Country weekend look or commuter-core? Autumn/winter 2024 AW24 fashion trends from ME+EM, Burberry, Whistles, Albaray and more

From country weekend looks to bold shoulders and commuter-core, Yorkshire Post Fashion Editor Stephanie Smith picks out the key autumn/winter 2024 fashion trends, and suggests how, where and why to wear them.

It’s all back to work as fashion steps up to take the slack after seasons of post-pandemic dress-down thinking.

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New workwear is wearable but undeniably smart, signalling perhaps that a return to the office and in-person meetings is long overdue for many of us. Yes, we do miss those water-cooler moments, the real-life exchange of advice and ideas, the gossip (especially the gossip).

The Quiet Luxury trend is still very much to the fore, and in workwear terms this means suits and mix-and-match separates, pinstripes included, with easy shapes, especially relaxed blazers and wide-leg trousers, as seen at Prada, Tom Ford and Victoria Beckham. On the high street, check out Whistles.

PLAYING RED: Ruby red collared shirt, oversized boxy jumper and voluminous pleated maxi skirt, all for ME+EM AW24 collection.PLAYING RED: Ruby red collared shirt, oversized boxy jumper and voluminous pleated maxi skirt, all for ME+EM AW24 collection.
PLAYING RED: Ruby red collared shirt, oversized boxy jumper and voluminous pleated maxi skirt, all for ME+EM AW24 collection.

The tie (as in neck tie) is being played about with - a lost symbol of corporate power, apparently - and it might be fun to see who has a go at wearing them, how and with what. Can a tie be worn unironically outside of a wedding? We shall see.

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Skirt suits are also on the rise, even worn with trainers, or sneakers, channeling the iconic look sported by Melanie Griffith in the 1988 New York-based classic film Working Girl. Remember Tess changing from her sneakers into court shoes while sitting at her desk, watched by her dodgy male co-workers? Well, now it’s a thing - some even call it “Commuter-core”.

Vogue opines that “real” fashion is the unifying message of autumn/winter 2024 (as opposed to fantastical fashion), citing Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy comment that he was “interested in making a monument out of the everyday”.

So, the trench is a key autumn look, as always, but it’s been souped up, seen with trimmings or given volume, as on the runway at The Row.

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TEXTURE AND TWEED: Brown bomber jacket with fleece collar and tweed kilted maxi skirt from Burberry Winter 2024 collection. Photo: Filippo Fior / GorunwayTEXTURE AND TWEED: Brown bomber jacket with fleece collar and tweed kilted maxi skirt from Burberry Winter 2024 collection. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway
TEXTURE AND TWEED: Brown bomber jacket with fleece collar and tweed kilted maxi skirt from Burberry Winter 2024 collection. Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway

Outerwear in general takes centre stage and we are seeing textural coats, with faux furs and teddy fabrics, shearling and feathers, all adding warmth and texture with more than a dash of glamour with lots of volume and statement stepping-out style. Duvet days go outdoors too with swaddling coats that cosset and protect.

There is also the British Country Weekend trend to consider, mixing heritage plaids and tweeds with argyle and Aran knits (very Claudia Winkleman in The Traitors UK - and a trend that can only gain more and more traction now that series three is on its way, series four has been commissioned and there is to be a celebrity version, oh my).

In a creatively, chaotically, beautiful take, York designer Matty Bovan showcased his AW 2024/25 collection with a film, Hello My Old Talismanic, shot evocatively at Burton Agnes Hall, near Driffield, modelling distressed tweeds and checks mixed with knits, floral brocades and painted fabrics and summoning the spirit of Katherine Anne Griffith, who died in 1620 and is rumoured to haunt the Queen’s state bedroom.

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Wintry and dark florals are a trend that allows us to bloom long into the chillier months (although when is it not chilly these days?) and they can be updated by mixing in with those checks and tartans, again seen at Matty Bovan.

EASY PINSTRIPES: Loose-fitting pinstripe suit jacket and wede-leg trousers from Whistles AW24 collection.EASY PINSTRIPES: Loose-fitting pinstripe suit jacket and wede-leg trousers from Whistles AW24 collection.
EASY PINSTRIPES: Loose-fitting pinstripe suit jacket and wede-leg trousers from Whistles AW24 collection.

Meanwhile, leopard print is yet another fashion classic that achieves key trend status for AW24, seen on the runways at Zimmermann, Celine and Versace, among many others. Leopard trousers, leopard blouses, floaty boho leopard dresses, you name it, you run with it.

And then there is red, rich and sophisticated, not just for Christmas but for adding a striking note of unignorable colour, even head to toe (see ME+EM).

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Blush pink is a softer option, having evolved from Barbie-core to somethig immensely flattering, wearable and luxurious, seen on the catwalks at Stella McCartney, Giambattista Valli and Elie Saab. Team blush with creams, olive green and russet tones for the perfect autumn palette.

Camouflage is another print that gets a make-over for AW24, with designers giving it experimental, expressionist and exhibitionist treatments, taking the traditional camouflage pattern to another level.

LEOPARD LUXE: Velvet leopard top, £75, and pants, £99, from Albaray.LEOPARD LUXE: Velvet leopard top, £75, and pants, £99, from Albaray.
LEOPARD LUXE: Velvet leopard top, £75, and pants, £99, from Albaray.

The bold and big shoulder is the silhouette of the season, whether wide and structured in a wing-like manner or rounded, even with voluminous raglan sleeves), as seen at AllSaints with its leather bombers). Reminiscent of the 1980s, again, it’s all about playing with power as we negotiate our way around the new world, where we almost personify our own office, command our own space and authority. See Stella McCartney and Edward Crutchley, a designer from the Yorkshire Dales achieving well-deserved acclaim on the international fashion stage.

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Statement collars and high necks are more structural clothing details that will pretty much characterise the season, and there’s quite a bit of asymmetry going on, especially knits and cape styles (see Barbour and John Lewis).

And look out also for balloon skirt shapes for a touch of everyday drama. And swoon-worthy long kilted skirts (Burberry).

Ski jumpers are another trend for autumn and winter, although it remains to be seen how this will play out in real life - cute, non?

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Back to suits, and the Smoking Jacket is an AW24 thing, sparking a new sleek and androgynous looks for dressing up for evening events, evoking the spirit of Marlene Dietrich (and why wouldn’t you?) and Jay Gatsby. Look out too for satin-lapel jackets and cummerbunds.

TWEED DREAMS: Riotous country weekend style from York-based designer Matty Bovan. Photo: Christine Ratcliff; Director & Styling & Model: Matty Bovan @babbym; Location: Agnes Burton Hall; Creative Consultant: Katie Grand @kegrand; Tweed by Linton Tweeds @lintontweeds; Jewellery by Plum Bovan for Matty Bovan Studio @begoniapeterson; Camera: Mandi Lennard @mandilennard, Olivia Cunliffe-Lister @oliviacunliffelister, Plum Bovan @begoniapeterson, Christine Ratcliff @christineratcliff5, Jonathan Scott @jonathan.scott_; Make up by Matty Bovan using Lisa Eldridge Beauty @lisaeldridgemakeupTWEED DREAMS: Riotous country weekend style from York-based designer Matty Bovan. Photo: Christine Ratcliff; Director & Styling & Model: Matty Bovan @babbym; Location: Agnes Burton Hall; Creative Consultant: Katie Grand @kegrand; Tweed by Linton Tweeds @lintontweeds; Jewellery by Plum Bovan for Matty Bovan Studio @begoniapeterson; Camera: Mandi Lennard @mandilennard, Olivia Cunliffe-Lister @oliviacunliffelister, Plum Bovan @begoniapeterson, Christine Ratcliff @christineratcliff5, Jonathan Scott @jonathan.scott_; Make up by Matty Bovan using Lisa Eldridge Beauty @lisaeldridgemakeup
TWEED DREAMS: Riotous country weekend style from York-based designer Matty Bovan. Photo: Christine Ratcliff; Director & Styling & Model: Matty Bovan @babbym; Location: Agnes Burton Hall; Creative Consultant: Katie Grand @kegrand; Tweed by Linton Tweeds @lintontweeds; Jewellery by Plum Bovan for Matty Bovan Studio @begoniapeterson; Camera: Mandi Lennard @mandilennard, Olivia Cunliffe-Lister @oliviacunliffelister, Plum Bovan @begoniapeterson, Christine Ratcliff @christineratcliff5, Jonathan Scott @jonathan.scott_; Make up by Matty Bovan using Lisa Eldridge Beauty @lisaeldridgemakeup

For all those not about to buy into new suiting and power ties, there is a nod back, yet again, to the 1970s with the ubiquitous boho trend, but there is more than a splash of luxury and sophistication going on (see Chanel, Chloe and Fendi), with shearling, chiffon blouses, aviator sunglasses and flowing dresses, to team with over-the-knee boots, topped off with a trench coat.

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Sparkle and tinsel trimmings, to wear for day and night, are going to be adding luxe touches and eye-catching details - expected, certainly as we move towards the festive season, but what’s not to love?

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