender or rules.”
The debut collection features 100 per cent cashmere, recycled blends, and cotton-cashmere knits in unisex silhouettes designed to appeal across gender, age, and personal style. Prices range from £90 to £400.
There are rugby jumpers, relaxed cardigans, oversized wraps, collared tanks and more. Bold colour and stripes feature strongly and the collection has in part been inspired by the work of David Hockney.
Parker says: “His quote, ‘I’m always excited by the unlikely, never by the ordinary,’ sums up the energy we’ve tried to capture.”
Meanwhile, Salts co-founder and CEO Austen Pickles says: “Fashion is a people business. Clothing is the outcome. But to succeed in this industry takes grit.”
The brand has also been inspired by the story of Salts Mill, in Saltaire. “I grew up in Bingley and visited Salts Mill on school trips – I’ve known the story of Titus Salt since I was ten,” says Pickles, whose first made-to-measure business was also called Salts.
“Years later, we based one of our businesses there. The mill’s spirit of innovation, community and industry has stayed with me ever since.”
Parker says: “All production was under one roof - from fibre to fabric - and this is exactly how our cashmere supplier works - from goat to garment.
Between them, Parker and Pickles have clocked up more than 50 years in fashion. Parker is a former head of design for several UK retailers, Including Pure Collection. Salts grew from his menswear label Cut & Pin.
Pickles began his career on the shop floor of a Bradford worsted mill. In 2001, he founded Buxton Pickles, a supplier of premium womenswear to the likes of Jigsaw, Paul Smith, Hobbs, Jaeger, Whistles and LK Bennett.
Today, he is CEO of Northern Apparel, which is the UK division of $2bn global fashion platform PDS Group, supplying retailers including Next, George, Boden, Spoke, Hobbs, Brook Taverner and TK Maxx.
Parker says: “We met when I was heading up the design team at Pure Collection to which Austen’s company supplied tailoring. We always kept in touch and when Cut&Pin was for sale, Austen could see a big potential opportunity, so Northern Apparel acquired the brand.
“I joined his team to head up Northern Brands, which is the part of the Northern Apparel business which includes Cut&Pin, Salts and another label called Subtract, which we are working on.”
Salts clothes are produced from cashmere goat to finished garment in partnership with a fully vertical, family-owned Mongolian manufacturer. This, says Parker, means it can deliver superior softness in smaller runs with lower environmental impact.
“For me, sustainability means thoughtful production, lasting quality, and respect for craftsmanship,” says Parker. “We’ve worked with this supplier for years. It’s not just about where you manufacture – it’s how you do it.
“There are a lot of questionable cashmere suppliers but the factory I work with produces Grade A cashmere and are proud pioneers of ethical manufacturing.
"Water used for washing and dying is all purified before being discharged, and sustainable grazing practices are used to regenerate the grasslands and maintain biodiversity. The whole production process has been certified Organic by GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard).
“I have visited the factory many times and seen the processes first-hand. The owners have become very good friends, and I am very proud to be associated with this plant.”
Pickles says he hopes there is a consumer shift towards more considered clothing choices on the horizon. “It would definitely be nice to think that, as consumers become better educated about the impact of how and where their clothes are made, that we will see an increase in the use of sustainable natural fibres," he says.
“It’s just a shame that fast fashion can be produced so cheaply, because a large segment of consumers will sacrifice environmental concerns for a disposable outfit to wear for a couple of nights out and a quick TikTok or Instagram post.
“Another really encouraging shift in consumer behavior is the growth of pre-loved and vintage shopping like Vinted or Vestiaire. After all, the most sustainable clothes are those that are worn until they wear out.
“I’ve been in the business for over 30 years now and have seen a huge shift in fashion and consumer demands.
“Online retail is by far the biggest change and in many ways this gives an advantage to launching a brand like Salts because we do not have bricks and mortar stores to showcase our product.”
Pickles says he can see a slow return to the high street, particularly in market towns. “I think this is really encouraging. We are all human and we like to touch and feel the clothes we are buying.”
He says that following the launch this month on salts-cashmere.com, soon after the brand will launch on a large UK retailer’s e-commerce platform. “As the brand gains recognition and our collection increases, we hope to sell into small independents and stores that share our ethos. Eventually, we will also add pre-loved Salts cashmere to our website.”
@saltscashmere | www.salts-cashmere.com