Treasured island

I remember the first time I set eyes on Herm Island. I was sitting the deck of the Trident Ferry, the only means of making the three-mile crossing from Guernsey, watching the tiny island come into view bathed in May sunshine.

I had been somewhat sceptical about the trip. I had a teething toddler, was accompanied by my in-laws and had predicted the usual British holiday weather of cloud, if you were lucky, and more likely rain. Lots of rain. Apart from the teething toddler, I could not have been more wrong.

Herm captured my heart as it seems to have everyone who has ever visited this smallest Channel Island open to the public. At one and a half miles long and less than half a mile wide Herm is the jewel in the crown and those who have discovered its secret are keen to keep it so.

More than 85 per cent of visitors are repeat guests. In high season getting a room at the White House Hotel, one of the cottages or even a tent on the stunningly located Seagull Campsite is nigh on impossible.

Following that first visit some eight years ago, we have returned four times with our children who never tire of the golden beaches and freedom they are never afforded at home.

As well as being breathtakingly beautiful, with uninterrupted view of neighbours Sark, Alderney and on a clear day France, Herm is also safe, and for any parents that is a top priority.

Like its neighbour Sark, cars are banned on Herm, well there are no roads. So you can let your children wander freely. Unlike Sark bikes are also banned, in fact the only way to get around is on foot, which with toddlers can be a challenge. The walk from the harbour and small island centre – which boasts one hotel, Windmill Tavern, Ship Inn and a gift shop – is steep and involves ice cream bribery to get small legs to the top.

Luckily the staff are allowed to use a tractor to transport luggage up to the campsite and cottages which are dotted across the island, but the sheer beauty of the view is sure to take your breathe away if the ascent hasn’t.

During my first visit we stayed in the White House Hotel which feels like it hasn’t changed since the 1940s. You still have to dress for dinner, and gentlemen have to wear a tie. However, for the last five years we have rented a tent on the hilltop Seagull Campsite. You can pitch you own tents or rent, as we do, one of the ready pitched tents which come equipped with airbeds or camp beds, camping stove, pans and for a small charge a cool box.

You can also order a supply of groceries from an extensive list before your arrival which will be delivered to your tent.

Like much of Herm the campsite has a slightly dog-eared charm, but it is clean and well-maintained with an on-site warden to keep the noise down. Another plus is that it is only open to families and no single sex groups.

Although there is no play area anywhere on the island, one of the great joys for us is that the children have to make their own fun, exploring the campsite and the golden beaches. Our favourite is Beauvoir Bay, sheltered by the cliffs behind and lapped by azure – if rather cold – seas (wetsuits for small children recommended).

A 15-minute stroll along the coastal path from Belvoir Bay brings you to the long, expanse of Shell Beach, which is great for rock pooling.

You can hire kayaks to view Herm from the sea or if history is your thing then there is no shortage of that on Herm which boasts a colourful past.

In the 16th-century it was home to monks, before being used until 1737 as a playground by the governors of Guernsey who would come to shoot rabbits.

After it was liberated on May 9, 1945, from the Nazis, the States of Guernsey bought Herm from the Crown so it could be enjoyed by everyone. The States leased the island to a tenant who is expected to maintain it for the benefit of visitors.

The most influential tenant was Major Peter Wood who, with his wife Jenny, moved to Herm from Yorkshire with their two young children in 1949. The couple worked with the States of Guernsey to transform Herm into a holiday retreat, but the family decided a new owner was needed and put the lease up for sale for a reported £15m in 2008.

There were fears among the locals that it might be bought by a luxury hotel chain, but in the end a Guernsey couple, John and Julia Singer who had their first date on the island 14 years previously, stumped up.

The island’s charm is that it is stuck in something of a time warp. Long may this continue.

Getting there

Located three miles from Guernsey in the Channel Islands, Herm is easily accessible from the UK by either air or sea from its neighbour.

The only way to get to Herm is via Guernsey, arriving there either by sea or air and then a 20-minute ferry ride to the island

Aurigny run daily flight from East Midlands airport, direct to Guernsey and twice daily flights from Manchester to Guernsey.

Bookings can be made at aurigny.com or for a full short break package, book at aurignybreaks.com or call 08444 937 503

For more information on all holiday accommodation on Herm visit www.herm-island.com