Pembrokeshire: Shore winner

PHIL Harrison takes his children to the favourite coast of his childhood and relives some happy memories.

WHAT was a long and, at times, baking journey down to the Pembrokeshire coast from the suburbs of Leeds proved more than worthwhile on our arrival. For me, it was a long overdue return to the holidays of my childhood when, every other year, my brother and I would be packed into the back of our parents’ modest saloon car among all the holiday necessities that couldn’t be squeezed into the boot to head to my favourite aunt’s spacious house in South Wales.

This time, accompanied by my own small family, we were to be based in equally spacious accommodation, this time a single-storey log cabin two miles from the picturesque fishing port of Porthgain. For the next week, our slightly isolated cabin in the heart of the Pembrokeshire countryside would be our base from where we could explore what the county had to offer more than 20 years on from my last visit.

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I was keen to show my wife – herself an occasional visitor to the region as a child – and then 16-month-old son the places that had entertained me through my childhood during the 1970s and early 80s, while also being intrigued to see how, if at all, they had changed.

We were also keen to discover what other attractions and places of interests were on offer, which had no doubt been missed on our regular visits to the area all those years ago.

It has to be said, sunshine was a somewhat rare treat during our week in Pembrokeshire, much as it seemed to be in the rest of the UK, and while that may have slightly curtailed our willingness to try and launch yet another new health drive by taking regular coastal walks, it certainly didn’t hinder our ability to make the most of our surroundings.

Our visit coincided with the back end of Pembrokeshire Fish Week – somewhat lucky for us as it is one of our favourite dishes. Once a year, towards the end of June, the county celebrates one of its more prosperous industries, which also doubles as one of the main attractions for a healthy percentage of those who visit the area regularly.

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Whether it’s a guided beach walk, looking for crabs and other shellfish, sampling the freshest local produce at the county’s restaurants and pubs all week long – from local lobster to fresh crab salads – or plucking up the courage to take one of the many boat trips to take part in the many sea angling contests or, if you’re more like me, attending the more sedate learn-to-fish sessions.

Even a relaxed simple courtyard gathering for a somewhat damp barbecue on a Sunday afternoon provides an enjoyable and tasty insight into the local produce.

While Pembrokeshire Coast National Park dominates the area in terms of tourism, the contrasting towns of St Davids and Tenby – also opposites in terms of location – are the stand-out and, seemingly, most popular areas.

First on the list was a visit to St Davids, a place I had only visited briefly as a youngster. It was within six miles of our accommodation and took up the best part of one of our days. Granted city status in 1995, due to the cathedral of the same name which dominates the area, St Davids has plenty of things going for it – not least the cream teas which are as good as anything in Devon and Cornwall.

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While a walk around should take no more than a couple of hours, there is plenty to explore slightly further beyond the centre by way of wildlife and award-winning beaches – Whitesands Bay in particular. By way of contrast to the relaxed way of life in and around St Davids, the resort town of Tenby, less than 30 miles away in the attractive Carmarthen Bay, is where to head for if you want a faster pace – whatever your age.

Always a favourite place to spend a day or two during my many visits to South Wales years ago, it’s easy to see why, even after 20 years, that was the case. Put simply, Tenby remains one of the most rewarding places to visit for a family holiday.

After spending the best part of the day on one of the resort’s three beaches, it is only a short walk into the town centre to sample the many restaurants and cafes that are around and which later help transform the town centre into an area full of vibrant nightlife.

Of course, should the heavens open while in the area, the beaches are somewhat out of bounds, although in the nearby Folly Farm Adventure Park and Zoo – recently voted Best Family Day Out in Wales – there is a perfect, ready-made alternative.

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The outdoor zoo itself can easily fill a couple of hours but, should the rains come, the Vintage Funfair and Jolly Barn – full of farmyard animals – provide some welcome indoor relief. And, perhaps most importantly for those with children of all ages, Carousel Woods – surely one of the biggest indoor play areas around – helps make sure those youngsters end the day on a tired, yet ultimately fulfilled note, much like how visiting Pembrokeshire probably leaves visitors of all ages feeling.

GETTING THERE

* Phil Harrison’s trip to Wales was made possible thanks to the help of Visit Wales. Go to www.visitwales.co.uk or 08708 300 306.

* The Strumble Lodge log cabin accommodation was provided courtesy of Ceri Price at St Brides Bay Cottages. Go to www.stbridesbaycottages.com or 01437 720027.

* Pembrokeshire Fish Week 2011 will last from today until July 3. www.pembrokeshire.gov.uk

* Folly Farm Adventure Park and Zoo is open all year. For prices and details go to www.folly-farm.co.uk or 01834 812731.

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