Tennants Auctioneers showcases sale of beautiful rare 1920s flapper dresses and vintage fashion finds
How wonderful it would be if, for an hour, even just a minute, we could step through a door and find ourselves back in 1923, a century ago, surrounded by flapper girls and elegant beaus, headbands and feathers, turbans, tails and opera coats.
But, in a way, fashion is that door, opening to reveal the stories of peoples, society and world events. The Roaring Twenties were a particularly fascinating era and a dropped-waist, just-below-the-knee, sleeveless, fluid dress tells quite a story. The First World War was over and life would never go back to the way it had been.
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Hide Ad“In the ’20s, fashion completely relaxed, having had the buttoned-up-to-the-neck, fitted dresses of the Edwardian times, and full-length dresses,” says Sarah White, costume and fashion specialist at Tennants Auctioneers in Leyburn, North Yorkshire.
“It was a loosening of everything, of morals, and everything went – the hair was chopped, the waists were dropped, there were loose-fitting dresses.
“They put fun into it and enjoyment to show what was going on in society.”
Tennants is preparing for a major sale of costume, accessories and textiles next Saturday, including several 1920s period fashions from the collection of a private Yorkshire enthusiast who has been gathering vintage and antique designs for more than 30 years.
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Hide Ad“She’s very clever,” says Sarah. “She would get a hat and then she would source a pair of gloves to match in the same colour, so you have the whole ensemble.
“It’s a great collection of social history because it shows such good examples of different styles. It's not every day that we get one. They are such lovely quality items, bought very well, and she’s got a really good eye.
“We have got two flapper dresses in the sale which are brilliant examples, and there are some lovely evening and opera coats, which were again loose-fitting and would fit over their dresses – some are silk, some are wool, but it is a style that everybody embraced because they were reacting to the war and being free.”
Some pieces are from the US and some from Paris, as well as from the UK. Some were bespoke, and some already made and then altered to fit. “At the time, they didn’t have shops as we have today, where they would go in and pop it on,” Sarah says. “A lot of the clothes at that time were tailor-made or made by seamstresses. People were going across to Paris and buying items.”
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Hide AdThe preserved gowns, dresses and accessories in the collection are all items that would have been worn by the upper and upper middle classes while attending events and socialising.
“It wasn't something which the lower classes would do because they didn't have the chance to dress up,” says Sarah. “They didn't live that life.”
Fashion changes again for the 1930s. “Then it becomes all fluid and bias-cut and a completely different shape."
Tennants sells to buyers all over the world, online or bidding in person, and offers free valuations. It is best to call first and then perhaps send over images. Auctioneers are able to give a good indication of how much your collection is likely to achieve, based on the current market.
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Hide AdThe luxury and designer market is one of the fastest-growing sectors of the auction world, with statement fashion pieces, sold for a fraction of their price when new.
Anyone can bid for and buy period clothing such as this, but mainly there are three categories of buyer – private buyers who buy to wear, collectors, and dealers who buy to sell on.
Sarah adds: “We get an awful lot of private buyers who will come and try them on in the viewing days, which is lovely, and it’s nice to think that they are going to get worn, hopefully, or put in a collection and admired.
“Also we get buyers for movies, people who do costumes for films and TV, so they are always on the lookout for certain periods, whatever they have got in the pipeline at the time.
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Hide Ad“Buyers can come from across the world, especially for the accessories – you don't often see those coming up for sale, and they are perfect for films because you need those authentic costume accessories.”
What should people who want to invest in vintage fashion look out for?
“I wish I had a magic ball,” says Sarah. “My personal opinion is that you buy because you like something, and if you get enjoyment out of it, whether it’s just looking at it or wearing it, then you have got your money’s worth and, when you come to sell it, it doesn’t matter what you get.”
Next weekend’s sale will feature millinery, handbags, gloves and hat boxes. It includes the John Newall Collection of Guna Molas – decorative cloth panels that form part of the traditional costume of the Guna people, indigenous to Panama and Colombia – and pieces from the 17th century to the present day, including quilts, dolls, teddy bears, fine household linens, samplers, embroidery, sewing accessories and lace, as well as antique, period and modern costume and world textiles.
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Hide Ad“The market at the moment is so changeable,” says Sarah. “The 1970s market, which, three years ago was pretty poor, has become a lot stronger.
"The early 20th century at the moment is a really strong market, from the 1920s through to the late ’40s and ’50s, is the strongest but I really feel you should buy because you like something.”
The sale of Costume, Accessories & Textiles is at Tennants in Leyburn will start at 10.30am on February 11. Viewing from Wednesday. Tennants.co.uk.