Malbec: Wine writer Christine Austin reveals her top 10 Malbecs from across the world

With the barbecue season hopefully not too far away on our shores, Christine Austin scours South America and South Africa in search of her top ten Malbecs.

How was Malbec Day for you? Or maybe you didn’t realise that last Wednesday was designated as Malbec Day. This is some silly idea from marketing people that all grapes should have special days allocated to them, in the hope that everyone will go out and buy a bottle of wine made from that grape.

I apologise for also missing international Tannat Day, and Mulled Wine Day – which surprisingly isn’t in that last week before Christmas. However, I don’t think I will bother to celebrate Prokupac Day (it is a Serbian grape) but I am looking forward to International Maratheftiko Day. This is a historic Cypriot grape and after my two recent trips to this fabulous island, I might have to go back and sample a few bottles in the winter sunshine.

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But Malbec is different. The shelves are full of good and sometimes great Malbecs, and this grape has emerged in the last few decades to fill the flavour gap between structured Cabernet Sauvignons and juicy Shiraz.

The Uco Valley, Argentina, where warm days and col nights produce wonderful winesThe Uco Valley, Argentina, where warm days and col nights produce wonderful wines
The Uco Valley, Argentina, where warm days and col nights produce wonderful wines

Softer and friendlier than most Cabernets, the plum and mulberry fruit of Malbec sits around most savoury and meaty dishes with ease, so it works for winter casseroles and even chunk of cheese. But then it rolls quite happily into barbecue time.

It has enough flavour to stand up to a steak straight off the grill but can easily be quaffed by that group of partners and husbands who gather around the designated chef, watching sausages slowly burn.

Malbec is a grape that has earned its airmiles. Originally from Cahors in France where it used to make dark, tannic chewy wines, it escaped to Bordeaux where a tiny percentage gave structure and depth to a blend.

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It was taken to Argentina by a French agronomist in the mid-1800’s and settled in well. This was the period when Argentina wanted to appear European. There are some parts of Buenos Aires that could be mistaken for Paris.

Malbec performed well in the warm, sunny vineyards of Mendoza in the western part of this vast country, fed by water running straight off the Andes and now Argentina has the most extensive Malbec vineyards in the world.

The foothills of these magnificent mountains provide unique sites to develop fabulous grapes. By planting at different altitudes, grapes ripen with varying levels of fruit, flavour and acidity. Now most estates are digging down deeper in the soil, analysing its components to find the best match for each type of vine as they improve quality in their wines.

Malbec comes at all prices and qualities, from Chile, South Africa, Australia, even from France. Here is my top ten selection.

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Estevez Chilean Malbec 2022, Central Valley, Chile, Aldi £5.79: A great value wine, with simple, supple blackcurrant and blackberry fruit and a soft, easy style.

Domaine Bousquet Finca Lalande Malbec 2021, Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina, Waitrose down from £10.99 to £7.99 until 7 May: Made from 100% organic grapes, grown at 1200 metres altitude in the foothills of the Andes, this Malbec has intense aromas and flavours of blueberries and blackberries, dusted with black pepper with a seam of freshness running through it. Made by French winemaker Jean Bousquet who bought a tract of uncultivated land in the Gualtallary Valley and planted it with Malbec. This estate is one of the leaders in organic and environmental work in Mendoza. This is a terrific offer price, so buy enough to last through the barbecue season.

Irresistible Bío Bío Malbec 2022, Chile, Co-op down from £8.50 to £8 until April 23: From the cool southern region of Bío Bío this Malbec has damson and raspberry fruit with sweet spice and enough structure to stand up to lamb or beef.

Taste the Difference Fairtrade Morador Malbec 2021, Argentina, Sainsbury £9.75: Full of deep, damson and mulberry fruit with soft tannins and enough power to cope with a plate of sausages. This wine goes on special offer from next Wednesday, down to £8. Stock up.

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Journey’s End The Pioneer 2022, Coastal Region, South Africa, Majestic £9.99 on a mix six deal: This comes from vineyards that get the full blast of the ocean breeze in the Cape which allows daytime ripening for the grapes, but at night the cool temperatures keep flavours fresh. Lighter in style than many Argentinian Malbecs, this delivers fresh blueberry and raspberry fruit with a clean, rounded style. Light enough to take on a pizza.

Dona Paula Single Vineyard El Alto Malbec, 2021, Luyan de Cuyo, Argentina, Waitrose down from £15.99 to £11.99 until 7 May: Altitude plays a part in making this wine so good, allowing good daytime sunshine, then chilly nights. From a single vineyard 1000 metres up in the mountains, this has a floral note of violets followed by velvety plum and forest fruit flavours, edge with mocha and tobacco.

Extra Special Malbec 2021, Uco Valley, Argentina, Asda £12: The Uco Valley is one of the best places to grow vines in Argentina, located in the foothills of the Andes at around 1200 metres altitude. This means that the grapes benefit from warm sunshine in the day, but at night the temperatures are distinctly chilly. This wine is made by Bodegas Norton, a well-respected producer and it has dark, concentrated black fruits with more structure than most.

Zuccardi Malbec Serie A 2021, Valle de Uco, Argentina, Tesco £14: Several years ago, José Alberto Zuccardi presented his wines at The York Festival of Food and Drink, and he loved Yorkshire and the people he met. Now his son, Sebastián has taken over the reins and he is a world-class winemaker. I love the balance in this wine, with fruit, structure and a clarity of style, with just enough pepper on the finish.

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Malbado Malbec 2022, Luján de Cuyo, Argentina, Asda £15: From a ‘discovered’ plot of vines in Luján de Cuyo which had been neglected for decades. Radical cutting back revitalised the vines to give a concentrated wine with rich, mulberry and blackberry flavours and hints of coffee and chocolate.

Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2019, Uco Valley, Argentina, Field and Fawcett £26.80: A sensational wine, made by Argentina’s first female winemaker, who packs blueberries and black cherry fruit, layered with hints of mocha and mint into this perfectly balanced wine. Push the boat out for Sunday lunch.

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