The White Lion in Cray - a fabulous old Dales pub with a classical style that may have the makings of a destination dining experience

Two miles up the road in Litton is the smartly whitewashed 17th century Queens Arms, bathed in strong sunshine with one or two brave folk having lunch outside, looking out over the beautiful dale. Inside, the fire roars and there’s the gentle babble of folk enjoying an ‘award-winning’ pie and a pint (see Pub of the Week).

We double back to Kettlewell and into the Blue Bell Inn, proud past winner of the Sunday Times Pub of the Year with a phenomenal range of cask ales and a good looking menu. Sadly we’re the only ones in so the atmosphere is a bit lacking, but the bar is pleasant and with a wood stove the size of a small car it’s properly cosy. The music might need turning down a bit is all I’m saying.

Before we hit Cray there’s one more visit – the Fox & Hounds at Starbotton, which you might have seen me raving about on these pages recently. There’s a lovely team in the kitchen and behind the bar, great ales and a fab pub grub menu – and the obligatory open fire, horse brasses and copper kettles.

I’d forgotten how stunning the road up to Cray is; dramatic hillsides threaded with limestone walls and dotted with wild-eyed sheep, with the infant River Wharfe tumbling alongside. We watch buzzards wheeling above and hear the plaintive cry of curlews as we get out of the car.

The White Lion is such a handsome, sturdy pub; it’s thought to date back to the 14th century when it was a drover’s inn. It’s a welcome sight as skies darken and the temperature plummets.

There are new owners and judiciously, not much has been done to chic it up. The high-ceilinged bar with huge stone flags on the floor and monumental fireplace haven’t been touched and it’s still incredibly atmospheric; drovers would feel at home and take a pew with a pint and the dog by the fire, as long it was at lunchtime because in the evening the Lion becomes a fine dining restaurant with rooms rather than a pub.

A bold move perhaps but the menu suggests they’ve done their homework – it’s succinct but there are enough plates on there to pique interest: poached salmon fillet, Olivier salad, dressed Swiss chard and beetroot velouté sits with ham hock terrine, piccalilli and artisan bread.

It’s a while since I’ve seen Coquilles Saint-Jacques on a menu, and the baked scallops are in a fine creamy white wine Muscadet sauce topped with Gruyère mash. It’s classically cooked and tastes terrific, but the presentation is a bit odd, with an unnecessary mountain of rocket on the plate. A slightly clumsy chicken Ceasar croquette is the size of a cricket ball, but again full of flavour with white anchovies, pancetta and parmesan; it could have done with another minute in the oven as it’s a bit cool in the centre.

Mains include a very good looking (I watched one arriving at the next table – my mouth was watering) Irish Beef Fillet. The menu tells me it’s aged 32 days, and served with sweet potato dauphinoise, Porcini mushroom Duxelles, pancetta crisp and Madeira jus. But coming to our table are a fillet of halibut and the Kleftiko ‘special’. I’m an absolute sucker for this traditional Greek dish – basically a leg of lamb in a parcel with lemon and garlic and slow cooked until you can eat the meat with a spoon. It’s all of those things with smooth mash, sweet baby carrots and a pool of something called a Napoli tomato cassoulet – a sort of tomato sauce. The lamb falls off the bone and if it was a degree or two hotter would be the best comfort food on a night like this.

The halibut dish is a bit of a misstep – I’m reluctant to pull it apart completely but the skin under chunky batons of carrot and courgette is flabby – the fish was cooked well but it wasn’t a pretty dish. Or warm enough. You might see a pattern emerging.

Desserts divided us entirely; apple tart tatin was absolutely text book perfect in every way but the ‘trio of: crème brulee, panna cotta and lemon posset’ was hopeless. Two out of the three were okay but you could stand you spoon up in the posset. It was the texture of wall paper paste and would probably have done the job.

Are there two chefs in the kitchen, one who can cook and one who is learning? That’s how it felt.

It’s unlike me to be picky but hot food is a basic requirement and half our dinner wasn’t. I want this fabulous old pub to work; all the flavours are there, the menu is interesting, the style is classical and with a bit more attention to detail there’s the makings of a destination dining experience, which I guess is what they’re aiming for.

Dinner for two with wine: £150

The White Lion at Cray, Cray, Near Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 5JB t: 01756 760262

https://www.bestpubinthedales.co.uk/