Travel review: A five-star escape on the Douro through Porto
The glittering, sunlit Douro River is dotted with small yachts, motor cruisers, tourist launches and other craft, creating a picture-postcard setting, backed by one of the six famous bridges. On some European rivers, continuous hot, dry weather can become an issue, particularly for tourist river cruises.
Because of this, many holidaymakers have been disappointed to have their trips cancelled or postponed this season. However, because the Douro has 16 tributaries constantly feeding the water level, it never presents a problem.
Our state-of-the-art, five-star ship awaits in Porto. Riviera Travel’s newest ship is the princess of Portugal’s Douro, and guests can expect to be treated like royalty. Launched in 2025, the elegant Riviera Rose is an 80-metre, floating luxury hotel. Built specifically to accommodate the twists and turns of the Douro, she has four decks with a lift and 58 cabins, which accommodate up to 116 passengers.
My spacious, middle-deck cabin is tastefully furnished with a full-width, full-height sliding window and a French-style balcony affording wonderful views of the ever-changing scenery in the heart of the spectacular Douro Valley. There’s plenty of storage space, a comfortable double bed, a mini fridge, Smart TV, air conditioning and an expertly fitted, contemporary shower room with a free-standing porcelain basin resting on a marble top. A tiny, wrapped chocolate square is left on the bed each night. I save them for my grandchildren, but I eat them all myself as soon as I get home.
Riviera has been voted ‘Best Value Cruise’ by Which? for 14 years. I’m on the Highlights of the Douro Valley and Salamanca cruise. As one of only four solo travellers on board, I’m finding it quite easy to make friends. However, Riviera does offer a variety of solo river cruises.
Ninety per cent of passengers are from the UK and in the 60-plus age group. One of our adventurers is a sprightly, smiling 90-year-old. Everyone looks forward to mealtimes in the delightful main restaurant. Breakfast is buffet style with lots of choice and an option to order from the menu. At lunchtime, choose from such things as burgers, fresh salads and fish, and in the evening, expect a four-course, fine dining a la carte selection of carefully designed dishes. On the Chef’s Dinner evening, the Beef Wellington is sublime. We dine al fresco in the Rio restaurant, which hosts the on-deck barbecue and seafood buffet on a warm, starry night.
The Riviera Rose glides along the river silently, apart from the sound of the bow slicing through the rippling water. On deck I read or take in the glorious scenery. Olives, almonds and grapes are cultivated on the lush green, hand-built, 12th-century terraces. Sometimes I soak up some rays to work on the tan and then cool off in the splash pool.
There are six locks to encounter on the Douro, including the Carrapatelo, the tallest in Europe, which lifts vessels an incredible 35 metres, or 115 feet, between levels. Watching a ship rise inside the massive concrete chamber is an unforgettable experience. In the wheelhouse, Captain Manuel, 37, tells me that navigation of the narrow locks is challenging and requires extreme concentration. At times there is only around 30 centimetres/12 inches clearance between the sides of the ship and the lock wall. Look, but don't touch.
The highlight of our cruise is a visit to the atmospheric Salamanca, considered by many to be the most beautiful city in Spain. It's the oldest university city and is known as La Dorada, or the Golden One, because of the honey-coloured sandstone of the Renaissance architecture. The cafes surrounding the magnificent plaza are a great spot for people-watching. At the casino, we tuck in to a buffet lunch while a troupe of authentic, fiery flamenco dancers in tight frilled dresses stamp, shout, twirl and strut. We clap to the rhythm of this display.
Another stop is the delightful little village of Pinhao, where the train station is the main attraction. The huge, black-edged, circular clock reminds me of Lancashire's Carnforth station clock, featured in the famous 1945 film, Brief Encounter. The amazing blue and white ceramic azulejo tiled wall panels tell the story of the area’s wine-making history and heritage. The magical Mateus Palace, completed in 1740, is the most photographed private building in Portugal. The impressive facade and chapel, mirror-reflected in the pool at the front, make a must-have photo. This picture became the much-recognised label image of Mateus Rose wine, which was popular but not cool in the 1970s/80s. Other wines claimed favour for decades, but today Mateus Rose, Portugal’s best seller, is making a comeback. The formal palace gardens, known as a mini Versailles, include a cedar tunnel and topiary.
Castelo Rodrigo is considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. Wander the steep, walled, cobbled streets of this charming, historic village, which is 900 metres above sea level and dates back to medieval times. It has a well-preserved Gothic castle, a convent, a church, a clock tower and one or two artisan shops. Taste the locally produced almonds, crunchy and coated in chocolate, honey, coconut, ginger and other flavourings. Other excursions include a tour of Porto, port wine tasting, plus visits to two quintas for lunch, wine tasting and dinner.
We’re always back well in time for dinner when our ship’s panoramic atrium lounge and bar come to life at night. Genial cruise director Mario devises a quiz for us on one evening, and on another night we listen to a traditional, soulful Portuguese Fado performance. Resident vocalist/guitarist Artur entertains while passengers enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail and later a drink and a chat. On karaoke night, there’s a queue to get at the microphone. I sing, or try to sing, It’s My Party (and I’ll Cry If I Want To) with apologies to Lesley Gore 1963. I think my attempt almost brings Artur to tears.