The Ship Inn, Saltburn: The 'characterful old boozer' where you can drink in an endless vista of the North Sea

To say that this characterful old boozer has had a makeover is a bit of an understatement.

It’s a while since I’ve been; gone are the sticky carpets and dark wood furniture, horse brasses and leatherette benches – instead, glitzy wallpaper, polished wood floors and chairs upholstered in what I can only call quirky fabric.

I recall a hullabaloo as some of the good folk of Saltburn took to Facebook to complain that they’d ‘lost our pub!’

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I don’t remember it being so big either – it seems twice the size, and it turns out Greene King has indeed extended into the buildings at the side of the original pub, once fisherman’s cottages.

The Ship Inn in SaltburnThe Ship Inn in Saltburn
The Ship Inn in Saltburn

Outside space is huge too, with a ‘fish & chip shed’ for take outs in the summer, and a further bar for grownups and, I’m guessing, sundowners involving bottles of fizz.

I’m pleased to say the snug, in the oldest part of the original pub still exists and is proper cosy on a chilly winter day, with a wood stove and fabulous views over the churning sea.

Back in the day when Old Saltburn was a hamlet, before the Victorians came along and built a seaside holiday resort, it’s believed there were four inns - the Seagull, the Dolphin, the Nimrod and The Ship.

They must have stood next to one another.

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The Grade II listed Ship, which dates back to the late 1500s is the only survivor and like a lot of Inns on the Yorkshire coast was at the centre of the smuggling trade, its most famous landlord being John Andrew, known locally as the 'King of Smugglers'.

Today the bounty is food and beer – namely their own brew, The Ship Pale Ale from Greene King, and of course it being the time of year Rocking Rudolph bitter, and from Hardys and Hansons there’s Olde Trip.

The range of gins is vast, and the wine list is decent too. Food is, as you’d expect, of the pub grub variety, not innovative or exciting but priced well.

I’ll be back for cod & chips on the decking next summer to enjoy some ‘live music’ and ‘the possibility of dancing’.

Regardless, I’ll be drinking in that endless vista over the North Sea.

The Ship Inn, Saltburn Road, Saltburn-by-the-Sea TS13 1HF

Welcome 5/5

Atmosphere 4/5

Drinks choice 4/5

Prices5/5

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