A little piece of Britain in the middle of the ocean
Unlike its famous former inhabitant, Napoleon Bonaparte, Mike hasn’t been exiled to the isolated UK Overseas Territory only accessible by ship, he chose to go there a year ago.
But since the end of June, the ship the St Helena, has been in dry dock, meaning no means of getting on and off the island, or getting supplies to the 4,000 inhabitants.
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Hide Ad“It does mean that some things have been in short supply,” says the 54-year-old father-of-two.
“But you just have learn a whole new way of shopping. You cannot go in to the supermarkets and shops and expect to find everything on the shelves you would find at home. You learn which days of the week to go shopping for what. If you want a range of vegetables then you need to shop on a Thursday. Bread is also hard to come by, but on the plus side you also learn to use local produce much more. There’s never a shortage of fresh fish, especially tuna.”
For the last year Mike has been heading up the island’s tourism development team as much-anticipated plans to build an airport look set to go ahead.
He decided to take the job, which meant leaving behind his wife Diane and their home of 17 years in Wigglesworth, near Settle.
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Hide Ad“I thought I can do that,” explains Mike. “Our daughters were grown up and left home and I felt it was a once in a lifetime opportunity and I thought that I could really make a difference.” Mike’s background is in the travel industry having worked for a number of big tour operators over the years.
Being a British territory, there are many reminders of home around.
“We have the Royal Mail here and so there are post boxes all over the island. The police are British and so wear the same uniform as at home.”
The friendliness of the people, the Saints as they call themselves, also stopped Mike being too homesick.
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Hide Ad“There is a real sense of community here, as there is in Settle, and I was welcomed straight away. I was never on my own; there were always people asking me out for dinner. I run a local radio programme and am involved in the local church. It may be a long way from home but it isn’t all that different in a lot of ways.”
But unlike the UK there are only three television channels, the climate is temperate and it always gets dark at 6.30pm no matter what the time of year.
And hardest of all for Mike is that there is no brewery on the island.
“All the beer is imported from South Africa and is lager. I am really looking forward to a pint of Black Sheep.”
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Hide AdAfter nine months of Mike being on his own, Diane gave up her job and moved out to St Helena where she hopes to start work as a music teacher soon.
A problem at home meant Diane had to return to the UK, which really brought home how remote St Helena really is. She got home relatively quickly but it still took her five days.
The couple are returning to Yorkshire next month, but plan to return to St Helena in October as Mike’s job becomes more crucial.
“The nature of the job has changed a lot,” he explains. “When I came out we were looking purely at developing the seaborne tourism.
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Hide Ad“But almost as soon as I’d been appointed the UK government gave an indication that it wanted to build an airport here. There has been a lot of work over the last year working towards that objective.
“The island has been promised an airport several times in the past, but it really looks like it is going to happen this time.”
If the airport does go ahead it will have major implications for St Helena.
At the moment the number of tourists is less than 1,500 a year but the opening of an airport could quadruple that number in the next 10 years without undermining the essential way of life and natural attractions of St Helena.
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Hide AdA project to build a new airport has been actively considered for the last seven years. In October 2008, a preferred bidder was selected as a potential contractor to construct the airport, which was scheduled for completion and opening in 2012. In 2008 the Government requested a pause in the negotiations with the contractor and in March 2009 announced a further consultation. A total of 70 per cent of respondents favoured the immediate construction of an airport. In July 2010, the new coalition Government announced that an airport represented the most cost-effective method of ensuring access to the island and indicated that the contract would be re-tendered. The airport is unlikely to be completed before 2015.
“Tourism is very important for the economic future of the island as they don’t have any natural resources. It is all about encouraging people to come here to enjoy the island and all its attractions. But it all has to be well-managed and planned to be in keeping with the island. Its main attractions are the environment, the wildlife and of course its history, everyone knows it is where Napoleon was exiled. The landscape is spectacular and the last thing we want is to build high-rise mass-market resorts. We want to make sure that any development is very environmentally friendly and sustainable and I am working with other government department to ensure that happens. We have the opportunity to get things right and to think about green issues right from the start
“It’s all about balance and we want to make sure that everyone on the island can benefit from any future tourism.”
Mike’s contract is for two years but it will be up to the St Helena and UK governments as to whether this is extended.
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Hide Ad“If the airport does go ahead I would be very keen to stay to make sure that all the things we are working on at the moment are delivered. It’s worth every penny and every ounce of effort it takes to get here.”
NOTES ON A SMALL ISLAND
St Helena is an Overseas Territory of the United Kingdom, with its own legislature and a high degree of internal self-government. It is an island of 47 square miles (122 sq.km) situated 1,200 miles off the west coast of Africa. Currently the only access to the island is by sea, via the ship RMS St Helena, plus a number of cruise ships and yachts.
Best known as the place of Napoleon Bonaparte’s exile, it has been fought over among nations, and has a fascinating war history, a total of 6,000 Boer prisoners were imprisoned on the Island. Other famous faces to reach its shores over the years include the likes of Charles Darwin, Captain Cook, and renowned astronomer Edmund Halley.