'I went to Jamaica to try some of the world's most exclusive and expensive coffee'

Georgina Lawton enjoyed a luxury break in Jamaica enjoying the highlights of Kingston and a trip up into the Blue Mountains, a perfect climate for producing the perfect coffee bean.

As daybreak sifted through the early morning mist and birds chirped in a canopy above me, I sipped on some of the world’s most exclusive (and expensive) coffee at a coffee farm. It’s smooth, chocolatey and devoid of any bitterness.

“It’s made from the Arabica bean which is lower in caffeine so you can have up to five cups a day without getting the jitters,” our guide told me. I’m not in Colombia, or Italy, but the Craighton Estate, in Jamaica’s tranquil Blue Mountains 90 minutes from Kingston.

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When you picture Jamaica, you likely picture polar-white beaches, waters like molten turquoise, rhythmic reggae and the scent of spiced jerk chicken floating from an open drum.

Blue Mountains. Picture  Jamaica Tourist BoardBlue Mountains. Picture  Jamaica Tourist Board
Blue Mountains. Picture Jamaica Tourist Board

That’s all a vital part of a trip to the island of course, but if you venture beyond the beaches to the Blue Mountains, you’ll also find lush rainforest and world-renowned coffee.

It was March, and my trip blended wildlife, relaxation and the perfect cup of Joe. On the way to the estate I stopped for coffee at Cafe Blue which serves coffee, pastries and traditional Jamaican breakfasts alongside a breathtaking view of verdant hills.

Twenty minutes later, up steep and rocky roads lined with towering trees, and I was at the Craighton Estate, a 300-acre 19th century pink house, tucked away in the foothills of mist-hung mountains.

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Stretching across the parishes of St. Andrew, Portland, St. Thomas, and St. Mary in eastern Jamaica, and volcanic in origin but not active, the Blue Mountains have a rich soil that is perfect for growing the Arabica bean.

Sandals resort in Dunn’s River in Ocho RiosSandals resort in Dunn’s River in Ocho Rios
Sandals resort in Dunn’s River in Ocho Rios

The Blue Mountains are a microclimate, with cooler temperatures than the rest of the island. There’s some drizzle but temperatures remained a balmy 23 degrees. Our tour lasted around 30 minutes and was very comprehensive.

I learned that coffee grown between 3,000 and 5,500 feet is classified as Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee, prized for its smooth, mild flavor and chocolate undertones, thanks to the cooler climate and volcanic soil. Below 3,000 feet is Jamaica High Mountain Coffee, which has a bolder, more robust profile due to faster maturation.

Both are premium coffees and after a tasting session, l leave the estate with several bags to bring back home, for prices significantly cheaper than the £35 per 200g I later see online.

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If you’re keen to stay in the Blue Mountains there’s lots to explore beyond the coffee. The Blue Mountain Peak trail is a seven-mile hike to Jamaica’s highest point and on clear days, a glimpse of Cuba.

A dive boat at Sandals resort in Dunn’s River in Ocho RiosA dive boat at Sandals resort in Dunn’s River in Ocho Rios
A dive boat at Sandals resort in Dunn’s River in Ocho Rios

Then the Fairy Glade Trail offers a gentle walk through lush forests near Holywell ideal for spotting hummingbirds.

Closeby to Craighton is the famous Strawberry Hill, an elegant hillside home owned by Island Record founder, Cheis Blackwell, that now serves as a boutique resort and lunch spot.

Famous for its panoramic views as well as the fact it once hosted Bob Marley, a stop-off here pairs well with the nearby coffee tours and hikes.

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Alternatively you can stick to the cities like Kingston or Ocho Rios and travel up to the mountains for a half-day, as I did.

The Blue and John Crow Mountains Picture Jamaica Tourist BoardThe Blue and John Crow Mountains Picture Jamaica Tourist Board
The Blue and John Crow Mountains Picture Jamaica Tourist Board

In Kingston, I was based at The Pegasus in Kingston, a 300-room highrise hotel with a 24-cafe, spa and rota of night-time activities such as a ticketed pool party that was taking place on one Saturday when I was there. It’s the perfect base for exploring the city and feels safe and well-managed.

Despite some negative press in the UK, Kingston is undergoing a cultural resurgence. Exercise caution with your belongings and don’t travel unaccompanied at night, but be sure to check the vibrant downtown area.

Book a one-hour walking art tour with Kingston Creative where you can explore the city’s evolving creative art scene through its ever-expanding murals, birthed in 2018, and art galleries. And be sure to check out the Bob Marley Museum.

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A two-hour tour flew by here, with a passionate guide who shared endless insights into the life and legacy of the reggae legend.

For that all-important fix of crystalline waters in Jamaica head 30 minutes away and base yourself at the all-inclusive couple’s Sandals resort in Dunn’s River in Ocho Rios, a port town on the north coast, two hours from the Blue Mountains.

I stayed at their Dunn’s River property in one of the honeymoon butler suites and found leaving to be an emotional experience. It’s unfettered luxury, drawing a largely American and British crowd, with 12 restaurants, nine bars, one swim-up bar, two pools and two whirlpools.

My honeymoon suite also boasted a swim-up balcony pool, King-size bed, bar stocked full of premium liquor and a personalised butler service. Upon arriving at 7pm, I was warmly greeted with champagne on ice by my butler.

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I was then provided with a personal phone for any requests (available from 7am to 8pm). The next morning, I caved and requested breakfast in bed, which was delivered promptly as I enjoyed the view of the resort and ocean from my swim-up pool; a truly luxurious experience.

The food at Sandals Dunn’s River is varied with sushi, Italian and seafood offerings, but I found the Jamaican cuisine to be somewhat limited.

I eventually found jerk chicken, served at a beach shack (lunch-time only) on the pristine sands where the property is located.

Later, I took part in the watersports offered by the hotel, starting with a 45-minute snorkeling experience where I spotted clownfish and gunnel fish darting through creamy coral. I also enjoyed a kayaking adventure, with the help of the attentive staff who ensured everything went smoothly.

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Whiling away time at an all-inclusive resort is never a challenge; time seems to fly by when everything is taken care of for you. On my final morning, I savoured a cup of Blue Mountain coffee at breakfast and soaked in the ocean breeze for the last time, determined to bring the calm, as well as the coffee, back home with me.

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