The Yorkshire moorland walk that ends at a historic country pub
As the weather gets colder, there is something tempting about warm pubs after windy moorland walks.
When I was younger, my family used to hike across Ilkley Moor to Dick Hudsons, a historic country pub.
Last weekend, we decided to retrace our steps – and treat ourselves to a meal once we got there.
The 6km route cuts across dramatic moorland scenery, and the pub is a cosy endpoint.
Located on an old packhorse route between Ilkley and Bingley, it takes its name from Mr Dick Hudson, who ran the inn between 1850 and 1878. Since then, it has become a local landmark, and was even recognised with a blue tourist plaque in 2011.
Starting at the Cow and Calf Rocks, it was surprisingly quiet for 11am on a Sunday. There were plenty of parking spaces - a telltale sign that summer is over. Only a handful of people drifted towards Ilkley Quarry, with just one person attempting to climb the Calf.
The route to Dick Hudsons is unmarked, so I’m reliant on my mum’s memory. We climb the grassy slopes to the left of Ilkley Quarry, continuing straight along a grass track and crossing Backstone Beck.
Autumn might have arrived, but the moor is still clinging to the last of its purple heathers. September marks the end of the season, and I find myself stopping to take pictures and point out the prettiest clusters.
We pass the Poetry Seat, hidden along an overgrown path of bracken, and join the Dales Way Link. This is an especially scenic section: a flagged stone pathway leading through endless views of heather.
Shortly afterwards, we reach the Twelve Apostles Stone Circle, a mysterious ring believed to date back to the Bronze Age.
The gateway to Bingley Moor appears sooner than expected. “This is quicker than when you were younger,” my mum laughs.
Heading down a grassy slope, the dark outline of Dick Hudsons appears on the horizon. For only a 1.5-hour walk, it feels like we’ve experienced so much.
Inside Dick Hudsons, the atmosphere is “traditionally Yorkshire,” with exposed wooden beams and flagged stone flooring. Sitting down for a warm latte and hearty salmon salad is the perfect finale.
It has been years since I walked this local route, but I’ll be much quicker to return.