'I was convinced we were about to drive off the edge of the world' - Julian Norton
I’ve been up and down Sutton Bank more times than I can count. The first time is still etched in my mind.
Sitting on the black vinyl back-seat of a Ford Cortina, I was convinced we were about to drive off the edge of the world. A five-year-old from Castleford had never seen such a steep hill nor such a magnificent view. We were returning to West Yorkshire after a trip to the seaside and this was an alternative route to the more direct journey, via Malton. There was some screaming from the back seat that day, but the gradient and hairpin bends were skilfully negotiated by my dad, who was at the wheel.
At that time, I had no idea that I would be travelling up and down the same road almost every day of my working life. Sutton bank marks the edge of the North York Moors National Park nearest to Thirsk and it therefore offered the easiest route to farms at the “top o’ bank”. There were other ways up; shorter, steeper and more twisty White Horse Bank had much less scope for managing oncoming traffic, while Wass bank was suitable if I was heading towards Helmsley. The “caravan route”, avoiding the steep hairpin on Sutton Bank, ascended the relatively gentle incline above Ampleforth but took much longer. If there was no ice or snow, and if I was heading to Hawnby or beyond, I’d opt for Boltby Bank, otherwise known as Sneck Yate.
The climate is very different up there. On a day that was grey and murky down in Thirsk, in the Vale of York, you’d often pop out above the clouds and witness the most amazing blue sky, a bit like being the pilot of a plane. On other days, when it felt temperate down below, you’d find yourself in the middle of an icy cloud on arrival at the top and turning towards the aptly named Cold Kirby. And at the start of a weekend on call, I would often pause at the top of the bank to take in the expansive view, thinking “All those animals are under my care.” Although, obviously that was probably a slight exaggeration, but it felt good. I loved that responsibility.
All this time, I have not been aware of the military history associated with Sutton Bank. I discovered recently that it was the site of a significant battle between the Scots and the English. Back in 1322, this was where an epic clash known as The Battle of Byland took place. Robert the Bruce made an impulsive attack to try and capture King Edward II at Rievaulx Abbey, but the King sent troops to Sutton Bank to prevent the Scots from advancing. Any cyclist who has been up the bank (its gradient is 25%) is fully aware of the challenges of getting to the top. And in those days, there was no tarmac. The attacking Scots struggled, as the English army could throw rocks and fire arrows from above. But then came a master stroke whereby the attackers outflanked the English by moving round Roulston Scar and in from the south. Nowadays, this is where the village of Oldstead is situated although I don’t know if there were many inhabitants back then. The King escaped but the English army suffered a defeat. In the aftermath, Edward struggled to continue the war and the following year agreed a truce with Bruce. Five years later, Scottish independence and Bruce’s kingship were both formally recognised.
Since arriving to work in Thirsk in 1996- and even before when I was just five- I have loved the imposing significance of this route up onto the moors. But it seems Sutton Bank was even more important just over seven hundred years ago.