Restaurant Review: Orchid Restaurant, Harrogate

The woman answering the phone at The Orchid in Harrogate is efficient and pleasant.
Sushi and sashimi  set, an assortment of mixed Nigiri and Maki sushi and sashimiSushi and sashimi  set, an assortment of mixed Nigiri and Maki sushi and sashimi
Sushi and sashimi set, an assortment of mixed Nigiri and Maki sushi and sashimi

She is also patient because I had to change my reservation three times and she bore with me while I untangled other arrangements forgotten about. She is also very clear, “I want the table back at 9pm” she states firmly and without any embarrassment. Essentially, these were the terms for which I would be allowed to eat there. She repeated this several times to make sure I understood.

I get it, I do. Turning tables around can make a significant difference to the bottom line; engendering feelings of being a valued and cherished customer it does not and I don’t much like it. This harsh policy aside, The Orchid has managed to successfully draw in the Harrogate crowds for years. To date it is still the only restaurant I have ever visited where on a girly night out with 10 friends we were silenced by steamed sea bass. The only sound around the table while eating were gasps of delight. No mean feat.

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I liked the Orchid when the kitchen was open, as watching the speed and dexterity of the chefs was pure theatre. The restaurant is now a more sophisticated affair, but there are plenty of smiles and questions are answered competently, if economically.

The Pan-Asian menu at the Orchid, however, does sizzle. It effortlessly glides from country to country, scooping up Thailand, Malaysia, Japan, Hong Kong, Korea, China, Singapore, the Philippines and Indonesia. There’s no fusion or confusion; each is autonomous and together create quite a tour de force.

Everyone is catered for whether through the regular menu (starters, soups, seafood and fish, poultry, meat, veggies, noodles and rice) and should you not find something on there (which I doubt) there’s are specials as well.

We started with drinks in the stylish bar upstairs, giving us a chance to scrutinise the extensive menu. I was acutely aware though, that each sip, and discussion on the merits of the Tom Ka Gai over the Sui Yuk, was eating into our precious 120 minutes. Our waiter had his eye on the clock too. After a discreet period he graciously suggested we may want make our way downstairs. We did so, swiftly.

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Up first, two different styles of prawns. Phoenix Prawns were hefty, meaty little beasts encrusted in crispy noodles with a spiky sweet and sour sauce for dipping. They were so attractive, I suspected I may have a fight on my hands for them.

The second dish of Wasabi prawns looked less appealing as the prawns were smaller, tighter and slightly adrift in a thick, pale green sauce. On taste though, these were the winners for me.

The Japanese horseradish Wasabi is both seductive and deceptive. The green colour belies the heat it contains, surely something this hot should be flaming red to match the fierce heat? I always approach with caution but there was no need here. The Wasabi was tempered with mayonnaise which created more of a prickle, than a full-on hit and still allowed the prawn flavour to come through.

Thai Neua Pad Prik Broccoli from the specials menu came as a sizeable serving of stir fried crispy beef with broccoli, complete with a strong waft of pepper, onion, Galangal and lime juice to tease the taste buds into action. I’d like to say I too enjoy these tempting flavours but when I surfaced from poring over my personal choice it had gone. I took this as a testament of approval. The only down note was the garlic was a little burnt which gave a faint acrid flavour.

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My choice of a Buddha Feast, was essentially three different vegetable dishes from Thailand, the Philippines and Sichuan respectively. Shitake, Button and Cloud Ear mushrooms spiced with a chili and peppercorn dressing on a bed of bean sprouts (aka a Sichuan Ma La Gu) was a delightful medley of both taste and texture in one dish.

Thai Gaeng Paenang Pak was pretty much a textbook vegetable red curry, all spicy, spiky and hot, Sadly, Calabasa butternut sauce with green beans and pineapple left me cold. The texture was fine but a cloying sickly, sweet pineapple flavour didn’t work for me. I can’t comment whether this was good or bad, it may well be classic Philippine dish and capably cooked but is one I would not order again.

Puddings are generally less appealing in Asian food but I cannot recommend the sample plate of desserts at the Orchid enough. We both eyed up the tiny, vanilla custard tart which frankly I could have wolfed all to myself. As I could the fruity mango pudding and coconut ice but we shared and next time will get a plate each as they were so enjoyable.

After the pudding we realised our time was all but up. The restaurant was packed, not an empty table to be seen with people waiting in the bar. No-one asked us to leave but there was no reason to stay either. We had eaten really, really well, service was courteous if a little perfunctory and the bill a respectable £90 for two with four glasses of wine.

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The Orchid does what is does exceptionally well, yet I felt a touch disenchanted with the whole experience.

Orchid Restaurant, 28 Swan Road, Harrogate, HG1 2SE. Tel: 01423 560425. Lunch: Sunday to Friday, 12-2pm; dinner, daily, 6-10pm.