I went to Leeds Christmas Market - I can’t understand the critics

Christmas market season feels official now York and Leeds Christmas Markets are underway. Ahead of Harrogate and Barnsley’s Christmas markets opening later this week, we went to the first weekend of Leeds Christmas Market.

With over 60 wooden chalets, fairground rides, an ice rink and two bars, Leeds Christmas Market kicked off last Friday.

As ever I’d heard mixed reviews about Leeds Christmas Market which stretches throughout the city centre.

At the heart of the city - on City Square, Millennium Square and Victoria Gardens - you’ll find the main festive market stalls including a range of seasonal food alongside Christmas rides.

Leeds Christmas Markets, Millennium Squareplaceholder image
Leeds Christmas Markets, Millennium Square | Sophie Mei Lan

Attractions including the Carousel, the Big Wheel and Ice Cube ice-skating are on offer, which is on from November 21 to December 31.

We headed here first. I’ll be honest as it was pouring down with rain by the time we arrived in the city centre, we bypassed the funfair rides and the big wheel, much to my toddler’s disdain.

Instead, we went straight to Millenium Square, the home of Leeds City Museum, which is one of my favourite free places to visit in Leeds.

An illuminated arch welcomes you into the main market where there are prettily decorated chalets of all shapes and sizes selling food and drink.

Santa meets and greets in the Ranch Bar.placeholder image
Santa meets and greets in the Ranch Bar. | Steve Riding

The market is clearly laid out, and perhaps it wasn’t heaving due to the weather and visiting on a Sunday.

As soon as we stepped foot into the main area the aroma of hot custard and crumble lingered in the air.

My eye was immediately caught by Farsley Fire and Smoke’s converted BBQ train. A man stood in the rain merrily barbequing chicken while the customers queued up at the chalet counter next to their ‘live cooking station,’ to order everything from beef brisket to loaded fries and pulled pork.

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Farsley Fire & Smoke | Sophie Mei Lan

This reminded me about the magic of Christmas Markets like this which champion local traders. It’s the atmosphere, the interactions and the live cooking which make this much more of a memorable experience than grabbing something quick from a chain restaurant.

We stumbled on a stall selling nuts coated in a variety of sweet and caramelised toppings, all roasted in copper pans and served from inside a giant 200 year old Australian wine barrel.placeholder image
We stumbled on a stall selling nuts coated in a variety of sweet and caramelised toppings, all roasted in copper pans and served from inside a giant 200 year old Australian wine barrel. | Sophie Mei Lan

We then stumbled on a stall selling nuts coated in a variety of sweet and caramelised toppings, all roasted in copper pans and served from inside a giant 200 year old Australian wine barrel.

Next up, our noses were led by the smell of garlic. The Garlic Mushroom Co is a family run business based in Doncaster who have brought this Bavarian tradition to the UK.

Creamy mushrooms is a classic German dish known as Rahmschwammerl (in Bavarian dialect) or Bayerische Schwammerlbrühe. It’s similar to a ragou. You can buy it here as a portion on its own or with freshly made garlic bread.

The Garlic Mushrooms Coplaceholder image
The Garlic Mushrooms Co | Sophie Mei Lan

Walking around these Christmas chalets really did feel like a walk around the world’s culinary Christmas traditions.

Opposite Jimmy Macs UK were serving up another showstopping dish. Bubbling cheese scraped over crispy garlic potatoes.

Their cheese wheels, raclettes, are shaved onto roast potatoes, served with cold meats and gherkins.

Jimmy Macs UK were serving up another showstopping dish. Bubbling cheese scraped over crispy garlic potatoes. 
Their cheese wheels, raclettes, are shaved onto roast potatoes, served with cold meats and gherkins.placeholder image
Jimmy Macs UK were serving up another showstopping dish. Bubbling cheese scraped over crispy garlic potatoes. Their cheese wheels, raclettes, are shaved onto roast potatoes, served with cold meats and gherkins. | Sophie Mei Lan

Next to them was a poutine stall selling Quebec style french fries and cheese curds topped with a hot gravy.

When chatting to the stall holders, as this is one of the parts I love about Christmas Markets, one said that customers had complained about too many food stalls.

I loved the length and breadth of Leeds Christmas Markets as there’s something for everyone. Not to mention it gets people exp[loring the city centre.

Discover a curated selection of independent artists, makers, and food producers at the Little Bird Christmas Market. Located in the heart of Leeds, this market is the perfect place to find one-of-a-kind gifts and support local talent. From intricate jewellery to beautiful ceramics, you're sure to find something special for everyone on your list. 📍 Bond Court, Leeds, LS1 2JZplaceholder image
Discover a curated selection of independent artists, makers, and food producers at the Little Bird Christmas Market. Located in the heart of Leeds, this market is the perfect place to find one-of-a-kind gifts and support local talent. From intricate jewellery to beautiful ceramics, you're sure to find something special for everyone on your list. 📍 Bond Court, Leeds, LS1 2JZ | Provided

At Bond Court, there’s an artisan market by Little Bird Markets who are hosting a local makers market from Thursday to Sunday from November 20 to December 21.

There’s also market stalls inside Trinity Leeds and on Briggate as well as the chance to have your photo taken on a weekend at Victoria Leeds in the Snowland Storybook.

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