Durham Dales: We took a visit to the historic, stunning and unexplored Dales - but not in Yorkshire

Head to the Heritage Coast and then to the often overlooked Durham Dales to find another, often unexplored, side to this wonderful county. Liz Coggins went on a voyage of discovery.

Think of Durham and the The Cathedral, Castle and Beamish Museum springs to mind but there’s so much more to discover in the Land of Priest Bishops.

Head to The Durham Heritage Coast with its dramatic coastline, clifftop walks and beaches with breathtaking views or The Durham Dales with stunning landscapes, meandering rivers, picturesque villages, market towns historic buildings and castles.

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Our voyage of discovery started at the Five Star Seaham Hall and Serenity spa. This former Georgian mansion, set in 37 acres of gardens is the epitome of sophistication and tranquility.

Durham DalesDurham Dales
Durham Dales

Seaham Hall is where the poet Lord Byron courted his future bride Anne Isabella Milbanke and married there in 1814.

In the immaculate landscaped gardens are sheer bliss with summer houses, woodland escapes and trails, sunken gardens with fountains, a lily pond with a floating pier, and the largest terrace you could wish for all accompanied by the sound and views of the sea

We stayed in a spacious Junior Suite with views over the gardens. The chic design, décor, colour schemes and beautifully curated fabrics were amazing.

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With a king size bed, a large comfortable seating area and a luxurious bathroom this was a room to remember’.

Raby Castle, Park and GardensRaby Castle, Park and Gardens
Raby Castle, Park and Gardens

Our packed itinerary began with a stroll down Byrons Walk, named after the poet who walked this route most days on his way to the cliffs.

Standing on the cliff top it was love at first sight for me with the Durham Heritage coast as I gazed at the imposing headlands, sparkling sea and golden sandy beaches.

The cliff top has steps down to the middle promenade and the pristine beach. We were tempted to walk on the beach to the marina but as we hadn’t checked the tide times we took the cliff top route..

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For those who love walking the 11 mile Coastal Footpath starts at Seaham and finishes the village of Crimdon or starting and finishing at the martina there is a 5 kilometer Seaham Heritage Tour.

Seaham Hall Dining RoomSeaham Hall Dining Room
Seaham Hall Dining Room

The marina houses The East Durham Heritage and Lifeboat Centre that explores Seaham’s rich heritage and historic lifeboat wrecked in 1962 or to learn or improve Paddle Boarding or Kayaking skills there’s Adventure Access.

Seaham dates back to Saxon times and St. Mary’s Parish Church founded around 600AD is one of the few Viking churches still standing in the country and an interesting place to visit.

Our day had started early so the multi award winning Serenity Spa beckoned in the afternoon with is Zen garden, outdoor hot tubs, roof terrace, 20 metre pool, cocktail bar and its own Pan Asian Restaurant to name but a few of its excellent facilities.

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The jewel in its crown of this spa is its unique entrance for hotel residents . Exit your room, walk into an antrum, descend a glass staircase and doors open, as if by magic, revealing a beautifully lit wooden walkway with soft music and water running gently over pebbles until you reach the gold elephant and your spa experience begins.

Later all refreshed we had cocktails on the terrace and ate in the Dining Room , one of the best on the Durham restaurant scene. The menu is packed with tantalising seasonal favourites from handpicked local suppliers. After dinner our evening ended as it began with drinks on the terrace in the moonlight until long after the bewitching hour.

Next morning after a hearty breakfast we headed for the Durham Dales one of England’s areas of outstanding beauty situated between the Yorkshire Dales and the Northumberland National Park.

Driving down quiet country lanes the vista captivated us changing from wild open moors, dramatic dales and hills to valleys and meandering rivers set against quaint villages and market towns.

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We eventually arrived at Raby Castle set in 200 acres of parkland with its herds of red and fallow deer and one of the most impressive in tact castles in England

Built by the Neville family in the 14th century it was the birthplace of Cecily Neville the mother of two English Kings but has been the family home of the Vanes for 400 years. The “Risings” restoration project at Raby has seen historic buildings renovated and given new and exciting purposes.

The 18th century walled garden has been remodelled by world renowned Luciano Glubbilei alongside Lady Barnard, which includes a tiered grass amphitheatre. The castle is filled with superb collections and tells the unique history of the place and the people who lived there.

Raby is a place where you want to linger as there is so much to see but our next destination was High Force Waterfall, one of the most famous in the UK situated in Upper Teesdale beckoned We stayed at the High Force Hotel a former coaching inn that dates back to the early 1820’s.

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An ideal country retreat it’s full of rustic charm with superb service and a warm and welcoming ambience. Our large ensuite room had great views of the countryside and a décor that combined the traditional with a contemporary touch.

We dined in the oak panelled Garden Room. There was a great choice of locally sourced superbly crafted dishes on the menu which were superbly cooked and presented to the highest order.

Next morning after a delicious well served breakfast we crossed the road and took the circular woodland walk to the awe-inspiring 21 metre cascade viewing point that is High Force Waterfall and then continued through the magical waterfall woodland.

All too soon it was time to say goodbye to Durham after only scratching the surface of what it has to offer there is no doubt that I will.

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