From Venice to Athens aboard a tall ship

Not many ships could sail past the $450m superyacht Opera owned by an Abu Dhabi royal and promptly steal the show. All eyes which were on the Opera just outside Corfu harbour were very quickly switched to Star Flyer, and who can blame them? Class versus crass.

We were on board for a stunning 11-day mission between Venice and Athens with stop-offs most days at ports in Croatia, Montenegro and Greece.

So, what’s the highlight of this tall ship? The ports of call, including Dubrovnik, Corfu and beautiful Kotor in Montenegro? The food, from rich and varied breakfasts to sumptuous evening meals which would not be out of place in a five-star restaurant? Or the charm and grace of the ship, a stunning 340ft long with elegant sails rippling in the breeze?

Well, all those qualities make this craft stand out and they are no doubt among the long list of reasons that so many of the guests are repeat visitors. But for me, the stand out feature of this type of holiday is the people: the crew and guests.

We had 91 guests on board and some 80 staff covering duties as broad as engineering, sailing, cleaning and the “hotel” staff looking after catering and bar. And they covered more than 20 nations.

Our trip: We sailed 11 days and nights taking in ports in Croatia (Cres, Hvar and Dubrovnik), Montenegro (Kotor), Greece (Corfu and Milos, which was a late substitute for Mykonos due to heavy seas).

Our ship: Star Flyer, a four-masted 170-passenger ship which was by no means full. It is technically a square-rigged barkentine and it resembles a 19th century clipper with polished brass and a classical nautical style. It was captained by Ante, from Dubrovnik who told us of his love of Whitby and its sailing heritage and beer, all in a near-perfect Yorkshire accent. Our craft has 81 cabins – each more spacious than I would ever have imagined.

If you have ever considered cruising but been deterred by the lack of personality among what some call the “great shoeboxes” of the sea, then perhaps clipper sailing is for you. You will not find thousands on board but usually 150 or so. Our lighter load meant it was even better.

I think my partner Lynne and I spoke to everyone. There was Pat and Graham, a retired French teacher and marine engineer from Thorner near Leeds who were celebrating 50 years of marriage; retired businessman Chris and his wife Elizabeth from Putney, who enjoy sailing; Emily and her aunt Linda from Iowa and Washington DC respectively; Gary and Jo from the Midlands; retired military couple Lore and Nate, also from America; and many more.

Some of the crew became friends, too, such as Iwan, from Indonesia whose love for life aboard is matched only by the amount he misses his wife and children. He and his team served up some superlative meals. Mojito jelly with marinated crab; pork satay with wasabi mayonnaise; rum and lime sorbet; marinated entrecote on a bed of sweet peppers. The list went on and on.

Every port of call was stunning but for me the arrival into Kotor was the best. There is a narrow channel with the hills of Montenegro on both sides and ahead.

Apart from a couple of sea days we called at one or another port each day. But unlike most cruises, we didn’t arrive with hundreds or thousands of aged and vividly-clothed invaders. Rather, we were a few dozen adventurers. We came from various countries: most of our party were Americans followed by people from the UK and Germany with a few from Belgium, Holland, Luxembourg and Switzerland.

There are adventures to be had too. My partner Lynne and a few other hardy souls bravely climbed a 65ft rope ladder to the crow’s nest. Me? I went to a cocktail-making class with the chief barman instead. The mast climb is one of the many unique opportunities for passengers who choose to travel on this tall ship – a traditional vessel with high masts.

If you want 24/7 buffets, casinos and theatrical productions, your best bet is probably one of the big ocean liners. But for the chance to steer the ship, hoist a sail and embark on crowd-free tenders to smaller, lesser-known islands – this is the trip for you. Cruise director Axel (Costa Rica) and musician Allan (the Philippines) kept us entertained.

For those who don’t fancy it, there are other ways to get hands-on. I watch as some of the guests shout heave-ho together as they help hoist some of the sails.

The ship is a marvellous place to be. From lying on a sunlounger on the top deck by the seawater pools, to sipping cocktails at the tropical bar, there is plenty to enjoy. Teak decks, mahogany railings and blue carpet with knot designs all make for a traditional feel to the ship’s decor.

How much of the journey is done by sail and how much by engine power is dependent on weather and being able to stick to schedule, but Star Clippers boasts that some journeys can be done by up to 70 per cent sail.

As we marvel from our tenders out at sea at each sail on the ship being raised in the evening sun, the white sails flapping in the breeze between the deep blue of the sea, the majesty of a vessel said to be “reminiscent of the grand age of sail” becomes clear.

Star Flyer and its sister Star Clipper run a series of cruises covering the Caribbean, central America, ocean crossings, the Mediterranean and the Panama and Suez canals. Ours was 11 days and took in Italy, Croatia, Montenegro and Greece and cost from £2,945 each.

www.starclippers.co.uk