Trentino: The Italian region unknown to tourists that is bristling with beauty

The Trentino region of Italy may be unknown to many tourists but Ralph Blackburn discovered a territory bristling with beauty, not to mention some fine wine and delicious food.

As I sit down for my first dinner in Trentino, a cork goes pop and sparkling wine is poured around the table. It’s not prosecco we’re drinking, the most popular type of fizz in the world, but instead Italy’s answer to Champagne - Trento DOC.

This is only made in Trentino using the traditional method of creating sparkling wine, and the result is a beautifully light, dry glass of fizz.

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The wine has been made just 200 metres from our hotel, which may seem extraordinary, but it’s no surprise in Trentino.

12th century mountain-top hotel Castel Pergine12th century mountain-top hotel Castel Pergine
12th century mountain-top hotel Castel Pergine

The veranda of my room at the Hotel Cristallo (139 euro a night with breakfast) opens out onto a vineyard, and the valley is filled with wineries

I’m staying in Levico Terme, a historic spa town on the shores of the Lago di Levico, where the sparkling wine is stored to rest.

The town is a spectacular location, surrounded by the jagged snow-capped peaks of the Lagorai mountain range.

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It’s in the south-east of Trentino, one of Italy’s autonomous provinces, which sits towards the top of the boot.

Francesca Zeni foraging nettles, raspberries and strawberries with the Brenta Dolomites in the backgroundFrancesca Zeni foraging nettles, raspberries and strawberries with the Brenta Dolomites in the background
Francesca Zeni foraging nettles, raspberries and strawberries with the Brenta Dolomites in the background

It stretches from Lake Garda in the south to the spectacular Brenta Dolomites in the north.

It’s very popular for sport - skiing and snowboarding in the winter and hiking and cycling in the warmer months.

The area has a strong German influence, as it borders Sud Tyrol to the north.

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Both provinces initially formed part of the Austro-Hungarian empire, but both were given to Italy in 1919 after the First World War. In Sud Tyrol, German is still the first language.

I’m taken to Castel Ivano - a 12th century castle with spectacular views across the Lagorai range.

This is where the Terre del Lagorai, one of the 65 wineries in the region which make Trento DOC, holds its tastings (23 euro per person).

Stefano Dalledonne tells me that wine was made in the region to give to soldiers in the First and Second World Wars.

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Terre del Lagorai grows grapes between 300 to 650 metres altitude.

The warmer day temperatures preserve the freshness and acidity, while the cooler nights give energy to the plants which is important for sparkling wine.

After several more glasses of wine that I’m used to before midday, a hearty lunch is needed and I’m taken to Al Legno - a typical mountain tavern.

The highlight of the meal is a Trentino classic of strangolapreti, large gnocchi-like pasta cooked with sage and butter.

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It’s named after the gluttonous priests in the provincial capital Trento, who used to guzzle so much food they would choke.

The next day, the sun has appeared and I’m greeted with the postcard view of the mountains surrounding the hotel.

We’re travelling to the Valle dei Mocheni, home of the Mòcheni people who speak one of the three minority languages of Trentino.

They originally emigrated from Germany in the 13th century to dig for silver and bronze, and around 2,000 people still speak the language.

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As our van winds up the mountain the signs are translated from Italian into Mòcheno.

The other official languages of the region are Cimbra and Ladin.

There are only 200 native Cimbra speakers left, which is similar to a South Bavarian dialect.

We meet Francesca Zeni and Anna Perdibon 1,200 metres up in the mountains to go foraging (12 euro each or free with Valsugana guest card).

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Next to us is a beautiful Alpine meadow and in the distance the Brenta Dolomites sparkle.

Francesca starts by casually plucking some nettles, showing no signs of discomfort. She gives us a foraging pep talk: “You should only pick what you need and no more. Nature is abundant but you have to respect it.”

And slightly worryingly she adds: “There are lots of poisonous plants and you can die if you pick the wrong plant.”

However I feel confident remaining alive with Francesca, she has been a forager and a mountain guide for more than 10 years.

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We pick wild raspberries and strawberries to make a series of delicious pestos at a picnic table.

On a sunny afternoon, we cycle through the valley to Borgo Valsugana.

It’s known as the Venice of Trentino and has been named as one of the prettiest towns in Italy.

I can immediately see why, as bars and restaurants overhang the Brenta River.

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It looks like the perfect spot for an aperitivo, but we don’t have time as we’re heading to Castel Pergine.

The 12th century castle sits alone on a hilltop with stunning views across the valley.

Guests can stay in the four towers which sit on the ramparts for 139 euro a night, as well as old fashioned and modern rooms in the main building, from the end of March to the middle of October.

Even if you’re not a guest you can take a stroll around the castle through the gardens and book in for dinner

The inner garden, where vines spread up the walls, is the ideal place for one final glass of Trento DOC.

www.visittrentino.info

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