Distance lends enchantment

TASTE OF THE ANDES: A French grape in a high altitude South American context has proved a winner, as Christine Austin reports.

Our love affair with Malbec shows no signs of abating. France may have had this grape for centuries but it was only when Argentina started to send us Malbecs from the high altitude vineyards of Mendoza did we fall for its ripe, lush, blackberry fruit.

Malbec is now leading a dramatic rise in wine sales from Argentina, not just at the bargain end of the shelves but in higher priced wines too.

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This grape was very much in evidence at Lord’s Cricket Ground last week when the combined force of Argentinian wine producers set up their stalls to show the UK wine trade and buyers their latest vintages and blends. On show were hundreds of wines, most of them red and with Malbec very much in evidence, but with plenty of other grapes and styles too.

Argentina is a huge country, with much of the population crowded around Buenos Aires, but a two-hour flight west of the capital takes you to Mendoza, a desert area in the lee of the Andes. These snow-capped mountains block out most of the rain and so irrigation channels, dug centuries ago, bring cool, clear melt-water down to the vineyards.

Mendoza is the main grape-growing region of Argentina and the secret to its pure-tasting fruit is the clear air and the altitude of the vineyards. Malbec is Argentina’s signature grape. Originally from south west France where it is known as Côt, it was brought over by immigrant workers in the late 19th century. But it has settled into the sunshine of Mendoza and produces much deeper, black fruit flavours than it ever did in France.

It is not only good on its own, but it blends well, sharing the limelight with the usual grapes such as Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is also adaptable enough to blend with some of Europe’s more distinctive varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Tempranillo and Petit Verdot creating a style of wine which is instantly recognisable as South American, but with a streak of the northern hemisphere.

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One of the biggest success stories comes from Hervé and Diane Joyaux, originally from Bordeaux who established a vineyard and winery at Vistalba within sight of the Andes. Their wines have always been traditional, well-made and elegant but two years ago they moved up a gear and created a brand which captures the lush fruit of the grape without losing its structure and finesse.

This brand, known as Viñalba is now one of the most successful in Argentina and has collected a fistful of medals and trophies. You can find these wines in almost all retail outlets, from Marks and Spencer to the Co-op, with different blends creating distinctly different wines. My favourites include the deep, dark, damson fruit of Viñalba Reserva Cabernet Malbec and Petit Verdot 2010 (Majestic £9.99 on multibuy) and the mulberry and violet-scented Viñalba Malbec Touriga Nacional 2009 blend (Majestic £8.99 on multibuy). Look out for the trophy-winning Viñalba Patagonian Cabernet Merlot 2009 when it arrives at the Co-op in a few weeks, priced at £8.99.

The wines of Pascual Toso also showed well at the tasting. This is a long-established company, set up a century ago by a grape grower from Piedmont in Italy. Now with extensive vineyards in Las Barrancas, their Californian consultant winemaker Paul Hobbs has driven quality up and although the wines still reflect the true depth and intensity of Argentinian sunshine they also have a deft, international style. Try Pascual Toso Malbec 2008 (£8.75 Field and Fawcett 01904 489073) for ripe mulberry fruit with soft, rounded tannins and then trade up to the Reserve Malbec 2008 (£12.90 Field and Fawcett) for terrific intensity of damson fruit balanced by elegant, structuring tannins. This is a wine to team with winter casseroles, roasts and steak.

A rather more recent arrival in Argentina is José Manuel Ortega from Spain who runs O. Fournier based in the Uco Valley, a region that was bare earth 20 years ago and is now planted almost continuously with vines. Fairly high in altitude, with the Andes on the horizon, this region has warm, sunny days but night temperatures plunge as soon as the sun goes down.

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This allows the vines to rest overnight and retain acidity in the grapes which translate as crisp, vibrant flavours in the wine, perfectly ripe with balance, persistence and concentration. As the vines have aged the O. Fournier wines have developed more concentration and complexity. I really enjoyed B Crux 2006, named after the Southern Cross stars and made with just a splash of Malbec bolstering a Tempranillo and Merlot blend. Packed full of redcurrant and raspberry fruit, edged with chocolate and spice this wine needs the first, crusty slice from a good joint of beef to accompany it. Find it at The Halifax Wine Company, for £14.50 (www.halifaxwinecompany.com).

There are plenty of good-value Malbecs on the supermarket shelves that are well worth trying as autumn gets a grip. Tesco’s Finest range, which seems to be taking quality rather more seriously these days has a good Argentina Malbec 2009 at £6.49 a bottle. This comes from Catena Zapata, a winery that looks like it has been lifted straight from a Mayan temple and the flavours are robust with layers of blackberry and blueberry fruit. Also good is Marks and Spencer’s Altos del Condor 2009 at £7.99.

Made by another leading winery, Trapiche it has a touch more structure and finesse. If you are new to Malbec then a good place to start is with Asda’s Extra Special Malbec (about £6.48) which is packed with dark damson fruit and enough warming alcohol to help keep temperatures up without switching on the central heating system.