A pint at the classic Dales pub that has everything

As you may know, I make my living walking from pub to pub in the Yorkshire Dales. It’s a tough job, but someone’s got to do it.

There are some perks, though, namely that I have now visited every pub in the Yorkshire Dales – all in the name of research, of course.

It’s a good job I like going to pubs. But not any old pub. I’m talking classic country pubs that are steeped in history and character, pubs that form an integral part of British history, culture and heritage.

I am often asked which is my favourite pub. This is a difficult question, as it is such a subjective preference; and it also depends on what you are looking for – good food, local beer selection, plenty of charm and character, or a combination of all of these, plus a few more.

But the quintessential Dales pub? Now that’s easy.

The classic Dales’ pub has to have stone-flagged floors, low doorways, oak beams, cosy corners, open fires and hand-pulled Yorkshire ales, all set within stone walls that just ooze character. On top of this, it needs friendly, attentive staff and just a bit of quirkiness. The Craven Arms at Appletreewick has all of these attributes and some more as well.

The walking around Appletreewick is brilliant, with a range of routes to suit all, from riverside rambles to more energetic hikes to the summit of Simon’s Seat.

I had opted for a leisurely riverside family walk, followed by Sunday lunch at the Craven Arms. Beside the front door of the Craven Arms hangs the Weather Stone, which, on my visit, was accurately forecasting the weather; it wasn’t raining (stone dry) and it was sunny (shadow on wall).

Inside, it is a warren of rooms. There is a small bar where you can still play Ring the Bull, an ancient pub game.

The main bar boasts gas lighting and a beautiful cast iron range, with a photograph above it of how the fireplace looked in 1935, which was just the same as today.

Then there’s a dining room, snug and the magnificent Cruck Barn, which was built in 2007 using construction methods not seen in the Dales since medieval times.

This building is supported by massive bent (or crooked, hence ‘cruck’) oak trees, its roof timbers thatched with heather and insulated with wool. This pub is a living museum of the people and buildings of the Dales.

I perched on a barstool where a famous posterior had also once perched, for on it is written ‘Sue Ellen Sat Here’.

I surveyed the wicket of beer pumps and the half dozen local ales and then I struck gold, not of the Ewing Dallas variety but a pint of Moorhouse’s Blond Witch, a pale golden ale with an initial sweetness that was quickly followed by a lingering hoppy bitterness.

The bar staff were attentive, friendly and knowledgeable, but also understated and to the point, a nice combination. There was a blackboard beside the bar that said “Our Brilliant Staff Today Are...”

But the highlight of the pub, for me, was the Gents or, more precisely, the Inspirational Gents. All around the walls are framed photographs of the good and the great, and then, in the corner, is a blank frame with the words “this space is waiting for you to do something inspirational.” Food for thought, although a walk through Wharfedale is always inspirational, followed by a visit to this quintessential Dales pub.

Craven Arms Dales pub facts

Craven Arms, tel 01756 720270 visit www.craven-cruckbarn.co.uk

Opening Hours:Monday & Tuesday: 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm. Wednesday to Sunday: open all day

Food: superb selection. Real Ales: choice of six ales, including Dark Horse Brewery’s Cruck Barn Bitter. Walkers, dogs and boots welcome.

Mark Reid is author of The Inn Way guidebooks. www.innway.co.uk.

He offers a range of guided walks, map reading courses and outdoor activities in the Dales.

For more details visit www.teamwalking.co.uk