Morecambe Bay: 'I visited this historic British seaside town - and had a Baywatch experience'

This ‘Baywatch’ is a guided walk across the vast expanse of Morecambe Bay and is quite a one-off experience. It’s on many folk’s bucket list of ‘must things to do’.

But even if you’re not up for the challenge of a paced, six-mile trek, just waving off the participants, and then driving round the bay to greet them at the finish, is something people love to do.

The cross-bay walk begins by the river-side pier in the genteel coastal town of Arnside, well north of Lancaster and Carnforth, and south west of Kendal in South Lakeland, the quieter fringe of the Lake District.

The walk ends at the western end of Grange-over-Sands’ promenade, just 20 minutes stroll away from the sedate town that overlooks the magnificent Kent Estuary on the northern side of the bay.

Making a weekend of the whole experience, whether walker or watcher, is a great choice.

A couple of night’s stay in either well-appointed Grange, or the charming resort of Arnside, makes the weekend complete, though many walkers come and go in a single day.

You’re in good hands on the walk, which is led by no less than the King’s Guide to the Sands.

It’s an officially-appointed post that has been in existence since the 16th Century when Henry VIII chose a ‘fisherman by foot’ to take travellers, and monks from Cartmel Abbey, across the then-named Lancaster Sands.

Michael Wilson is the 26th appointment, replacing the legendary Cedric Robinson, who spent 55 years taking groups across the often treacherous expanse that is England’s second biggest bay after The Wash.

Walkers have to be aware of the danger from patches of quicksands, and from tides that can come in ‘faster than a galloping horse’, as Cedric used to say.

Naturally, the walks are scheduled for when the tide is fully ‘out’ and at its lowest point. But it is a salutary thought to bear in mind the plight of the Chinese cocklers in 2004, when 23 illegal immigrants were sent to their doom by heartless gang masters, the group being caught out by a fast, incoming tide.

Don’t worry: today, Michael Wilson and his partner Jo are responsible, safety savvy, and experienced.

Morecambe Bay has a summer run of 20 walks between May and the end of August (www.guideoversands.co.uk), and last year, £1.2 million was raised for the numerous charities which took part.

Up to 500 walkers can be present, which is why there is a specified number of marshals helping the King’s Guide. His deep knowledge of the bay comes from his activities as a fisherman by foot or by tractor, no boats being involved in harvesting the now-diminishing catches of shrimp, cockles and flat fish.

Depending on the cross-bay route chosen by the guide during his Friday and Saturday morning’s recce, it’s usually between three and four hours across, and just four minutes back on the coast-hugging train journey from Grange to Arnside (www.thetrainline.com).

That in itself is a short but wonderful experience across the beautifully-proportioned Arnside viaduct, following your unfolding walk across the tidal flats.

Whether you’re out there in the bay, or watching from the shore, you’re bound to activate the five senses. The sight of the vast sandscape, the shimmering waters and the surrounding fells and mountains, are all to be savoured.

From Yorkshire’s Ingleborough and the Lancashire fells in the east; to Alfred Wainwright’s ‘Elephant Country’ further north; to the foothills of the Old Man of Coniston in the west.

Sound-wise, the haunting call of oyster catchers and curlews takes some beating; the taste of the sea salt-laden wind adds to the pleasure; the touch of a sand ridges and water on the feet is ever-present, for those who choose to go bare foot; and the smell of unpolluted fresh air is not to be missed.

The routes across the sands are marked out by what guide Cedric called ‘brobs’, which are laurel branches stuck deep into the sands at the time when the safe passage is established during the recce.

The highlight of the walk comes at the half-way point when everyone crosses the River Kent together, the move being orchestrated by the King’s Guide. Walkers fan out on the river side, with the marshals in place, and the one-off crossing gets under way.

The water depth is usually from just above the knee, and it can be chilly, with the waters coming down from the nearby mountain catchment area, including Hellvellyn.

However, everyone finds it exciting and exhilarating, though you can find softer patches underfoot, which is where the alert marshals come in. Some pet dogs love to swim, while others love to carried. And it doesn’t always depend on size!

The home straight, due north by the side of the river, brings you to a grassy fringe, which can be muddy and slippy after heavy rain. Time to put on the old trainers or sandals after a barefoot experience on the sands.

Then it’s off to Grange on the promenade, past the renovated open air pool, which was saved from demolition, with the ultimate aim of restoring it one day as a swimming pool.

A couple of cafes beckon en route, though many prefer to eat at the popular Hazelmere down by the station.

A short drive or taxi ride will take you to the Uplands Hotel, above Grange and a short hop from historic Cartmel, home of Cumbrian sticky toffee pudding (uplandscartmel.co.uk). Comforting and comfortable, and a welcoming place to stay.

Alternatively, go back to Arnside to perhaps stay at the seafront, family-run pub (fightingcocksarnside.co.uk) or to have excellent fish and chips (arnsidechipshop.co.uk) at the popular Arnside chippy before your drive home - tired but happy at your achievement.

www.guideoversands.co.uk